KYB vs. Monroe?

[Bob Gervais]

No problemo! Let me dig and see if I can find a couple of references for you.

http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/mod...e=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=110

Decent write-up that has been edited over the years. Main things to remember are to PB Blaster the **** out of the pinch bolts, and use some heat on them when you remove them (if yours are rusty). Breaking a pinch bolt isn't the end of the world, but it sure does suck balls.

Having a long pry bar and a helper will speed things along, and make your life easier as well.

 

[NP SHO]

That's awesome. Thanks again Bob!

 

[Bob Gervais]

That's awesome. Thanks again Bob!

You're very welcome! Once you get started, you'll see that it's pretty easy to do. Undercar work is my least favorite thing to do, and even my lazy ass doesn't mind doing struts.

 

[NP SHO]

Finally acquired all the parts for my suspension upgrade. Here's what I've got:

Monroe SensaTrac struts
Intrax springs
Monroe rear strut mounts
Ingalls adjustable front strut mounts with new strut bearings
New metal swaybar endlinks (to replace the old plastic ones)
New polyurethane rear strut rod bushings
New front strut rod bushings (rubber I think)
New pinch bolts for all 4 struts

So here are my questions:

Bob - you asked me previously if I was only doing the struts/mounts/springs or if I was replacing more as it would change the order of how to do the replacement. I added the strut rod bushings and endlinks. Does this change anything from the link you gave me earlier? (Thanks again by the way)

My rear strut rod bushings are polyurethane, but the fronts I have are rubber (I think). I didn't realize they were different when I bought them. Is this going to cause any issues? I don't track my car at all, maybe a little "spirited" driving occasionally. I've already blown my budget out of the water so I don't want to spend more on the polyurethane bushings if I don't have to, but I also don't want to kick myself in the ass later if it's going to make a huge difference.

Any final suggestions or things to look for before I dig into it this weekend? I plan on assembling the struts/springs/mounts ahead of time to save time and aggravation. Thanks again for all of the input and advice you guys have given during my whole decision making process with this project. I don't know what I would do without all of you guys!




Also - not to sound TOTALLY stupid, but how can I identify which end of the spring gets mounted top/bottom?


Special thanks to:
Will (shonuffmine) for all the advice about the cut Moogs (even though I didn't go with them)
Bob G. for the info on how to R&R
Evan (91PDXmocha) for the advice and pics of the SensaTrac/Intrax combo

 

[platoribs]

Babs is a good boy!

 

[NP SHO]

Babs is a good boy!

Yeah he is. His advice has helped me out alot with this project.

 

[Bob Gervais]

Thanks guys, I've learned a lot over the years, with the help of this forum, Kirk, Chris, and a lot of other people.

Rubber front strut rod bushings won't cause you any problems.

To do the front strut rod bushings, the lower control arm needs to come off. This may or may not be a pain in the ass, depending on how long they've been on there, and how rusty the car is. It'll differ from the instructions in the links I gave you, because you'll be taking the pinch bolt out for the ball joint, so you can remove the LCA.

Here's how I'd do it:

Remove tie rod from spindle (18mm nut)

Remove strut rod nut at the LCA (24mm or 15/16)

Loosen LCA bushing bolt at the subframe (18 and 24mm)

Remove ball joint pinch bolt (should also be 18mm)

Use a long pry bar to separate the ball joint/LCA from the knuckle. If you're not replacing LCAs use caution so you don't mess up the ball joint. You may need to spread out the ball joint hole in the knuckle with a chisel or screwdriver to get the ball joint out. (you'll see what I mean once you get there)

Take out the LCA bushing bolt at the subframe, and pry the LCA out of the subframe.

The LCA will now be mounted only to the strut rod. To remove it, I've found that turning and pulling the LCA at the same time will help to break the bond between the rubber and the strut rod. In badly rusted/stuck situations, you can use a hammer on the opposite side of the control arm to bang it off. Be careful though, that you don't hit other important stuff under there.

The front of the strut rod is pretty self explanatory, you'll see once you get under there.

If you have the means, heat is your friend for some of this stuff. Strut rod nuts can be a pain, as well as the LCA bushing bolt at the subframe. It also helps at the strut pinch bolts at the knuckles.

I'm PM'ing you my cell, in case you need some help or moral support.

 

[NP SHO]

So I've made SOME progress, not as far along as I would like to be. So far I have gotten the rear passenger's strut assembly out. In the process of putting together the replacement assembly. My spring compressors are crap so I'm running out after dinner to pick up a new set. The rear driver's side is almost out. The only thing left is that damn pinch bolt. Going to pick up a small tank of Mapp gas while I'm out because the propane isn't getting it hot enough. As long as there are no more complications, I should have the rear passenger's assembly ready to go in before the evening is done. Tomorrow morning I'll install that and then heat the crap out of the pinch bolt on the driver's side. Still have to do the fronts tomorrow too but it seems everyone says the fronts are much easier. Figured I'd tackle the difficult ones first and get them out of the way. Things would have gone so much faster if the pinch bolts and strut rod nuts weren't such a pain in the ass. I actually cracked one of my impact sockets on the driver's pinch bolt! lol

 

[Art5]

I an doing my rears today and going MOnroe way. I was thinking if I could cut 5mm off my rear strut mout rubber to lower back of the car this way. Has anyone ever done this?

 

[NP SHO]

Finally got the rear passenger's side done with the exception of torquing everything down. Going to Tractor Supply to pick up a small tank of Mapp gas to torch the driver's rear pinch bolt. Hopefully I can make more progress today than yesterday. Good luck with your rears Art. They've been a pain in the ass for me!

 

[Art5]

Finally got the rear passenger's side done with the exception of torquing everything down. Going to Tractor Supply to pick up a small tank of Mapp gas to torch the driver's rear pinch bolt. Hopefully I can make more progress today than yesterday. Good luck with your rears Art. They've been a pain in the ass for me!

Thank you. I hope it wouldn't take me as much of a headache as it took you, since my suspension was done about 50000 miles ago, but who knows, this is still a ford car. Last summer it took me almost a week to get 3 bolts out to replace rear control arms, so nothing else would suprise me anymore. Hopefully after all this work we could meet up, like we planned.

 

[NP SHO]

I definitely plan on having this whole project done by the end of the day tomorrow. I think my biggest problem is that it looks like this is the original suspension. If yours was off 50000 miles ago I would think it would be easier than what I'm going through. lol. I'm definitely planning on meeting up with everyone. We just have to come up with a place and time...

 

[NP SHO]

Damn pinch bolt broke! It was coming slow and steady and then all of a sudden... SNAP! I don't have a tap or any special tools like that. I DO still have the pinch bolt from the passenger's side (replacing them with new bolts). Can I try to chase it from the threaded side and push the broken bolt out? FML!

 

[Art5]

Damn pinch bolt broke! It was coming slow and steady and then all of a sudden... SNAP! I don't have a tap or any special tools like that. I DO still have the pinch bolt from the passenger's side (replacing them with new bolts). Can I try to chase it from the threaded side and push the broken bolt out? FML!

I just got one side off, but the biggest problem I had is getting the whole assembley out of a spindle. I think in my case i should take the whole spindle off together with the strut.
Are you talking about that bolt that holds the strut or control arm?

 

[Art5]

Are you changing to MOnroe as well? It your strut compressed too?

 

[NP SHO]

I'm talking about the bolt at the back of the spindle that squeezes the spindle around the base of the strut. Broke off when I had it about half way out. Getting ready to commence drilling in just a few minutes. I'm replacing the original Motorcraft Struts and springs with Monroe SensaTrac struts and Intrax springs. I'm doing all the bushings, swaybar endlinks, tie rod ends, etc. while I'm at it.

 

[Art5]

I'm talking about the bolt at the back of the spindle that squeezes the spindle around the base of the strut. Broke off when I had it about half way out. Getting ready to commence drilling in just a few minutes. I'm replacing the original Motorcraft Struts and springs with Monroe SensaTrac struts and Intrax springs. I'm doing all the bushings, swaybar endlinks, tie rod ends, etc. while I'm at it.

OH, I see. I think that you may as well cut it off and drill the rest out. I don't think there is a better way to do it. I thought to poweder coat my springs, but the guy is not picking up, so I'm off to the store now, to buy paint and poly-clear coat. I did the rest of the suspension parts this last summer, so everything else is a lot easier for me.

 

[RonPorter]

Damn pinch bolt broke! It was coming slow and steady and then all of a sudden... SNAP! I don't have a tap or any special tools like that. I DO still have the pinch bolt from the passenger's side (replacing them with new bolts). Can I try to chase it from the threaded side and push the broken bolt out? FML!

Get some new GOOD drill bits, drill it out, and replace it with a Grade 8 bolt, washer, and nut. PITA, but doable. BTDT too many times!!!!

 

[Art5]

and make sure you put a lot of grease on it, before putting it in. They sell very good drill bits at harware store specially for drilling metal. better get those and use WD-40 when drilling and have patience.

 

[NP SHO]

Started drilling yesterday. Made some progress but still have a ways to go. Hoping to get the driver's rear taken care of today. The fronts I'm going to push off until next weekend. Hoping that the fronts are much easier than the rears have been. Someone please tell me that it's all worth it in the end. lol

Oh and thanks Bob for the advice and moral support this weekend.