Inexpensive way to more horsepower!

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SHOstuff

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Over the time I been apart of this site, I have accumalated some ideas of what would make the SHO faster, powerful and responsive. Anybody is welcomed to add, correct me and take away what they think is more beneficial. Again, this is just my take on it, doesn't mean I'm right. :)

High flow Y-pipe
Smaller pullys
Accel coils/ MSD coils
10.4 mm Ignition Wires

What do you guys think? :munch:
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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What do I think?

I think anything more than the y-pipe is a complete waste of money.

UDP increase is so slight you wont feel it.
And your ignition related items will net you 0% increase.



If you want the car more responsive and done want to spend a lot, all you need is a lightened flywheel. Best $$ you can spend IMO.

Just plan on one the next time you do a clutch job.
 

rubydist

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I agree that aftermarket ignition coils are useless.
 

platoribs

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What do I think?

I think anything more than the y-pipe is a complete waste of money.

UDP increase is so slight you wont feel it.
And your ignition related items will net you 0% increase.



If you want the car more responsive and done want to spend a lot, all you need is a lightened flywheel. Best $$ you can spend IMO.

Just plan on one the next time you do a clutch job.

Please comment on drivability issues/differences (pro/con) with lightened flywheel? TIA
 

Phoenix

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Over the time I been apart of this site, I have accumalated some ideas of what would make the SHO faster, powerful and responsive. Anybody is welcomed to add, correct me and take away what they think is more beneficial. Again, this is just my take on it, doesn't mean I'm right. :)

High flow Y-pipe
Smaller pullys
Accel coils/ MSD coils
10.4 mm Ignition Wires

What do you guys think? :munch:

The Y-pipe is the choice #1.

Next best thing is a tune up done with good parts. good oem wires with ford plugs.

Then I would do a head/intake porting job , in that order.

Then if you want more , its just gonna cost ya for very little power. To get from 220 crank hp to about 290 chp , its gonna cost at LEAST 3k if you want to stay N/A.

The other way is Turbo , then you can hit 400+hp , then again its gonna cost.

And im not even talking about suspension upgrades , and brakes which is a real must on these cars.
 

speedysprocket

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What do I think?

I think anything more than the y-pipe is a complete waste of money.

UDP increase is so slight you wont feel it.
And your ignition related items will net you 0% increase.



If you want the car more responsive and done want to spend a lot, all you need is a lightened flywheel. Best $$ you can spend IMO.

Just plan on one the next time you do a clutch job.
I agree on the Y pipe statement -- really all you need for an NA car. Best thing you can do is make it run smooth (rod bearings, clean MAF, 60K, suspension, motor mounts, brakes, etc) and work out all the bugs -- the engine is purebread race-designed from the factory. At 73Hp/L it's power output was nearly unrivaled in its class in the late 80s and early 90s. Even today, it takes a sick motor to compete with the SHO pound for pound. Its not really about engine modification with these cars, its about making the rest of the car perform on par with engine.
 

SHOstuff

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Really speedy? wow! I like that. I'm also liking everyone's ideas and suggestions..they are really great.

I think a good tranny also because if the syncros are shot then there's no way you really can see the performance of these cars. A good smooth running tranny goes a long way I think.
 

itwonder

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You can find past posts on this with search. The general consensus is 1) y-pipe 2) intake work/BBB's
 

zach44102

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Best mod I ever did was the suspension work. Making the car lighter, and stiffer will make the car feel so much better. Get a y pipe, get some udp, buy some bbb and port out your intake runners and shove it on nitrous. That's the fastest and cheapest way to 300hp
 

SHOstuff

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But I thought UDP's were not that noticable enough to even invest in them?
 
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Mr Anonymous

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Y-pipe and nitrous. Only "cheap" solution. Everything else is not cheap, and so many things are a waste without 100 other mods. Throw away the rest of the items on your list. If you ever decide to be not cheap, do brakes and handling first.
 

rubydist

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Please comment on drivability issues/differences (pro/con) with lightened flywheel? TIA

I have an 8 lb flywheel on my 3.2 in the 92.

it revs faster and it drops faster.
you have to be better with the clutch, because its easier to stall if you let the clutch out too fast at too low of rpm.
you will feel the a/c kick on/off more because of the lower rotating inertia.
you need a properly operating iac, because it is not at all tolerant of a sticking iac.
my guess is that it hurts fuel mileage a little, but I don't have data to support that conclusion.
there are several guys who say the light flywheel is not a good idea for a daily driver because of these issues, but I like it fine.
 

zach44102

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But I thought UDP's were not that noticable enough to even invest in them?

Not when you like shifting at redline. Udp protect your accessories from burning up. And trust me it makes a big enough difference for the money
 

SHOstuff

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But which UDP's do you need to change and where can you get them? I know cincysho had some before the went off air and I believe shosource has some but I'm not sure which ones.
 

SuperHO

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in reality, you can get away with just a water pump and power steering pulley. I've got an aluminum UDP pulley on my water pump and an ATX pulley on my power steering pump, and it seems to be doing the job okay. The only difference I notice is slightly increased steering effort at idle and the need to slightly rev the engine in traffic with the fan on. With an aftermarket audio system in my car, I have no desire to underdrive my alt or crank, as the stock alt already struggles at an idle.
 

zach44102

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I would buy just the crank pulley from shosource. That's what I have. It charges at 14.5v going up the highway but if you sit at idle for about 30 seconds it quicky drops the around 12.0-12.5v
 

kevinspann

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I would buy just the crank pulley from shosource. That's what I have. It charges at 14.5v going up the highway but if you sit at idle for about 30 seconds it quicky drops the around 12.0-12.5v

Now try that in traffic, in a car with A/C and a radio, lights on, etc.

No thanks.
 

jbserra

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I had the fidanza and won't be putting it back in due to drivability issues. I felt like I forgot how to drive stick every time I got in that car...

Felt really bad when the wife borrowed the car.

It does rev like crazy tho.

BTW, the fidanza is for sale in the parts car section ;-)
 
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