just found out my subframe is cracked

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spazmoid

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So i just found out that the right rear frame that surrounds the subframe mount is cracked on one side. The metals just thin from rust. Does anyone have a somewhat easy remedy for this? I'm figuring i have to make up a new plate to reinforce it and weld that in.... Its still seemly strong enough to drive on it, and i have been for probably months now. I put some stress on it with a jack too and it didnt open the crack any more or anything but i know i have to either take care of it quick or sell the car...
 

hawkeye18

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And you might want to apply some POR-15 or equivalent rust preventative to try to keep this from happening in the future. Rust sucks.
 

Mr Anonymous

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My personal recommendation is to replace the subframe, but if you're a competent welder and can repair it so it's as strong or stronger than factory then you can probably get some serviceable life out of it, but usually when those ears rot out there are other weakened areas nearby that run the risk of failure.
 

gbizzle27

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I had this happen to both sides of my subframe. I took our the bushing, cut the entire back part of the subframe off. I was lucky enough to have a parts car where the rear of the subframe is in good shape, but all bent up and broke in the front. So i welded that in and plated it all around the outside. Has been working good for the past year with that fix.
 

SHO_DOODmorrris

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I don't recall if there are better weight reductions but i know you are able to use the gen 3 knuckles which use a bolt on wheel bearing vs the gen1/2 press in wheel bearings. also i believe the steering and suspension geometry's are improved.
 

firebat45

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The weight reduction is from the aluminum knuckle instead of an iron one, I don't think the subframe is any lighter/heavier.
 
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