LJRuddy
Pop lock n drop
Just pulled the timing belt cover off and i noticed a bronze oily coating all over the cover. This greasy coating also had what looked like metal flakes in it.
Ruh Row.
Update post #6
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I has crank cancer!
- Thread starter LJRuddy
- Start date
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Just pulled the timing belt cover off and i noticed a bronze oily coating all over the cover. This greasy coating also had what looked like metal flakes in it.
Ruh Row.
Update post #6
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
+1. Ruh roh.
SHOtime2511
CGP
that looks normal to me.
the only way to tell for sure is to take off the crank pully and give the key a look-see.
the only way to tell for sure is to take off the crank pully and give the key a look-see.
LJRuddy
Pop lock n drop
Just pulled the crank pulley out... by hand.
Looks like the key stock was been bent/molded and then broken in half where the keystock goes through the timing sproket on the crank.
The keyway on the pulley looks fine. Just seems like the actual keystock has been warped and bent.
Isnt that keystock a Ford only item? Discontinued? Other options?
Looks like the key stock was been bent/molded and then broken in half where the keystock goes through the timing sproket on the crank.
The keyway on the pulley looks fine. Just seems like the actual keystock has been warped and bent.
Isnt that keystock a Ford only item? Discontinued? Other options?
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
by keystock do you mean the woodruff key? If so, then I think they're obsolete... well, odds are real good it's obsolete, along with everything else for the engine.
I'm SURE somebody on SHOforum has one or five laying around. Put a post in the WTB section and see if you can get a new one.
To be fair, any piece of metal that is the right dimentions should work just fine, as long as the metal is fairly hard. Don't want it getting compressed/breaking...
I'm SURE somebody on SHOforum has one or five laying around. Put a post in the WTB section and see if you can get a new one.
To be fair, any piece of metal that is the right dimentions should work just fine, as long as the metal is fairly hard. Don't want it getting compressed/breaking...
LJRuddy
Pop lock n drop
Its crank cancer...
Guess I will be shopping for a 3.2
Guess I will be shopping for a 3.2
LJRuddy
Pop lock n drop
What was your fix?
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
damn. That sucks.
FWIW, most people use the ol' stand-by fixer-upper, JB Weld.
You might could use Billy Mays' Mighty Putty...
FWIW, most people use the ol' stand-by fixer-upper, JB Weld.
You might could use Billy Mays' Mighty Putty...
Inkertinker
Well-Known Member
Liberty, (James (st louis sho) ) My dads car was just as bad. I have a keyway and gear if you need, but you'll need serious TQ to keep it all in line...
LJRuddy
Pop lock n drop
From what I can tell, the keyway on the crank is at its narrowest 5/16 wide. I think its a little too wide to fix not to mention keep accurate engine timing.
FWIW, I already got ahold of a guy who lives about 15 minute from me. He has a black/mocha 94 ATX for sale for cheap. I guess it leaks a little bit of coolant at the pump and it leaks a little bit of P/S fluid. But for 400 bucks, it is a solid running car that has a bad mount (from what I can tell). I guess he just does not want it anymore as he has a new car. I am going up there tomorrow to pick it up from him. I plan on driving that SHO in the mean time until I can save up enough money to redo the 3.2 in it (220k miles) and swap it into my silver SHO.
It will be a blessing in disguise as I have a new sway bar combo and TPR bushings waiting to be installed. I guess I will be doing that while the subframe is out.
NEp8ntballer
cyber ninja
93 was the last year for black unless the car was repainted...
jthod
Mr. Goodwrench
drive up here so I can buy you a beer...
sorry man, hope I can help out.
sorry man, hope I can help out.
SHOtime2511
CGP
ManySHOs
[]=[] []
From what I can tell, your car could probably be repaired with a new woodruff key and a timing belt sprocket, right?
Is the crank normally damaged when this occurs?
Does anyone know why this tends to happen?
Is it possible to remove the key from another crank and transfer it over?
As far as I can tell, the keys are simply friction fit?
I'm probably going to start taking the SHO apart tomorrow to determine if this is the timing issue that I'm having with this car.
How was it running when you took it off the road?
I'm crossing my fingers that it's ok. The crank pulley fit very snugly over the key when I installed it. So much so, that I don't see how anything could have moved.
Thanks,
Ian
Is the crank normally damaged when this occurs?
Does anyone know why this tends to happen?
Is it possible to remove the key from another crank and transfer it over?
As far as I can tell, the keys are simply friction fit?
I'm probably going to start taking the SHO apart tomorrow to determine if this is the timing issue that I'm having with this car.
How was it running when you took it off the road?
I'm crossing my fingers that it's ok. The crank pulley fit very snugly over the key when I installed it. So much so, that I don't see how anything could have moved.
Thanks,
Ian
LJRuddy
Pop lock n drop
I am getting a new woodruf key and cam sprocket soon via a friend of mine here on the forums. I will see if I cant repair the damage...
The crank can be damaged yes. In my case, it was. But from what I have been told, the damage is minimal even though it looks much worse.
Not sure why it happens. You would think it would be a loose pulley bolt but mine was on solid.
You can use a key from another crank as long as it is in good shape and yes they are friction fitted. They just kinda slide in.
My car was running like shit when I parked it.
Rough starting, extremely low idle. When cold, the engine would stall out if you gave it any throttle. Engine would not rev easily. In fact, in neutral, I could not get it to rev past 6500 rpms. My rear cat was glowing red hot even AFTER i gutted it out. Horrible gas mileage. We're talking 8ish mpg. The car just really ran like crap... Just like you would expect it to run if the timing was off by about 10 degrees.
For this to happen, the sprocket would have to be loose. It may have felt tight, but the clamping force needed wasn't there. I have a few spare keys laying around.
Did you you have any slight knocking or clicking sound when the car ran? Mine made that for a month or so and couldn't pin point where the sound was coming from, so then I took everything apart and found the broken key.
I think you mean crank sprocket, right?
Did you you have any slight knocking or clicking sound when the car ran? Mine made that for a month or so and couldn't pin point where the sound was coming from, so then I took everything apart and found the broken key.
LJRuddy said:
I think you mean crank sprocket, right?
LJRuddy
Pop lock n drop
I dont remember hearing any ticking noises coming from the car. If i did hear something like that, you bet your ass I would have not driven it until I found the problem. Thats the last thing I need is another SHO with a spun bearing.
And yea, I meant crank sprocket.
SHOtime2511
CGP
right,at some point the proper torque was not applied to the bolt.
the shop manual calls for 113-126lb-ft on this bolt to apply the needed clamping force.
keep in mind when using a torque wrench that the torque calibration will be thrown off with the use of any extentions.
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