huge problems

[AeroSS_87]

Sorry I don't have much time to introduce myself and get to know any of you, but I'll give you a run down. I bought an 89 SHO with dealer leather and rust protection. has 130k on it, and aside from a dented fender, bad rear struts, and a bad clutch, it's really a 4 of 5 star car. Picked it up for 800 bucks and I absolutely love it. I'm having a problem that I cannot possibly start to comprehend. here's the deal:

It will run fine for anywhere from days/weeks down to just 5 minutes, and out of the blue, it will just 'glitch'. I mean, half the motor seems to only be firing, and it jolts the car back and forth vigorously HARD under any form of acceleration. typically, 3-5 minutes later, it will just stop on an instant and run perfect. some other factors - if it's glitched and you try to start it, it feels like your starting a locked up motor with a dead battery, and after cranking for so long, smoke rolls out the hood like their's a bad head gasket or something. but if it WAS a gasket, it wouldn't just come on and go away like this. it's throwing a code, but I'm trying to find my reader. I've heard of some 200 dollar part that controls all the computer and sh*t, but I dont' have any clue where to start. I'm an LS1 Z28 guy here.. this is kinda foreign to me.

PLEASE HELP!!! and thank you :wave:

 

[Redline]

You don't need a code reader to pull the codes, just a paper clip. There are instructions here: http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=83

Just from what I see in your post, it sounds like it could be a bad CID (camshaft position sensor). I had mine go bad and had similar problems (bucking, stalling, hard starting, dead tach. etc.).

 

[AeroSS_87]

it actualy does have a dead tach at times too... I'll look into it thankx

 

[mharris999]

you mentioned that when trying to crank for too long smoke came out of the engine compartment. Not sure if you had anyone watching or not but I've seen battery terminals start to spark and smoke when cranked too long or overloaded. Not sure if you checked that or not or if even that is the cause of the smoke.

good luck getting it running, it can be quite a pain but is usually worth it in the end

 

[Redline]

Yea, if you have a dead tach I would say definetly start by replacing your CID, especially if you pull the codes and it indicates thats the problem. Its a fairly cheap part and not very hard to change out.

 

[AeroSS_87]

you mentioned that when trying to crank for too long smoke came out of the engine compartment. Not sure if you had anyone watching or not but I've seen battery terminals start to spark and smoke when cranked too long or overloaded. Not sure if you checked that or not or if even that is the cause of the smoke.

good luck getting it running, it can be quite a pain but is usually worth it in the end

I would have stopped cranking if it was a 'bad' smoke like that. this is clearly engine oil smoke. and even smells like it... that's the part that scares me from the sensor problems. This thing already drinks oil pretty rapid. I drive 110 miles a day just for work commute, and this thing will burn 1 1/2 quarts in 3 weeks.

thanks all for the help. i never stopped to think about the cam or crank sensor

 

[jelloslug]

Have you pulled the plug wires? I would bet that the plug wells are full of oil. That would cause major missfires.

 

[AeroSS_87]

I plan on doing a full tune up in the next month...but how the **** would wires get filled with oil? that should be impossible.

 

[SASHO91]

the wires dont get filled with oil... the wells do... were the wires go down to the plug.
the seals start to warp after so many miles, mainly from heat cycles... getting hot then colling down... this cause the seal to warp, letting engine oil down in to the well...
with oil in the well, the spark is not as strong and sometimes misses... im not too sure on that last part, but im sure someone will chime in on it....

check the plug wells, then pull the codes...

 

[AeroSS_87]

ah... I mis read the wells part in the original reply. I thought it said wires. n/m that makes sense.