How Do I Take This Apart?

[Best Sho]

Is their any springs that are going to pop out?
Is their anything I should know before pulling it, the camshaft, out? I've never done one before, so I just wanna be sure.

Does the bottom camshaft have to come out too?
Using the arrows in what order am I unscrewing everything?
I just wanna make sure I don't screw anything up.

Thanks Mike

 

[pjtoledo]

For starters, the picture needs to go to the left more so we can see if you pulled the cam sprockets off.
Before that, turn the engine to top dead center. The dot on the crank gear should point to the casting mark at about 5 o'clock, both cam sprocket dots should be straight up next to the lines on the backing plate. Also take note of the cam alignment, their relationship to each other. At the ends by the chains there are flat machined surfaces right next to the cap. When aligned they will be at 90 degrees to the head surface, and both intake and exhaust surfaces will be parallel. The cam retaining caps need to be removed in several small steps as the valve springs are applying pressure differently on different lobes. Start by just cracking all the bolts loose, then go a turn or two on each bolt moving from one end to the other. The purpose is to keep the cam level with the head and relieve the pressure evenly. Nothing should pop out at that point. Keep the caps in order. Oh yeah, most importantly, put some tape over those intake holes, and plug the oil drain holes on the heads too.


Perry

 

[Best Sho]

More Cam Pics and ?'s

Here are 3 more pictures, hope this helps.

I'm still a little lost

1) The bottom front cam has to come out too?
2) The Tensioner on the chain, when that come out? And should I replace it?
3) Since I'm going to have the camshaft out should I replace any of these;
Valve spacers / Valve lifters / Valve keepers / Valve spring retainers /
Valve springs / Exhaust valve seals. Whew!

Did I miss anything in that area?
I know it alot, but I'm trying to learn and since I have it apart.

I had it 2 years and prior I don't know, but I only run Castrol oil and Motorcraft oil filter as per Scott.

Thanks,
No really I ask alot, so really THANKS!

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

1st question: why if you are you taking the cams out anyways if you are confused? Any specific reason? New cams?

 

[GeneSHO]

Is their any springs that are going to pop out?
Is their anything I should know before pulling it, the camshaft, out? I've never done one before, so I just wanna be sure.

Does the bottom camshaft have to come out too?
Using the arrows in what order am I unscrewing everything?
I just wanna make sure I don't screw anything up.

Thanks Mike

Do you reference to a Ford Service Manual for the SHO motor repair ? That will be your detailed guide to RE&RE the cams.
Do you have a replacement cam seal on hand ? Also I take it that your timing belt and all the front end of the motor is apart right now ...

Let the Ford Service Manual be your guide .... :****:

By the way, you did not state why you are removing the cams

 

[yamahaSHO]

There is a specific order in loosening the cam bearing caps. If you don't follow the exact order, you could damage the camshaft. The lobes that are in the down position will still be pushing on the valves/springs and will give you tension. Nothing will pop out at you, but I stress, yet again, you know the proper way to remove them.

Since you do not know what you are doing, I HIGHLY suggest you get a hold of a Helms book before you destroy something.

 

[GeneSHO]

Also please suck out the oil and clean out your sparkplug wells.

 

[Best Sho]

Why I'm Removing Cams!

I want to see if the car will run better without them, just kidding. Ok I'm not a comedian.

Actually one of the bolts broke off in the end of the camshaft. So I'm either having a machine shop drill the end out, pull it out or what ever works. Or I'm getting some from netviper.

Will replacing the cams with another set of cams from a different sho do anything to the engine they will be going in? A friend thought maybe they would mess things around since everything use to the existing cams? Whew!

Another not I have the cd-rom version of the Helms manual and it doesn't sho it or I can find it, that is not taking the intake manifold off, but pulling it apart afterwords. Is there anything I should know about that?

I'm replacing gaskets, wires, plugs etc. So I will clean the oil out first before pulling spark plugs.

Thanks,

Also copied from earlier in this thread,

1) The bottom front cam has to come out too?
2) The Tensioner on the chain, when that come out? And should I replace it?
3) Since I'm going to have the camshaft out should I replace any of these;
Valve spacers / Valve lifters / Valve keepers / Valve spring retainers /
Valve springs / Exhaust valve seals. Whew!

 

[rangerj]

The order in which the camshaft bearing cap bolts are removed is dependent upon the engine being set on TDC. As stated above, if you remove the bolts in the wrong order you could "****" the camshaft (as in bend). So please pay attention to what was said above.

As for replacing parts, you need to determine what if any parts are no longer servicable. If the tensioners are in good shape, why replace them?

The valve seals are not very expensive and should be replaced if they are original. The material they are made of hardens with age and will eventually crack or split, and leak. The valve springs can be tested in order to determine their heigth. They can also be tested in order to determine the amount of tension they have. If they are not within specification they should be replaced, otherwise they can be reused.

The valve keepers are rarely worn or damaged, and usually can be reused. But, if you replace the valves, then replace the keepers. The valves should be reusable and can be ground to specification (a valve job). If you have this done, then have the valve seats and valve guides addressed as well.

I assume you intend to remove the heads. If you do, then have them looked at by a quality machine shop in order to determine if you need a valve job. All of the aforementioned will be considered by the shop, including whether or not the heads are warped, cracked, or otherwise damaged.

While you have the cams out you can "mike" the lobes for wear. You check the high point of the cam lobe at each end, and then in the middle. The smaller measurement in the middle is the amount of wear. See the service manual for the amount of cam lobe wear that is acceptable.

The chains should also be checked for wear. The lifters can also be tested for hydrolic integrity. If they "bleed" down to easily, then they should be replaced. Keep in mind that there are several members of this forum who have in excess of 200,000 miles on their SHO's and have never had the heads off.

It would be easier to address you questions if we knew what you are doing, and why you are doing it. Are you addressing a specific problem? rangerj

 

[Best Sho]

Reply to Why of Camshaft

I want to see if the car will run better without them, just kidding. Ok I'm not a comedian.

Actually one of the bolts broke off in the end of the camshaft. So I'm either having a machine shop drill the end out, pull it out or what ever works. Or I'm getting some from netviper.
Will replacing the cams with another set of cams from a different sho do anything to the engine they will be going in? A friend thought maybe they would mess things around since everything use to the existing cams? Whew!

Another not I have the cd-rom version of the Helms manual and it doesn't sho it or I can find it, that is not taking the intake manifold off, but pulling it apart afterwords. Is there anything I should know about that?

I'm replacing gaskets, wires, plugs etc. So I will clean the oil out first before pulling spark plugs.

Thanks,

Also copied from earlier in this thread,

1) The bottom front cam has to come out too?
2) The Tensioner on the chain, when that come out? And should I replace it?
3) Since I'm going to have the camshaft out should I replace any of these;
Valve spacers / Valve lifters / Valve keepers / Valve spring retainers /
Valve springs / Exhaust valve seals. Whew!

The water pump was replaced 2 yrs ago and was leaking from the back. As I was pulling it apart to replace the water pump seal the bolt broke off in the camshaft seal. So I am pulling the camshaft out to either have a machine drill it or extract it out or to replace it with another camshaft.

Hopefully when replying this time people will take time to read what there answering. Thou I didn't mention the water pump scenerio in this thread, I did mention the bolt broke off in the camshaft. And since I'm not willing to drill it out myself. I think taking it to a machine shop or replacing the camshaft all together would be the next best choice.

Thanks