How to Identify HIDs

[jman1200]

Recently got a 2010 SHO, it came with aftermarket LED headlights and one needs to be replaced.
I haven't had much luck with LED's in any of my vehicles, they never lasted more than a year so I'd like to switch back to halogens or HID's.
How can I tell if my SHO came with HID's or halogens?
Where are the HID's ballasts located?
My Mazda 6 has HID's and the projector lens looks very similar.

 

[Lostneye]

All 2010+ SHOs should have come with HIDs. I don't know on these cars but most FMC vehicles I've seen with HIDs have the ballasts on underside of the headlight housing and the mounting point typically still molded in on halogen housings. If it is not using them the ballasts would have to have been bypassed/removed.

Was the car in an accident and possibly now has halogen housings? I have not looked but I wouldn't expect many aftermarket LED headlight bulbs are available to fit D3S HID projectors.

 

[bpd1151]

At one point in the past, any SHO's being shipped out of the Country (let's use Canada as an example) the HID's were not an available option.

But Domestically, they were/are standard equipment. From 2010 and up.

I'm not sure if Foreign country rules have changed since then, so what was once the above practice, could've changed.

I would do a lil research and see if any LED is supported in the D3S format, assuming you definitively have the HID heads/housings.

If you don't, and do truly desire the HID's, your best bet may be to scope out a set of used assemblies that were/are HID to begin with.

From what I recall, the assemblies purchased new, were/are something astronomical. Like $1,200 if memory serves correctly.

 

[jman1200]

I took a deeper look last night, according to the manual found in the glove compartment my SHO came with HID's.
Grabbed the ballast and was able to see that it is for HID lights
20180322_203221 by JP M, on Flickr'][/URL]
20180322_203154 by JP M, on Flickr'][/URL]

and also found a hidden and unplugged LED ballast which I removed

20180322_210338 by JP M, on Flickr'][/URL]

So the vehicle had LED's at some point and someone took it back to HID's. Now, why did they install a separate HID system? Wonder if the OEM ballasts are still somewhere.... not having a Shop/Parts Manual for this car is frustrating....

Someone cut through the headlight dust cap to run the wires for the ballasts... I hate when people do this.... arrrrgggghhhh !!!

20180322_203248 by JP M, on Flickr'][/URL]

I'd appreciate if someone can point me to where the look for the OEM ballasts. If possible I'd like to revert everything back to its original condition.

 

[bpd1151]

Here is a link to the general parts page:

https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-par...ngine/electrical-cat/headlamp-components-scat

There are several hyper links within the above, that will direct you to the individual parts you are looking for.

Including new dust covers. Haha.

My fear though for you is, is that since you posted the previous owners installed BOTH aftermarket LED's & HID's is that your biggest problem, even more so than simply purchasing OEM replacement ballasts as you are asking for.....

Is that you need to verify your head assemblies are for the OEM HID's.

As I stated previously, Domestic trim level SHO's came standard with HID's. Canadian models, and other countries DID NOT.

Or given the amount of prior modifications, I would hope that the previous owner(s) did not install lower trim level, standard halogen bulb assemblies onto your SHO.

Verify you have the proper projector assemblies designed for HID, before you go purchasing replacement, OEM HID ballasts.

For your own wallet's sake. Good luck.

 

[jman1200]

That link was helpful, thanks.
So I'll look for the PN, hopefully is on top of the headlight....
AG1Z-13008-G/H = HID's
BG1Z-13008-A/B = Halogens

 

[Lostneye]

Is that you need to verify your head assemblies are for the OEM HID's.

As I stated previously, Domestic trim level SHO's came standard with HID's. Canadian models, and other countries DID NOT.

Or given the amount of prior modifications, I would hope that the previous owner(s) did not install lower trim level, standard halogen bulb assemblies onto your SHO.

Verify you have the proper projector assemblies designed for HID, before you go purchasing replacement, OEM HID ballasts.

This..... Not only will the bulb mounting be different the projector itself is different and will not have the correct beam pattern using the incorrect bulb. If you do have halogen housings your best bet is to swap them out or you could try swapping the projector inside the housing but that is not a easy job, some skill is required.

Looing at the diagram at Tasca posted looks like the OEM ballast would be on the bottom of the housing as typical of most Fords I've seen. If it's missing it will most likely have the mounting ****** there with a hole into the housing if HID housings and prob still there with no hole if halogen housings.

 

[jman1200]

So I was finally able to determine that although the manual states my SHO came with HID's, it actually came with halogens.
I confirmed the PN and also solved the mystery of the non-working DRL's...
Went to the dealer and what I learned is the the DRL's use the same bulbs as the low/high beams but on a lower voltage (similar to my Mazda 6) and they were not working as the aftermarket HID's wouldn't respond to that low voltage input. Until now, I thought the DRL's ran on the "fogs".
I just ordered a pair of Philips X-treme Vision 9005 which according to the reviews, are one of the brightest halogens out there.
Two new dust caps are also on the way...

Thanks to all for your contributions.

 

[jman1200]

Got the light bulbs yesterday and just replaced both of them.... the trouble head light still doesn't work.
I was convinced the issue was one of the HID ballasts but no, I tried both light bulbs and none worked on the left side, cabin fuses 7 and 8 are ok, engine box fuses 16 and 25 are ok, both relays are working and I can hear the one for the left side. Checked with a tester and fuses 16 and 25 are also getting power.

What else can I check?

 

[92BlackGT]

check for voltage at the connector to the bulb. probably no voltage so gotta look to see if previous owner cut the wiring for the left side to hook up the aftermarket stuff

 

[Johnbigdog]

Just because you have 12s somewhere doesn't mean you have 12V. Keep this in mind. Resistance is a dynamic thing. For example. If you Kink a garden hose slightly with a jet model at the end, when you open the nozzle (switch) for the jet (load) you will get a short burst then a trickle. If you were to measure pressure (voltage) before the nozzle with the circuit off you would have source pressure. It wouldn' be untill you test the system while active (volt drop) will you see the problem.

Now one piece of advice I can give is the headlamp have the same electrical connection. You can swap the lamps to see it the fault follows the lamp or stays with the harness. The lamps on our cars (hologen or High Intensity Discharge) both use a separate shutter circuit. This uncovers part of the beam pattern to get full lamp intensity. It does appear that the right lamp and shutter share the ground at the body. If you can hear both lamps thud, part of that ground is good..

Ground is black. Left headlamp power is violet with read tracer. Right power is red.

There are two relays in the batter junction box that operate the lamps. I assumed you had H.I.D. originally. There are two columns of 4 relays. Second up from the diod side is the left and right relay. Pins 5 and 3 are the control side. Pin 4 of each is a jumper for the D.r.L. ciruit. The smart junction box controls the relays through a F.E.T.

The left Headlamp is grounded through a D.R.L. relay when D.R.Ls are not active. When active this reall provides power to both lamps.

If the left Headlamp has a black with a green tracer you have D.R.L. circuits.

 

[jman1200]

check for voltage at the connector to the bulb. probably no voltage so gotta look to see if previous owner cut the wiring for the left side to hook up the aftermarket stuff

That headlight worked intermittently when I got the vehicle and the HID kit I removed had a clean install, no cut wires.

 

[jman1200]

Just because you have 12s somewhere doesn't mean you have 12V. Keep this in mind. Resistance is a dynamic thing. For example. If you Kink a garden hose slightly with a jet model at the end, when you open the nozzle (switch) for the jet (load) you will get a short burst then a trickle. If you were to measure pressure (voltage) before the nozzle with the circuit off you would have source pressure. It wouldn' be untill you test the system while active (volt drop) will you see the problem.

I measured 11.8 V at the battery terminals and got those same numbers at both fuses (16 and 25), did this with the lights ON. 11.8 seemed low but right light works fine.

Now one piece of advice I can give is the headlamp have the same electrical connection. You can swap the lamps to see it the fault follows the lamp or stays with the harness. The lamps on our cars (hologen or High Intensity Discharge) both use a separate shutter circuit. This uncovers part of the beam pattern to get full lamp intensity. It does appear that the right lamp and shutter share the ground at the body. If you can hear both lamps thud, part of that ground is good..
Ground is black. Left headlamp power is violet with read tracer. Right power is red.

I'm trying to troubleshoot what I can before having to remove the headlights, it is my understanding that the bumper has to come off and there are no videos or pictorial guides on how to do this on the web (that I could find).
I can hear the shutters but haven't really confirmed that the left one is working but turn signal and parking lights work so I'd assume ground is good.
Where are those wires you are referring to? Can they be seen/accessed without removing the headlight?

There are two relays in the batter junction box that operate the lamps. I assumed you had H.I.D. originally. There are two columns of 4 relays. Second up from the diod side is the left and right relay. Pins 5 and 3 are the control side. Pin 4 of each is a jumper for the D.r.L. ciruit. The smart junction box controls the relays through a F.E.T.

The left Headlamp is grounded through a D.R.L. relay when D.R.Ls are not active. When active this reall provides power to both lamps.

If the left Headlamp has a black with a green tracer you have D.R.L. circuits.

I confirmed that my vehicle originally came with halogens and it also came with DRL's. There are two relays (59 and 60), one for each headlight and two relays for the DRL's (64 and 65), I swapped them around and all 4 are in good condition.

 

[bpd1151]

I authored a detailed, step by step "How-To" tutorial on the front bumper removal several years ago.

Check the "How-To" section.

It is written based upon the GEN4 '10-'12 model years, but is still applicable for the GEN5 '13+ years as well.

It's not as involved as you may believe. I had it down to complete removal in 12 minutes.

Moving along, once the bumper cover is removed, removing the head assemblies are quite easy.

From what memory serves, there are 3 bolts that fasten the assemblies to the frame. The heads for each bolt are exposed and easily seen. Unfasten those and wallah!

 

[Johnbigdog]

The wire colors are at the connctor to the lamp assembly.

A rule of thumb is about .5 volts per wire on a loaded volt drop test. But this can be fixed a little.

 

[jman1200]

I authored a detailed, step by step "How-To" tutorial on the front bumper removal several years ago.

Check the "How-To" section.

It is written based upon the GEN4 '10-'12 model years, but is still applicable for the GEN5 '13+ years as well.

It's not as involved as you may believe. I had it down to complete removal in 12 minutes.

Moving along, once the bumper cover is removed, removing the head assemblies are quite easy.

From what memory serves, there are 3 bolts that fasten the assemblies to the frame. The heads for each bolt are exposed and easily seen. Unfasten those and wallah!

@bpd1151 can you please point me to it?
I can't really find a "How To" section in this forum and did a search for "bumper" and your username, a lot of your posts referring to it came up but not the actual post. Also read your pics were hijacked by Photobucket.
Thanks in advance.

 

[bpd1151]

@bpd1151 can you please point me to it?
I can't really find a "How To" section in this forum and did a search for "bumper" and your username, a lot of your posts referring to it came up but not the actual post. Also read your pics were hijacked by Photobucket.
Thanks in advance.

My apologies..... I am on multiple forums for the SHO.

Here is the link.....

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=521.0

 

[jman1200]

I didn't get to remove the bumper today, since I bought the SHO my daughter flees with it as soon as I get home from work...

I was able to do a quick test, both DRL's work ... so both light bulbs are ON with the DRL's, when low beams are turned ON the right light bulb turns ON (power increases) and the left side dies.
Removed the left light bulb, got 14.2 V with the DRL's and then drops to 0 V when low beams are turned ON.

High beam shutter IS working.

If anyone has the electrical schematic for the head light and engine fuse box I'd appreciate if you can share it. I suspect there is some sort of plug for the head lamp and it would be nice to know which one is for the low beams so I can test continuity, I rather not take the bumper off twice.
I'll look for the violet wire with the red tracer as suggested by @Johnbigdog.

 

[Johnbigdog]

This is GREAT info. The right head lamp seems to be working corect. We seem to have a problem with our D.R.L. and leafy headlamp relay.

So my question is is the D.R.L. relay one getting a ground on pin four. D.R.L. One is bottom on the diod side. This relay switches from providing power to both lamps to a ground supply for the left headlamp.

And is the left Headlamp relay clicking? Is there power and ground on pin 1 and 2 of the realy. You could subsitute a small bulb, lile a single filament 3157 for the relay coil and volt drop that bulb. This relay is above the D.R.L. 1 relay.

Thus relay breaks the series circuit for the D.R.L and provides a separate 12 volt power to the lamp.

The second D.R.L. relay powers the shutter so you get all the light from the half powered headlamps. So you should hear the thump of the shutter when turning on and off the lights as the shutter open and close. You should hear them again with the high beams.

 

[jman1200]

Man, I am going to have re-read your message at least 20 times a do a few sketches to fully understand it... how far away are you from the border?

I also noticed that right DRL doesn't work if left light bulb is unplugged.

I'll look into it tomorrow, thanks for the help.