SinisterSHO
Rust free
someone say ********?
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i was going to say this.
:swing:
My dick is bigger.....![]()
The '10 SHO has a 90% rear bias, from what I recall being discussed by the drivetrain engineers.from what I've heard the 2010 has a front end bias so skinnys up front isn't the greatest idea ever. I'd get a set of lighter, fairly wide wheels and shorten the diameter to get a gear reduction that way. the speedo will be off though.
Thanks for the unneccessary explanation, but its not my first rodeo either.... :swing:
You aint gonna get 2-3 tenths that way.
maybe i can join your club now kik

too long did not read.
but i had a typo, it should have said sub 12 second cars.
and re read what i said. i said i doubt you will but if you did cool.
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im sorry, but that was some serious pwnage up above beefcakes post... just saying
LMAO Kikkinasphault got owned again....
well, unfortunately i'm not psychic to know what you "meant" to type, i can only comment on what you actually typed.
when i was competing with my lightning nationally i regularly kept 200lbs of ballast with me. i would look at sat days qualifying weather and estimated weather of sunday to determine when and where to use the ballast.
i'd use those ballast in 50lb increments. weight is the same as elevation. everything affects whats going on. every 100 ft of elevation is roughly .01 in the quarter, 1000ft is roughly .1
why do you think heads up classes run weight requirements.
weight has a ton to do with what your gonna run, and thats just common sense. and rotational mass affects it even more. why do you think guys do things like lightweight brakes, alum driveshafts, drag wheels. it's all for e.t.
and again, on a heavy 20" wheel. a halfway decently light wheel would def get you a minimum of .2,
i'd say a set of even 20" forged wheels in the same size would get you .1
not really.
owned again?
you telling me you couldnt diagnose sub from sun? one letter and you coud not figure that out?
go on and put your dick away. i still stand by that you likely wont pick up .3 by a wheel swap. givin all other things are the same.
also since youre such a pro. i would have figured you to be smarter than wanting to put bigs and skinnies on an all wheel drive car.
btw. looks like you have a fan club already. :wave:
i believe your the one that asked me to pull my dick out, if your gonna stick 3 fingers out for me to lay it across, then be prepared for a handful
you could put skinnies on the front and larger wheels on the back if the overall height was the same, as long as you have enough tire to keep from spinning it won't matter, and i did say at least .2 if not .3
What a bunch of hooey. I think it's time to close this thread.
Tom

I'll whip out the brain. I know I'll win.
For what Tom?
My first question is if you had all these monster cars why step to a MUCH heavier and slower SHO?
While you are correct about the theroy of the wheels, your in a new class new car your throwing a brick down a hallway, and fighting gear ratios that car moves ultra fast now and a few simple pounds from the wheels really wont bring .3 like you think. sure I agree with you that it will help, in SHO world every little think helps. but think of the other factors as well.
The car is tuned for a certain thing, boost shuts down and you still have to muscle the "brick down the hall way". Now once we change the boost levels, where it comes in and when it exits durring a shifts (it cuts fuel durring shifts currently).
IF the car is running 13.5s with the tuning and your new wheels then you can see exactly what im talking about. as c.a.d has thier stock non 12s car running 13.7
and Ive only had 1 13 sec car,Driven 100's and owned 25 SHOs but if the two of you are whipping them out for money then im in for sure!![]()
i'll tell you what, you pay for a set of 15lb custom wheels and tires. if it doesn't pick up at least .2 in the 1/4 same track same day, i'll pick up the cost of the wheels and tires and double the money to ya
if it does, i keep the wheels and tires
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