Idling at 2500, clutch in at 1000-1800

[Blksprk]

Ok, so in order... (All numbers are RPMs unless stated, and RPMs are always at idle unless stated)

Reved engine hard (5000s), went up a hill in gear, coasted down hill, Idle at 3000... turned car off, popped hood, started car again, shot up to over 2000 then leveled off at about 1200, got out with car still idling, opened throttle manually then released, idling at 3000, turned throttle to close till it hit the stop bolt, idle came back to 1200, tapped throttle body with hammer, erratic idle (didn't see numbers but changed rapidly), wiggling the throttle has a similar effect. Replaced IAC as it already needed to be replaced. Tapping no longer causes erratic behavior, everything else the same. Replaced TPS, idle is now more like 2500 and when the clutch is in it drops to about 1200 and waffles back and forth to about 1800, releasing clutch sends it back up to 2500, cleaned MAF, no change. Sprayed starting fluid at all vacuum lines I could find to see it there was a leak, nothing. Pulled codes, TPS out of range, realized I bought the wrong TPS (Matched OE numbers to replacement numbers), installed the correct TPS, no change.

Is there something I am missing? I will clear codes tomorrow by pulling the battery cable and driving for some time during the day, but I have no clue what else it could be unless I have a vacuum leak I cant find. Any input is greatly appreciated.

 

[Mrhappytuzi]

Did you clean the little nostrils on the inside of the intake that go to the IAC?

 

[Blksprk]

Did you clean the little nostrils on the inside of the intake that go to the IAC?

No I did not, but wouldn't a clog cause low idle due to lack of air flow?

Reseting the computer lowered the rpms to around 2000 at idle, but one hard rev sent them back and above. Now idling at 3500... I have no idea what is wrong and am lost on what to do next. The car is almost undrivable, it accelerates in any gear on its own forcing me to ride the breaks to keep it under the speed limit.

Is there something else I should be checking?

 

[93rev2sev]

Stuck open injector.

Where in Michigan are you?

 

[Blksprk]

I live in Ann arbor.

 

[93rev2sev]

Check you ***

 

[SHObill]

"turned throttle to close till it hit the stop bolt, idle came back to 1200, tapped throttle body with hammer, erratic idle "
-sounds to me that the throttle body plate is not closing all the way all the time, result in high erratic idle. Or you have an air leak somewhere else to cause the high idle. =like a loose or cracked hose coupler. Check the throttle & cruise cables for binding or I have seen a bent throttle cable brkt too.
-An open/stuck injector would cause too much fuel in a cylinder & roast a cat, smell bad & you could hear it with a stethoscope. I don't think that would cause a high idle. Your getting unmetered air somewhere or something is binding.

 

[Blksprk]

There are alot of Michigan people here.

When I remove the hose from the throttle to the air box, the throttle body looks a little dirty, would it be worth my time to take the throttle body off and clean it? Or is there a safe and effective cleaning spray I can use?

And how far back is the spring supposed to close the throttle? Mine leaves nearly an 1/8 inch of gap between the stop bolt and the spring coil.

 

[Blksprk]

-sounds to me that the throttle body plate is not closing all the way all the time, result in high erratic idle. Or you have an air leak somewhere else to cause the high idle. =like a loose or cracked hose coupler. Check the throttle & cruise cables for binding or I have seen a bent throttle cable brkt too.

Ding ding ding. The cruise cable was pulling the throttle ever so slightly open. Good thing I don't EVER use cruise because now its disconnected and the car runs as it should. And the throttle body is nearly sparkling. Thanks for the two bit all. You guys are the best.