Hesitation. ive searched.

[rcsavage]

ok guys, back again for more help. my car has developed a hesitation problem. when im running in 3rd or higher and under 3500 rpms, the engine sort of skips, it dies for a millisecond then comes back, then dies again then comes back. when i say die, i don't mean stall i mean just loses all its power.

i can make it hesitate if i put it in 3rd 4th or 5th and while slightly over 2k, give it a little gas, it will hesitate all the way from 2400 to 2900, then 3k gets smooth and at about 3100-3200, its hesitates again.

i pulled the forward bank plug wires and theres no oil at all, the plugs are nice and shiny as well and the wires. i haven't checked the rear bank because of the difficulty to gain access to them. the plug well seals are all brand new(both covers) and were replaced at the same.

i pulled off the electrical connector for the MAF and had the same results.

im a little afraid to think about it but im suspecting the clutch. its a brand new CM1 with less than 10k miles on it. i broke it in correctly and it was holding fine. i let a friend drive the car, who was less than experienced with a manual transmission and he was semi-rough. he only drove it for about 5 miles total (i was in the car) is that long enough to mess up a clutch? he wasnt riding the clutch or anything, just to be clear.

im at wits end with this car. between this and my braking issues im ready to sell it and buy something else. please help!

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Why would you suspect the clutch?

It only takes one plug well with oil to result in 'bucking'.

You should easily be able to check the number 1 cylinder (rear bank). The number 2 cylinder can be checked by removing the firewall shroud and secondaries vacuum canister that is attached along the back plenum (it's actually clipped-in). It's only the number 3 cylinder that's difficult to access without lifting the intake assembly.

I had a very similar intermittent condition after the right-rear subframe bolt pulled-through the plate-nut. As a result of the right-rear corner dropping, the DIS would occasionally contact the passenger-side engine dampner bracket on the right shock-tower. This resulted in an abrupt on-off-on-off-on-.... as if someone was sitting in the back seat flipping a light switch on-and-off. The condition would clear after passing 3000 rpm, or if I continued accelerating using a very light throttle.

 

[rcsavage]

WOW. i just had my right rear plate welded up because it dropped. hmmmmmmmm. mines not so much on off on off but i guess i could switch over the DIS from my parts car. whats the actual stuff to use in between the DIS and crossover?

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Dielectric grease.

NAPA currently has the Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease on sale (p. 45 of their 4th quarter "REAL DEALS" flyer):

• 765-1824 | 0.33 oz. | $4.99 > $3.49
  
  
• 765-1827 | 3.0 oz. | $2.89 > $1.99

Go for the big-tube (and note the price mistake - they have the item descriptions backwards.


NAPA also has PB Blaster on sale for $2.99, and Syntec for $4.99 in their Christmas flyer - ALL good deals ! ! ! !

 

[rcsavage]

thanks alot. ill go buy a tube tomorrow and swap the DIS, if it doesn't work, im sure ill be back.

 

[SHOMurph]

wife's car was doing the same thing last night....

looked under car and kitty kats were glowing red.

off to the exhaust shop.

 

[rcsavage]

alright well i swapped out the DIS and disconnected the battery. and same thing. i also swapped out the TPS to no avail. havent looked at the back plug wells yet, but if thats what you guys think i should check next, i will.

i put a brand new y-pipe on the car less than 5k miles ago.

 

[SHOMurph]

check fuel pressure.

 

[SHOMurph]

also change your ECT sensor. It may be sending a funky signal to your computer.

 

[kzoosho]

maf will do it 2

 

[dpsutphin]

I had a similar problem a couple of years ago. It the bucking goes away when the secondaries open up, you probably have a fuel related problem (either fuel delivery partially blocked, or injector not firing) like I had.

Two things to do, both cheap and easy. Not sure which one fixed mine, but replace the fuel filter first, then follow all the wires from the injectors and tape up anything that even remotely looks worn. Pay special attention to where the wires cross the intake.

Good luck.

And I don't want to get this debate going again, since it has been beat to death here many times, but many of us use computer heat sink paste on the back of the DIS. Works fine, just not in the Ford Manual, but how much of what we do really is...lol.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

But dielectric grease is what the service manual calls for, and it's less expensive.

It can also be used in other locations throughout the electrical system, such as harness connectors - which you cannot do with some thermal pastes, as they are usually aluminum-based (ie. conductive).

Everytime I separate a connector, I clean/replace terminal ends and coat them with dielectric grease before reconnecting the harness.

 

[rcsavage]

i never checked the Fuel pressure, but i just ran the codes. heres what i got:
KOEO:
11
66
67

KOER:
91
77


i know the 77 is for the goose test, i thought i did it but i guess not high enough. will this affect my other codes if i dont rev it high enough? also ran the cylinder balance test and got a perfect 10(well 9)

edit: and as for the code 66, i had the MAF disconnected at one point without reseting the computer.

 

[rcsavage]

in searching, i found this thread where he has the EXACT same symptoms as me.
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=74928&highlight=replacing+fuel+pump

wish he would have posted what fixed it.

 

[rcsavage]

hey guys, i noticed something today. i heard my fuel pump making a whining noise, like it has for awhile, but today i heard it and for split seconds it would stop whining. i watched the tach and couldn't see any drop in rpms when it went silent, but im thinking this is probably my hesitating problem(DUH?!) let me know what you think and if im way off.

 

[houghton33]

I suggest you do fuel pump pressure test with a good guage.
The audible test is not conclusive.

 

[SHOMurph]

I suggest you do fuel pump pressure test with a good guage.
The audible test is not conclusive.

x2 yep on the fuel pressure test....but a perputal whining from the fuel pump is an indication that your fuel pump may be tired.

If your fuel pressure is low go ahead and drive out the gas in the tank then replace along with your fuel filter. A full tank is a beyotch when replacing the fuel pump.

 

[rcsavage]

sounds good guys. how hard is the SHONUT FPR to install, im thinking about a 190 LPH pump.

 

[shovermont]

overkill, no point the one from autozone is mint. stock is plenty of fuel. the stock fuel pump can handle 300+hp im pretty sure. check this out
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=76915&highlight=fuel+pump+modification

also if you wanna do a modification of a cutout in the rear seat so you dont have to drop the tank its not bad. i have one and it works great, can change it with a full tank.

 

[SHOMurph]

overkill, no point the one from autozone is mint. stock is plenty of fuel. the stock fuel pump can handle 300+hp im pretty sure. check this out
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=76915&highlight=fuel+pump+modification

also if you wanna do a modification of a cutout in the rear seat so you dont have to drop the tank its not bad. i have one and it works great, can change it with a full tank.

Stock fuel pump is fine with bolt ons but if you start juicing or going further you definately need to upgrade.