???? I was thinkin!!! I wonder if my drag wheels will fit???

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NEp8ntballer

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from what I've heard the 2010 has a front end bias so skinnys up front isn't the greatest idea ever. I'd get a set of lighter, fairly wide wheels and shorten the diameter to get a gear reduction that way. the speedo will be off though.
 

Racer X

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from what I've heard the 2010 has a front end bias so skinnys up front isn't the greatest idea ever. I'd get a set of lighter, fairly wide wheels and shorten the diameter to get a gear reduction that way. the speedo will be off though.
The '10 SHO has a 90% rear bias, from what I recall being discussed by the drivetrain engineers.
 

SHOspazz92

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Thanks for the unneccessary explanation, but its not my first rodeo either.... :swing:

You aint gonna get 2-3 tenths that way.

James, I want to have your children and all, But I don't agree with you one bit.

I would bet a SAMMICH that Dumping 20'' 35 Pound wheels for a set of 18'' 20pound wheels on all four corners would certainly give him .2 tenths or more at the strip. On my a old White 92 I had, I ran it with a set of 18'' wheels...I don't recall the weight....but they were HEAVY. I ran a [email protected] MPH with a 2.3 60' Time. The next week i went back with a set of Slicers on and ran a [email protected] (Lost some MPH by going with the Smaller 16'' wheels) with a exact 60' of 2.3. The weather was even spot on with the previous week. This happened more then once.

I'm not trying to say you don't know what your talking about James but I probably have 100+ Runs down the strip with all kinds of different setup's in SHO's. Doing stuff as simple as pulling out a 50+ Pound passenger seat has always netted me times at least 1-2 tenths faster. Saving nearly 60 pounds of weight from the wheels will certainly make a difference.

-Sam
 
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kikkinasphalt

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maybe i can join your club now kik

too long did not read.


but i had a typo, it should have said sub 12 second cars.

and re read what i said. i said i doubt you will but if you did cool.

:munch:
 
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bigblock

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im sorry, but that was some serious pwnage up above beefcakes post... just saying
 

beefcake

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too long did not read.


but i had a typo, it should have said sub 12 second cars.

and re read what i said. i said i doubt you will but if you did cool.

:munch:

well, unfortunately i'm not psychic to know what you "meant" to type, i can only comment on what you actually typed.

when i was competing with my lightning nationally i regularly kept 200lbs of ballast with me. i would look at sat days qualifying weather and estimated weather of sunday to determine when and where to use the ballast.

i'd use those ballast in 50lb increments. weight is the same as elevation. everything affects whats going on. every 100 ft of elevation is roughly .01 in the quarter, 1000ft is roughly .1

why do you think heads up classes run weight requirements.

weight has a ton to do with what your gonna run, and thats just common sense. and rotational mass affects it even more. why do you think guys do things like lightweight brakes, alum driveshafts, drag wheels. it's all for e.t.

and again, on a heavy 20" wheel. a halfway decently light wheel would def get you a minimum of .2,

i'd say a set of even 20" forged wheels in the same size would get you .1
 

kikkinasphalt

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im sorry, but that was some serious pwnage up above beefcakes post... just saying

not really.

LMAO Kikkinasphault got owned again....

owned again?

well, unfortunately i'm not psychic to know what you "meant" to type, i can only comment on what you actually typed.

when i was competing with my lightning nationally i regularly kept 200lbs of ballast with me. i would look at sat days qualifying weather and estimated weather of sunday to determine when and where to use the ballast.

i'd use those ballast in 50lb increments. weight is the same as elevation. everything affects whats going on. every 100 ft of elevation is roughly .01 in the quarter, 1000ft is roughly .1

why do you think heads up classes run weight requirements.

weight has a ton to do with what your gonna run, and thats just common sense. and rotational mass affects it even more. why do you think guys do things like lightweight brakes, alum driveshafts, drag wheels. it's all for e.t.

and again, on a heavy 20" wheel. a halfway decently light wheel would def get you a minimum of .2,

i'd say a set of even 20" forged wheels in the same size would get you .1


you telling me you couldnt diagnose sub from sun? one letter and you coud not figure that out?

go on and put your dick away. i still stand by that you likely wont pick up .3 by a wheel swap. givin all other things are the same.

also since youre such a pro. i would have figured you to be smarter than wanting to put bigs and skinnies on an all wheel drive car.

btw. looks like you have a fan club already. :wave:
 
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beefcake

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not really.



owned again?




you telling me you couldnt diagnose sub from sun? one letter and you coud not figure that out?

go on and put your dick away. i still stand by that you likely wont pick up .3 by a wheel swap. givin all other things are the same.

also since youre such a pro. i would have figured you to be smarter than wanting to put bigs and skinnies on an all wheel drive car.

btw. looks like you have a fan club already. :wave:

i believe your the one that asked me to pull my dick out, if your gonna stick 3 fingers out for me to lay it across, then be prepared for a handful

you could put skinnies on the front and larger wheels on the back if the overall height was the same, as long as you have enough tire to keep from spinning it won't matter, and i did say at least .2 if not .3
 

kikkinasphalt

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i believe your the one that asked me to pull my dick out, if your gonna stick 3 fingers out for me to lay it across, then be prepared for a handful

you could put skinnies on the front and larger wheels on the back if the overall height was the same, as long as you have enough tire to keep from spinning it won't matter, and i did say at least .2 if not .3

no what you did was wip out the dick and banged a nun. a simple ive had xxxx and left it at that. you felt the need to go over the top with it. and thats cool. cant say i wouldnt have done the same thing.

from what i understood is that on an all wheel drive car you "should" have the same tire size on all four corners. if you can manage to make the skinnies hook then maybe you will get a full pass and be ok, but on the bad end of that if they dont hook, or worse break free mid track i see disaster.

either way good luck. it would be nice to see the ecosho gain some respect on the tarmac.

curt
 

SHODWN

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For what Tom?

My first question is if you had all these monster cars why step to a MUCH heavier and slower SHO?

While you are correct about the theroy of the wheels, your in a new class new car your throwing a brick down a hallway, and fighting gear ratios that car moves ultra fast now and a few simple pounds from the wheels really wont bring .3 like you think. sure I agree with you that it will help, in SHO world every little think helps. but think of the other factors as well.

The car is tuned for a certain thing, boost shuts down and you still have to muscle the "brick down the hall way". Now once we change the boost levels, where it comes in and when it exits durring a shifts (it cuts fuel durring shifts currently).

IF the car is running 13.5s with the tuning and your new wheels then you can see exactly what im talking about. as c.a.d has thier stock non 12s car running 13.7

and Ive only had 1 13 sec car,Driven 100's and owned 25 SHOs but if the two of you are whipping them out for money then im in for sure! :evilgrin:
 

beefcake

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For what Tom?

My first question is if you had all these monster cars why step to a MUCH heavier and slower SHO?

While you are correct about the theroy of the wheels, your in a new class new car your throwing a brick down a hallway, and fighting gear ratios that car moves ultra fast now and a few simple pounds from the wheels really wont bring .3 like you think. sure I agree with you that it will help, in SHO world every little think helps. but think of the other factors as well.

The car is tuned for a certain thing, boost shuts down and you still have to muscle the "brick down the hall way". Now once we change the boost levels, where it comes in and when it exits durring a shifts (it cuts fuel durring shifts currently).

IF the car is running 13.5s with the tuning and your new wheels then you can see exactly what im talking about. as c.a.d has thier stock non 12s car running 13.7

and Ive only had 1 13 sec car,Driven 100's and owned 25 SHOs but if the two of you are whipping them out for money then im in for sure! :evilgrin:

because it's new and different

as far as class of car, it doesn't matter the type of vehicle.

it's simple physics

you cut rotational weight, your gonna cut e.t.

you cut physical weight, your gonna cut e.t.

it's nothing new, same with the lightnings, my lightning went 10.7's @ 5200 lbs,

you take a car running 13.5's and cut 500 lbs physical weight, your should get about .5 from that

you cut nearly 100 lbs rotational weight, there is no doubt you'll get at least .2 if not .3 just as i stated.

i'll tell you what, you pay for a set of 15lb custom wheels and tires. if it doesn't pick up at least .2 in the 1/4 same track same day, i'll pick up the cost of the wheels and tires and double the money to ya

if it does, i keep the wheels and tires

:)
 

SHO U UP

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i'll tell you what, you pay for a set of 15lb custom wheels and tires. if it doesn't pick up at least .2 in the 1/4 same track same day, i'll pick up the cost of the wheels and tires and double the money to ya

if it does, i keep the wheels and tires

:)

Insert drum roll please!!
 

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