Jet-Hot coated PPE downpipes heat test.

[bpd1151]

So, I generally try my best to differentiate between mere opinion, versus factual information.

I also enjoy other's opinions as well, but I think it's important to ensure topics stay on, well...... on topic. It helps in the search function overall, and compartmentalizes the info accordingly. Making it more useful and relevant (to each/all), rather than expounding further off topic. In this case here, the continued discussion(s) of heat tape, versus the JH coating(s).

All that said, desiring more info on the JET-HOT product(s), I reached out to my contact today at JH, asked them a question relevant to their products, process/durability, etc. My contact then forwarded it off to one of their engineers, so I had to wait for a reply.

As such, the below is a quote, taken directly from the engineer, on the tests results, etc.

"Unfortunately there's a lot of misconceptions floating around based on partially understandings of the thermodynamics at play within Jet-Hot coatings, there is a lot more to it than getting the surface temp as low as possible, especially when part life and maintenance are considered.

Energy (heat) is transferred by 3 primary mechanisms "convection", "conduction", and "radiation". Jet-Hot's various coatings and finishes eg.1300 polish, 2000offroad, and 2500ultra, all manage undesired heat transfer by controlling "conduction" and "radiation", each coating has a unique strengths managing on mechanism or another.

The "2500 ultra extreme" insulates the most giving the lowest surface temp, where the 1300 classic polish leverages it's ultra low emissivity surface reducing radiation heat transfer (even with a higher surface temp than the 2500) this reduces the total heat transfer the most at ~56%, this is further evidenced by EGTs staying ~50°F hotter at the end of 2' collectors.

If you are trying to ascertain exact surface temp only using an IR gun for some reason, it should be a lab quality gun adjusted to the proper emissivity setting for the materials being measured (cast / stainless steel / mild steel / aluminum / paint etc), again surface temp is not, by itself, representative of the total heat transfer potential, just the amount of "conduction" that has been prevented.

The ultra low emittance surface of the 1300 polish does in fact reflect infrared energy, as often mentioned, and thus works well for heat shielding, but the IR guns only read IR energy emitted towards the sensor not "reflected" from anything." -----JET-HOT engineering department.

Hope this is of some relevance to those interested in knowing.



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[Ryan Selcer]

DEI Titanium wrap has been my go-to. If you have never wrapped exhaust before, you want to wet the wrap (keep it in a bucket of water as you wrap). This keeps the fibers under control. You will want to wear gloves, it's itchy like fiberglass. Also start wrapping from the furthest point away from the engine going towards the engine. This makes the overlapping edges face the rear of the car. Pull the wrap tight each wrap and overlap half of the last loop. lastly, DEI also makes a silicone spray to help seal up and protect the wrap. The only part of the spray that sucks is you need to cook the wrap onto the pipe first then spray it. So you'd have to wrap it, install the pipe, bring the engine up to temp, cook-off all the water, then uninstall and spray the silicone on.

Hey, if you wanna save the trouble you could get an old stove off CG for like 50 bucks and cook it in there

2010 SHO PP, axle back exhaust, 3 bar MAP, upgraded thermostat, iTSX tuner, 20" summer rims