I appreciate it. A quick question. So in no way would it be the ECM/EEC? Because the mech told me he ran a boat load of test and said, he would believe it to be the brain box, or maybe continuity of the wires going back to the pump. Just wondering. I cant really test anything my battery is dead.Here's some threads for checking the fuel pump. The last post has the pin outs for the CCRM
Won't start, code: 542
Well, its an issue with the fuell pump or related circitry. THe code is a 542; fuel pump secondary circut failure, EAC to ground? What exactly does this mean? The car started at first, then I stalled it and it wouldn't restart. I noticed that when the key is turned on the fuel pump was not...shoforum.com
ccrm
I had a no fuel pump working issue. I purchased a new one from shosource. It powered the FP one day but not the next. I tested in and outputs per info found on site. I found all testing to be correct accept can't get pwr output on pin 5. Could something short out the new ccrm and how to find...
IRCM/CCRM details
So the ccrm that came on the car when I bought it broke, it had a letter M on it and I have now found out that is the right one for my 93 mtx. I bought a module with a J on it from a junk yard and it works but my car isnt recognizing the new cps it seems like. I just wanted to know what will...
Maybe you can check if fuel is making it to the fuel pressure regulator by loosening a bit and see if fuel comes out at the bottom. It can be removed with the intake still on, its tricky, but can be done
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It could be, just trying some suggestions before going to the ECU. There are some other post checking the output from the ECU, need to search for them
Thanks again. And enjoy the rest of your evening.
here are some post that have some background on the CCRM and ECU/PCM
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Fuel Pump cutting in and out.
Hi everyone! Most issues with my SHO I can solve with some searching these forums, but this one is beyond me. The car has a bit of a stutter at low RPM but is still drivable. I have just been telling myself that this is due to there being oil in the spark plug wells and I will fix this when I...
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Fuel supply question
Hello. My 1993 sho has been running great lately, but this morning I notices the FP did not shut off like it always has it just kept running. The car starts and runs find so I was wondering if anything bad can happen if I keep driving like that ?
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I have the SHO ghost smh
It's hard to ultimately diagnose a fuel supply issue unless you have a remote fuel pressure gauge that can be observed while driving, so you can stomp the pedal for a 0-65 run. A particular type of driving that illuminates the CEL and sets the code? Does the CEL cycle on and off? If the 542...
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luigisho
SHO Member
If that picture is the current module then that looks to be correct. I would love to see the computer codes. Is there, and if there is I wonder what, the pressure is at the fuel rail. Even with the car not running. So the pump primes, after that it should go to the regulator, the rails, the injectors. There are injector driver functions in the computer. The heat facor is confusing but maybe I can't square it in my brain to make the connection.
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Thanks the mechanic those it was not the right one. Because of an easy mistake. But I'm going to take out the ECC to check for any short circuits I just got a feeling thats my culprit. Do you know where to find it? Could I follow the wire used to check for codes back to where the EEC is located?
luigisho
SHO Member
Trying to streamline this question to determine what you need to know.
All the wiring to and from the computer go into a big plug that is on the firewall, passenger side, and plugs into the computer located on the opposite side behind the glovebox. I mean if you are looking to probe for voltage signals you can do it from the wiring first and work back or probe the pins and go forward.
You can empty the glove box push the sides inward so the parts that run through the track can allow the box lid to hang down by its lower hinge. There should be a pinout diagram to allow you to test which pin for which function. If you want to remove the computer you will have to unscrew the wiring harness plug --there is an integrated bolt in teh middle of the plug that threads into the back of the computer to prevent anything from detaching. Then you can remove the computer on the other side. It came with a small plastic clip to support the interior facing end of the computer and only has a small screw to remove. Many cars that had tuning eprom computer chips plugged into the rear port at some time may not have that clip anymore.
TLDR- I always try to make it a point to have an extra PCM (computer), CCRM, and -when they were affordable- an extra crank sensor. You never know. MTX computer should work for most others unless there is extra Cali. emissions from back then (maybe).
All the wiring to and from the computer go into a big plug that is on the firewall, passenger side, and plugs into the computer located on the opposite side behind the glovebox. I mean if you are looking to probe for voltage signals you can do it from the wiring first and work back or probe the pins and go forward.
You can empty the glove box push the sides inward so the parts that run through the track can allow the box lid to hang down by its lower hinge. There should be a pinout diagram to allow you to test which pin for which function. If you want to remove the computer you will have to unscrew the wiring harness plug --there is an integrated bolt in teh middle of the plug that threads into the back of the computer to prevent anything from detaching. Then you can remove the computer on the other side. It came with a small plastic clip to support the interior facing end of the computer and only has a small screw to remove. Many cars that had tuning eprom computer chips plugged into the rear port at some time may not have that clip anymore.
TLDR- I always try to make it a point to have an extra PCM (computer), CCRM, and -when they were affordable- an extra crank sensor. You never know. MTX computer should work for most others unless there is extra Cali. emissions from back then (maybe).
Okay thanks. We've been a tremendous source of information. Again thanks
Dpangbur
New Member
Are you getting voltage to the fuel pump at key on?
If not, check for an inertia switch. This safety switch trips open like a circuit breaker during a crash (or maybe hammer strike or even door / trunk slam) and they sometimes fail open. This would be one potential cause for no voltage going to the pump.
2013 MKS ecoboost
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If not, check for an inertia switch. This safety switch trips open like a circuit breaker during a crash (or maybe hammer strike or even door / trunk slam) and they sometimes fail open. This would be one potential cause for no voltage going to the pump.
2013 MKS ecoboost
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FastCAD
SHO Member
u should check for codes before you start throwing $$$.
your symptoms of running and then getting hot and stalling and then starting later is very much like a bad crank sensor. get your codes.
did you overheat or replace your water pump lately?
p.s. if your computer is bad it probably will not put out any codes.
The mechanic said that the inertia switch was good. Just not getting power from the ignition or from brain box to relay.
Hey got a another pcm. Once I a got my battery charged cranked it. And it just cranked. Didn't even attempt to turn over. The fuel is at the rail pressed the bleeder valve up top. Its seems like it not getting spark? Is there a certain amount of time I should wait before I can expect for it to start?
FastCAD
SHO Member
a (K)ey (O)n (E)ngine (O)ff code test would be in order. if you don't have a code reader then do a self test with a paperclip.
use jumper wire on EEC test connector or (paper clip) between the top pin and the single wire. turn ignition to on. the CE light will flash ready once the then each code will flash quickly (twice) then the next code will follow the same.
luigisho
SHO Member
A faulty cam sensor will not sense which cylinder to fire first and that could require many attempts to stumble into the correct position. YOu have to attempt many times to catch it IF it is the cam sensor. Seems like not getting spark or not getting spark? There are testers for this. Pressing the valve is not measuring pressure but I'm not sure if that is the issue. Do you have computer codes?
Usual suspects with hard to start: starter, battery, alt., cam sensor, crank sensor, DIS
Usual suspects with stalling while driving: Crank sensor, wiring/ground issue, Maybe cam sensor (usually fluttering and tach issues)
Usual suspects with hard to start: starter, battery, alt., cam sensor, crank sensor, DIS
Usual suspects with stalling while driving: Crank sensor, wiring/ground issue, Maybe cam sensor (usually fluttering and tach issues)
luigisho
SHO Member
There are stored codes and codes while running.
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