I have continental dws06 tires. I also still need the upgraded intercooler. Any ideas brands etc.
For a half mile run, an intercooler will help your top end, as the heat will not build up as quickly which reduces the effective cylinder filling.
Tires will make a significant difference in your launch and how much power gets put down. It depends on how much you want to spend, and of course if there are any rules at the events you plan to run.
If you're willing to get tires for drag applications that are not daily drivers, then do that. Drag tires will help the launch and first gear traction. I'm not a Gen IV owner, but I assume that there must be some form of launch control available if you have a tune. With better tires, you may be able to tweak your launch control for more boost /revs at launch to improve that area.
An intermediate step is to get top end summer performance tires that you can't drive on in the winter, unlike your Conti's. If you look at the performance data at Tirerack.com you will see that the top Max Performance Summer and Extreme Performance Summer tires have significantly better dry braking distances than even the best Ultra High Performance All Seasons, the latter being where your DWS06's fall. Look at, say, Michelin Pilot Sport 4S, or BFG Rival 1.5S; you might have to change tire size from stock so go wider. Max braking traction is a reasonable stand-in for launch traction, it's just the opposite direction. Same comments, these only affect launch and first gear, launch control adjustments might help put the improved traction to use.
Whatever tires you get, put them on wheels that are lighter than your stock wheels. Wheel + tire weight makes a big difference, and the faster you are going the more the difference because the rotational momentum goes with wheel rotation rate squared. So weight here will affect performance in a half mile more than it does in a quarter mile. Depending on which "authority" you listen to, a pound saved on a wheel + tire is worth between 4 and 20 times a pound saved on non-rotating mass. As a general rule, the larger the wheel diameter, the greater the weight and the more mass that is carried further out, which are both bad things for rotational momentum built up. So pimpin' it up with 20's or larger is almost always detrimental to performance. Most wheel makers, and Tire Rack, have data on the weight of their wheels. You can spend $$$$ or even more on wheels, so depends on your tolerance. Wheels that are chromed are usually a sign that it's a heavy wheel designed for looks rather than weight/performance. Terms like rim rolling or forging usually mean more highly engineered wheels that are lighter, and more expensive especially for forged. But follow the weight rather than the terms. The lightest Enkei wheels in 18 or 19 inch sizes can weigh around 20#, while 20 inch and 22 inch of other brands can weigh 5, 10, or 15# PER WHEEL more. And stock wheels are usually built for durability and cost rather than weight savings, someone here probably knows what the stockers weigh. Hope this helps!