tbalderm
New Member
Can anyone tell me where the blower motor resistor is located? My fan is staying on high no matter what I do. Unfortunately, I don't have a service manual YET, but want to get this fixed.
Location of Heater blower resistor
- Thread starter tbalderm
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pjtoledo
'ol man in the SHO
Hi speed integrated blower controller, its a small circuit module, located in the air plenum, behind the glove box. No resistors in these, transistors do all the work. They get corroded, common failure is blower stuck on hi.
Perry Toledo,Ohio
Perry Toledo,Ohio
tbalderm
New Member
Thanks. I guess that was what I was looking for since I don't have a manual yet. Is it expensive? And does the dash have to come out or just the glove box? I also need to replace my interior temp sensor, it stays way too hot inside unless I put the setting on 60 for full cool.
AutoXSHO
SHO Member
It's easy to get out with the glove box flipped down, as I recall.
I repaired mine. It's basically a bunch of SMT resistors and power transistors. The transistors aren't the problem, it's the RTV that's used on the circuitboard and the fact that the board is constantly exposed to humidity from the blower vents. Maybe this is why Ford has the A/C run on automatic mode? Never thought of that before...
John V
I repaired mine. It's basically a bunch of SMT resistors and power transistors. The transistors aren't the problem, it's the RTV that's used on the circuitboard and the fact that the board is constantly exposed to humidity from the blower vents. Maybe this is why Ford has the A/C run on automatic mode? Never thought of that before...
John V
[email protected]
New Member
Heheheh, who told you that you had a blower motor resistor?
A dealership about 20 miles from me (not the one I use now), which also happens to be an SVT dealer, so supposedly their parts/service/sales departments are supposed to be more knowledgable than the rest, told me that I needed the resistor, too.
Nope. Resistor is for Taurii without the EATC.
The Blower Speed Control, or Variable Blower Speed Control is what you want. If you buy it new, it's $190 or so.
Given that this unit failing is a pretty common thing on aged SHO's, I don't know if I'd trust a used one, which is why I bought a brand new one.
As for repairing it, ****, if someone posts an explanation on how to do that, I'll repair my old one for a spare!
Installation is REAL easy.
If you have a Haynes/Chilton's manual, they sho exactly how to do it.
It's behind the glovebox, held in by two screws. You've got to disconnect it's wire-harnes, and pop the two screws, slide it out, put the new one in.
------------------
1993 Ultra Red ATX
http://sho.kythri.net
A dealership about 20 miles from me (not the one I use now), which also happens to be an SVT dealer, so supposedly their parts/service/sales departments are supposed to be more knowledgable than the rest, told me that I needed the resistor, too.
Nope. Resistor is for Taurii without the EATC.
The Blower Speed Control, or Variable Blower Speed Control is what you want. If you buy it new, it's $190 or so.
Given that this unit failing is a pretty common thing on aged SHO's, I don't know if I'd trust a used one, which is why I bought a brand new one.
As for repairing it, ****, if someone posts an explanation on how to do that, I'll repair my old one for a spare!
Installation is REAL easy.
If you have a Haynes/Chilton's manual, they sho exactly how to do it.
It's behind the glovebox, held in by two screws. You've got to disconnect it's wire-harnes, and pop the two screws, slide it out, put the new one in.
------------------
1993 Ultra Red ATX
http://sho.kythri.net
tbalderm
New Member
No one told me that it had a resistor. I just assumed it did based on the 50-60 cars I worked on that had the same problem that needed a resistor.
AutoXSHO-
What exactly did you do to FIX the controller? I would really prefer to fix mine rather than replace it.
AutoXSHO-
What exactly did you do to FIX the controller? I would really prefer to fix mine rather than replace it.
[email protected]
New Member
Yeah, I'd like to know too...maybe I can fix my old one and sell it!
AutoXSHO
SHO Member
Hm.
It's not a simple fix because there's not one thing that fails. However I'll tell you what I did. Bear in mind this is from memory; I did this about a year ago and have been fine since.
When you remove the blower control module from the vent, you should strip it down to the circuitboard. You only need to see the component side. The board will probably be covered in:
1) A red transparent RTV sealant
2) Varying degrees of mold.
If the circuitboard isn't rotted too badly, the problem is caused by corroded traces or bad SMT components. You can read the values of the SMT components off their faces and replace the ones that are open circuited (mine had many like this - they don't last too long underwater). There aren't many of these resistors, which is fortunate.
Next, ohm out each trace with a meter and see if there are any that are open circuited. If so, replace them with a section of thin wire.
After you do the repair and verify that the board works, coat the whole thing in RTV again (the spray kind for electronics).
Sorry this is so vague... I've only done one of these, but I do have a 100% success rate
. If someone has one that they're willing to sacrifice, I'll do a repair on it and take pictures of the process? (You get it back when I'm done.)
John V
It's not a simple fix because there's not one thing that fails. However I'll tell you what I did. Bear in mind this is from memory; I did this about a year ago and have been fine since.
When you remove the blower control module from the vent, you should strip it down to the circuitboard. You only need to see the component side. The board will probably be covered in:
1) A red transparent RTV sealant
2) Varying degrees of mold.
If the circuitboard isn't rotted too badly, the problem is caused by corroded traces or bad SMT components. You can read the values of the SMT components off their faces and replace the ones that are open circuited (mine had many like this - they don't last too long underwater). There aren't many of these resistors, which is fortunate.
Next, ohm out each trace with a meter and see if there are any that are open circuited. If so, replace them with a section of thin wire.
After you do the repair and verify that the board works, coat the whole thing in RTV again (the spray kind for electronics).
Sorry this is so vague... I've only done one of these, but I do have a 100% success rate
John V
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