Intermittent no start

[GR8SHO]

The following has been tested with new battery.

Also wanted to mention that there haven't been any changes made to this car like removing the air intake or any other type of maintenance related work. The onset appears to be purely random. Car has 113K miles on it. It's a 95 MTX.

Car is cold. Starts fine, idles fine. Drive car for 2 miles. Turn car off. Car will not start. Won't crank. Acts completely dead. Lights and accessories work. I can hear clicking noises in the ICRM. I will have to listen for the fuel pump carefully next time I am by the car. However, if there are clicking noises from the ICRM, does that mean it is okay or still a possibility for culprit? Since the car doesn't attempt to start at all in the failure mode, I'm trying to isolate which part is causing the problem.

Tomorrow I will grab the codes.

Any other suggestions welcome. Visiting my son in college (his car) so this is time sensitive.

Thanks and Cheers,

 

[SASHO91]

CPS (crank position sensor)

Atleast thats what it sounds like...

If you pull a 212 code, then plan for a new CPS sensor.

 

[GR8SHO]

When my son told me the symptoms initially, the CPS came to mind too. To the best of my knowledge the car has never quit once it started. Issue is only on restart.

I'm sorry I don't have the codes yet. Just trying to isolate the most likely possible causes of "no crank" before I get too deep into this.

 

[SASHO91]

wait, is it not cranking (actually turning over) or the motor not firing????

2 big differences....

If it wont fire, its the CPS(possibly)

If it wont even turn over, then you have a starter circuit failure...

 

[GR8SHO]

Right. Trying to be as precise as possible. The thing acts as dead as a doornail. For the purposes of this thread, the engine doesn't even turn over. So, things like ICRM or starter solenoid or clutch position switch pop into mind, but not 100% sure. For instance, I read in one of the threads that if you can hear clicking in the ICRM, then it's probably okay (makes sense if it's nothing more than a collection of relays).

 

[SHOtimer]

Do the accessory and power quit when he tries to start it, as if the starter is drawing power? Does tapping on the starter cause it to start? I would lean towards a bad starter.

Doug

 

[doclees]

How long before it starts again?

 

[GR8SHO]

Do the accessory and power quit when he tries to start it, as if the starter is drawing power? Does tapping on the starter cause it to start? I would lean towards a bad starter.

Doug

Yes.

And, there are no KOEO codes stored. Clean as a whistle.

 

[GR8SHO]

How long before it starts again?

The last issue happened last night. Left the car where it was and went back this morning. Still no start. As I mentioned in the post above, I pulled the codes and they were clean. I was also able to verify that the fuel pump does its thing.

I noticed there is a tear in the positive battery clamp that is preventing a tight connection, so I'm going to go ahead and replace that. But I don't think this alone is the issue.

I then tried the "tapping on the starter" procedure. This might indeed have let it start. I was able to reproduce this twice. Once the car starts, it works fine.

Any place better than any other place to get a reman'd starter?

 

[SHOtimer]

Just make sure it has a lifetime warranty. Most autoparts stores do a terrible job rebuilding them, so sometimes they go out often, causing you to exercise your warranty. So, just make sure it is lifetime. I think at Kragen you can buy 100% new starters...

Doug

 

[GR8SHO]

Solved

Just make sure it has a lifetime warranty. Most autoparts stores do a terrible job rebuilding them, so sometimes they go out often, causing you to exercise your warranty. So, just make sure it is lifetime. I think at Kragen you can buy 100% new starters...

Doug

In a pinch, Advance Auto had their Palladium brand in one store on hand. It has the lifetime warranty. Says it is new. Also, I understand that getting starters with the right number of teeth has been a problem, but this one was correct with 12.

Some other noteable points. In another thread, someone said to look out for the power steering cooler. Rather than fuss with this, I just removed the 3 screws and moved it out of the way. This gives better clearance to get at the hardware.

The replacement starter stud for power should have had one extra thread to allow for the lock washer and the two wires to make is easier to get the nut on. Probably the most frustrating part of the job. Had to flatten the washer a little to make it work in the awkward position you have to work on your back.

The other design change is the solenoid switch lead changed from the original spade design to a crimp one. If only the damn valve covers weren't leaking... <sigh> The crimp connection at least will be better protected from crud.

Thanks all for your help to reinforce resolution of the obvious problem.