Just finished the following repairs on the 95 3.2 atx new timing belt and tensioner new cam chains and tensioners, front main, water pump and injectors timiing was set correctly but it still has a loud knock it will idle fine no smoking if you raise the rpms and and let off the tach drops back to about 500 rpms the oil light comes on and the motor dies I was going to move it approx 50 yards to a garage I put it in drive pulled out and it died it would star again fine but when you placed it in gear it had no power in drive or reverse and would die I let it set approx 30 minutes started it back up put it in reverse and backed it back up where it was parked approx 25 feet the oil light came on when I let off of the throtle and it died oil light does not come on when cranking and there is no knocking when it cranks does it need rod bearings I will push it the 50 yards to the garage. The oil is clean and has no debris. Thanks Keith
Is this bad rod breaings
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What was the part number on that "tensioner" you bought from the dealer?
I remember you posting that you repaired the tensioner, do you mean replaced it with a new one?
Sounds like your belt is not being tensioned correct.
You said it smoothes out above 2k rpms, correct?
Do you have a stethascope handy? They are a big help to rule out possibilities and are very cheap to purchase.
I remember you posting that you repaired the tensioner, do you mean replaced it with a new one?
Sounds like your belt is not being tensioned correct.
You said it smoothes out above 2k rpms, correct?
Do you have a stethascope handy? They are a big help to rule out possibilities and are very cheap to purchase.
I did repair the old tensioner but was not feeling good about it so I got a new one from the dealer. it is now a continuing knock at all rps this car set for over a year before I purchased it I was told today that it could be a oil pump problem.
From my understanding, oil pumps on SHO's are quite rare to go out.
You are saying that whatever it is, is stalling the motor.....go check the accessories out, they can cause knocking and if the bearings are beginning to go out, they can put a load on the motor.
If it's not that, I'd have to think it would be a timing issue. Are you sure you replaced the tensioner and not the pulley? What was the part number? Maybe you installed the tensioner incorrect, where there is no tension at all. When reinstalling a new tensioner with a new belt, it is quite hard if you do not know an easy way to press the pulley toward the belt and seat the tensioner in place.
Do you have a stethascope, or have determined where the noise is coming from? Any knocking can echo around the engine bay and that's why it's a good idea to use a stethascope. With a stethascope, you can really find out if it's your bearings by placing it on the oil pan.
You are saying that whatever it is, is stalling the motor.....go check the accessories out, they can cause knocking and if the bearings are beginning to go out, they can put a load on the motor.
If it's not that, I'd have to think it would be a timing issue. Are you sure you replaced the tensioner and not the pulley? What was the part number? Maybe you installed the tensioner incorrect, where there is no tension at all. When reinstalling a new tensioner with a new belt, it is quite hard if you do not know an easy way to press the pulley toward the belt and seat the tensioner in place.
Do you have a stethascope, or have determined where the noise is coming from? Any knocking can echo around the engine bay and that's why it's a good idea to use a stethascope. With a stethascope, you can really find out if it's your bearings by placing it on the oil pan.
Off Road SHO
Moderator
When installing a new belt AND tensioner, the eccentric pulley of the tensioner must be rotated clockwise into the belt to pre-tension the belt a little. This is done because the tensioner itself has very little travel from the pinned to the un-pinned position, maybe 3/8" at the most. If the eccentric pulley is 3/8" away from the belt when you release the allen wrench "pin", you will end up with zero tension on the belt.
They make a special tool to rotate that pulley but you can use two ice picks taped together to do the same thing. The important thing to remember is that the "V" shaped pulley holder must be resting on the ram of the spring tensioner when you rotate the pulley clockwise during the pre-tension. After you have the pulley rotated, tighten the pulley's holding bolt to spec with a torque wrench.
Then when you pull the pin, the spring of the tensioner will put the final amount of pressure on the belt needed to keep it from knocking.
Hope that wasn't too confusing.
Tom
They make a special tool to rotate that pulley but you can use two ice picks taped together to do the same thing. The important thing to remember is that the "V" shaped pulley holder must be resting on the ram of the spring tensioner when you rotate the pulley clockwise during the pre-tension. After you have the pulley rotated, tighten the pulley's holding bolt to spec with a torque wrench.
Then when you pull the pin, the spring of the tensioner will put the final amount of pressure on the belt needed to keep it from knocking.
Hope that wasn't too confusing.
Tom
I've always read not to mess with the actual pulley and bolt, just the tensioner. I did this and had the pulley pressed up again the belt very tight, then placed the tensioner in the correct way...no problems, but it was very tight to get it in place, then I pulled the pin.
I will check all of the things mentioned this week and post my findings I was told saturday by a mechanic that if it was rod bearings the crank was destroyed to get a new engine but I will have to see for myself before I do. All thoughts welcome.
Thanks
Thanks
It wouldn't hurt to pull the y-pipe, starter, and oil pan off to take a look at the bearings and/or replace them. RCM has the kit for $67 shipped. If you just peek in there, you will need some RTV to re-seal the oil pan.
Yes, keep us update. To check you timing belt, you can pull off the crossover tube, part of the intake, and then remove the upper timing belt cover. When you remove it, reinstall the crossover tube and start the motor. See if your belt is jumping around in there...if it is, use a socket extension to press the belt down and see if the knocking goes away. Don't forget the connections to the DIS module are press-ins, don't pry them up or you may break them.
Yes, keep us update. To check you timing belt, you can pull off the crossover tube, part of the intake, and then remove the upper timing belt cover. When you remove it, reinstall the crossover tube and start the motor. See if your belt is jumping around in there...if it is, use a socket extension to press the belt down and see if the knocking goes away. Don't forget the connections to the DIS module are press-ins, don't pry them up or you may break them.
Checked timing belt all ok there have not checked rod bearings but what about the torque converter could this be the bandit I think I mentioned earlier that if you try to move the car it goes about 25 feet and dies like something is binding but it will idle with no problems I drained the oil again and checked for metal none found.
OK here it is today I started the car and let it idle for about a minute and shut it off I then drained the oil and checked it myself I placed a large magnet in the drain pan and let the oil out of the car and drain on to the magnet when it was all drained I removed the magnet and it was coverd with fine silver metal fine as dust. So it is out with the engine and in with a new one. I want to thank all of you for your time and advise I did learn alot from each of you will keep you posted on the progress. Please give any advise on the engine swap.
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