IAC delete ?

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ycode90

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I removed this because I should not have cursed or been vulgar .
 
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yamahaSHO

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Bye bye.

You can get your free Internet advice on the www.nothingaboutshosforum.com. You are MORE than welcome to crack open a several-thousand page Ford book and research the information yourself. ;)
 
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Vnuk1

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**** you smartass this is why I stayed away from this forum for years . I never asked any opinions . I was researching info for my custom intake I could have said that sooner Thats my fault . I don't like off topic shit or jackassery in my threads . My aim is to get info not jack ***** with asshats that being said goodbye shoforum.:thankyou:

Wow, calm down it's only the intrawbez...:nut:
 

rbruso

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My aim is to get info.

Actually, I think you got quite a bit of good info, though it appears to not be what you wanted. Especially when a respected member was talking about IAC still being quite useful on a track-only car.

Yes, there was some poo flung about, but as you said you didn't specify you were building a custom intake early on. I assumed you were talking about deleting the IAC on a stock-style intake, and I'm sure pretty much everyone else did, too.

And, sorry to break it to you, but this isn't "your" thread. It is a community thread. Unless you're a moderator, you can't control who posts what. The best you can do is provide all the relevant information up front to prevent bad assumptions about what you're trying to do.
 

firebat45

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You can get rid of it and tune the idle with the idle screw. It won't perform as well and keeping the IAC is a much better idea, it would even be easy to integrate into a custom intake.

But you can do it, it will run. I know of at least one Lemons car that did it.

I wouldn't even consider it for anything other than a drag car though.

Another option is an electronic throttle (ala the killer toyota cars). If it's electronically controlled it can do both jobs at once, throttle and idle control. Hooking up the electronics for that will suck though.
 
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93rev2sev

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Hmm....someone has a lead skull.

The throttle stop screw is there, not to help control idle, but to ensure that the throttle plate does not slam into the throttlebody walls when you "get off it", causing a line to be worn into the TB wall and making the blade stick. That's why were not supposed to adjust it (according to ford).

Removing the IAC...I'd just as soon remove the intake altogether and bolt up a carburator.
 

hawkeye18

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Actually, carbureting your custom engine might not be too bad an idea. It would eliminate a lot of wiring and plumbing and - yes - fuel injectors (saving weight), you could just run an MSD system for your spark, and you wouldn't have to deal with any of the extraneous ancillary equipment. You'd probably have to ditch the stock fuel pump and run an in-line LP fuel pump (which would also be easier to replace and remove more wiring from the CCRM) in order to avoid flooding the carb.

As for my earlier post, yes, it would've really helped had you stated this was for your theoretical custom intake. That would've made a lot more sense. See what sort of impact one little omitted fact can make?
 

firebat45

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Hmm....someone has a lead skull.

I hope you didn't mean me. Just because I'm not jumping on the "IMPOSSIBLE!" bandwagon doesn't make me an idiot. All I said was that it was possible, and probably a bad idea.

As for keeping the butterfly from slamming into the walls of the TB, adjusting the screw so the butterfly is more open is not going to affect that at all. Adjusting the plate so it closes further might cause problems with sticking, but not adjusting the plate so it's more open.

I don't know about the rest of you, but if I had a stupid question (don't take that personally OP) I'd prefer the replies to be

A) Civil
B) Useful
C) Actually explain why it will/won't work

Insults (both side of the argument here) aren't going to help anybody.

Actually, carbureting your custom engine might not be too bad an idea. It would eliminate a lot of wiring and plumbing and - yes - fuel injectors (saving weight), you could just run an MSD system for your spark, and you wouldn't have to deal with any of the extraneous ancillary equipment. You'd probably have to ditch the stock fuel pump and run an in-line LP fuel pump (which would also be easier to replace and remove more wiring from the CCRM) in order to avoid flooding the carb.

As for my earlier post, yes, it would've really helped had you stated this was for your theoretical custom intake. That would've made a lot more sense. See what sort of impact one little omitted fact can make?

This is a good point. If you're going all out for a track car, and you really really don't want to mess with all the wiring and stuff, carb it. There's a salt flats speedster with a carbed SHO engine, makes a lot more power than stock.

You lose a lot of drivability, there's a reason cars went to EFI and, but it's doable for a track car.

Carb sho engine
 
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Racer X

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**** you smartass this is why I stayed away from this forum for years . I never asked any opinions . I was researching info for my custom intake I could have said that sooner Thats my fault . I don't like off topic shit or jackassery in my threads . My aim is to get info not jack ***** with asshats that being said goodbye shoforum.:thankyou:
I wish I could say I didn't see that coming. I wish I could.

You asked a question, and when the replies are what you didn't want to hear, this is the answer?

People are going to post dumb shit sometimes, it's much easier to just skip their posts than to respond like you just did. ::shakehead

*edit*
I see you edited your post... nevermind then.
 
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hawkeye18

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wow... a distributor driven off the cam gear... that's f***ing brilliant! That's even easier than an MSD system.

But yeah, more wiring = more shit that can break. Carburetors are both very hardy and easy to fix (quickly). For an all out race motor, i would go with carburetors. Maybe you can go with triple Holley four-barrels! Wouldn't that be a hoot! (or maybe just one of these)
 

firebat45

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wow... a distributor driven off the cam gear... that's f***ing brilliant! That's even easier than an MSD system.

But yeah, more wiring = more shit that can break. Carburetors are both very hardy and easy to fix (quickly). For an all out race motor, i would go with carburetors. Maybe you can go with triple Holley four-barrels! Wouldn't that be a hoot! (or maybe just one of these)

I would have liked to see the cam position sensor location used for the distributor, but the cam gear setup works too.
 

sho_sc

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This is NOT a "street" car by any means I won't say what it has or not has. I've been using the Tweecer rt for years . Just never played with the IAC settings . I was just wondering really if anyone's ever deleted theirs and what was done for tuning.

I've modified my settings due to a larger TB. But my head just hurts trying to figure out a way to just delete the IAC. It's the "idle down" from acceleration function that I can't get my head around to delete. (and still have a runable SHO).
 

Off Road SHO

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I've modified my settings due to a larger TB. But my head just hurts trying to figure out a way to just delete the IAC. It's the "idle down" from acceleration function that I can't get my head around to delete. (and still have a runable SHO).

How about a hydraulic dashpot to slow it down? Might be able to rig up an electric version also. Without some sort of "idle down" feature, I think the car will drive like a Midget or Quarter Midget.

Tom
 

rubydist

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Well, engines ran for years with carbs that had no "idle down" dashpot function. The reality is that the only significant functional reason to have that dashpot feature is to reduce emissions. When the throttle plate slams shut, there is no way to stop the fuel flow that quickly, so there is a big spike in hydrocarbons. That spike is eliminated by slowly approaching idle.

The significant issue to me is the cold idle speed. Carbs have a throttle plate ramp that is engaged when the choke is on to increase the amount of air entering the cold engine. w/o the iac, one would need to set the idle fast enough to keep the cold engine running, which results in a hot idle that is significantly higher than desirable.
 

Racer X

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Well, on the throttle plate closing being dampened, the early Mk III Golf/Jetta has a handy little throttle return dampener to keep the plate from just slamming shut.
 

firebat45

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Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

I wasn't referring to posts that had some information about why it was a bad idea, I meant the posts that contributed nothing. Not every post in this thread has been bad, most are fine.
 

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