Help the new guy with a few codes please

[go-to]

I'm not new to working on cars, but certainly new to the SHO. My car is a '94 ATX.

I have already searched through a bunch of threads and found some very helpful information from people with very similar issues, but no real solutions yet.

In an effort to not clog up another thread...I'll start a new one.

Purchased car (sitting 8yrs) and drove home from Atlanta, Georgia to Louisiana with minimal issues...great MPG too.

The check engine light randomly turned on/off the entire trip home.

Fast forward to now after I've done all of the 60k service and beyond.

The check engine light still randomly turns on/off, but the car no longer loses tach signal or shuts down (I've changed the cam and crank sensor).

Pulled codes and have

172 (both O2 sensors are brand new Bosch changed about a couple months ago)

214 (changed cam sensor about a month ago, there was oil and changed cam seal)

556 (I haven't looked into the fuel pump relay primary circuit yet) The relay module is bolted to the radiator support correct? When I cycle the ignition, the fuel pump thunks very loudly and when running whines pretty loudly as well. The fuel pump engages every time.

I'm thinking of rewiring the cam sensor...does anyone have digital version of the wiring I can go off of?

I have cleared these codes in different ways (battery and scan tool) and these (3) codes always return.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[rubydist]

172 = lean on right (rear) bank
214 = cid circuit failure
556 = fuel pump primary circuit failure

just because you changed out the oxy sensors does not mean that one is not bad - infant failures do occur from time to time. the other possibility is a vacuum leak that only affects the rear bank (note that this could also be an exhaust leak that sucks in fresh air.)

again, just because the cam sensor is new does not mean its good, I have heard of several infant failures in these. if not that, then you have a wiring issue, which is also a possibility. there is another thread on the topic where I posted the wiring info within the past month.

I have never seen the 556 before, so I'm not going to be much help except to encourage you to get that resolved before the fuel pump just quits one day and you end up walking. the ccrm is indeed on the upper radiator support, and if the pump is making a bunch of noise (and given that it sat for years) I think I would replace the pump. I prefer the "cut the floor under the rear seat" method rather than the "drop the tank" method, but both have advantages.

 

[bluemoney]

Agree

I agree with the above from rubydist. I would change the pump and filter, they make a higher volume one for the same price. I have seen the relay modules go bad and the fuel pump relay is in it. It takes a lot of heat from the radiator. I have a full set of Ford Factory prints but haven't scanned them yet. If in SoCal you can barrow them.

 

[go-to]

Thanks for the information, and I'm in Louisiana.

I was going to get into the relay module yesterday, but realized I'd have to drill out the bottom plate and didn't have time for that. I've started testing wiring already...this is an old but still complicated system to trace out.

In case you were wondering, I have 20+ years reverse-engineering industrial electronics so tracing out the PCB and remaking my own would be simple for me. If you talk high-tech on these pieces don't be afraid that I won't understand. hehe

I was intending to take apart the relay module and test/replace all the high-wear components (relays) just in case.

Also, the fuel pump is on my short list of items to change. I have access to a lift, so dropping the tank is not an issue.

Again, thanks!

 

[sperold]

My best luck with O2 sensors have been with the Ford brand (Motorcraft I think) and next with Denso. I had bad luck with a garage installed pair (one was Bosch and the other had no markings) and my CEL light would come on when the RPM dropped below 2000.

If it does not take a lot of trys to start, and you have a tach signal while rolling over when starting, and your tach does not quit on you, then your cam sensor is working pretty good despite the CEL.
The cam sensor will never shut your car down, only the crank sensor has that distinction.

I had a lot of trouble getting that big retaining ring off the fuel tank attachment point for the pump assembly, so taking the tank out was a good idea for me. But since you are not in the rot zone, you could cut that hole under the back seat and reinforce it while the tank is out, in case you get a bad pump. Once that big ring is off once, it works well the 2nd time.

 

[go-to]

My best luck with O2 sensors have been with the Ford brand (Motorcraft I think) and next with Denso. I had bad luck with a garage installed pair (one was Bosch and the other had no markings) and my CEL light would come on when the RPM dropped below 2000.

If it does not take a lot of trys to start, and you have a tach signal while rolling over when starting, and your tach does not quit on you, then your cam sensor is working pretty good despite the CEL.
The cam sensor will never shut your car down, only the crank sensor has that distinction.

I had a lot of trouble getting that big retaining ring off the fuel tank attachment point for the pump assembly, so taking the tank out was a good idea for me. But since you are not in the rot zone, you could cut that hole under the back seat and reinforce it while the tank is out, in case you get a bad pump. Once that big ring is off once, it works well the 2nd time.

My car *was* shutting down on me and tach quit before changing the cam and crank sensors. Car starts first try and never has trouble...once recently I shut the car off when the CEL came on and it would only sputter when I tried to start it. Never has done that again.

 

[rubydist]

The cam sensor will never shut your car down, only the crank sensor has that distinction.

Unfortunately, that is not quite true. A dead cam sensor will not shut down the engine - in fact it will have no effect at all except for a dead tach.

However, a sick cam sensor can wreak all sorts of havoc, causing the dis to change spark timing all over the map, which in some cases can/will result in an engine shutdown.

And, since his code is for the wiring circuit failing, I don't know which of the above categories it may fall into...

 

[tompumped]

Interesting^.

I want to see a write up on how to fix the ccrm, so you should tackle it.

One thing you're supposed to use brass to remove that retaining ring, but I never do.


I used to think it was ******** to cut a hole in your floor because it's easy to drop the tank on these cars. I thought it was a safety issue, but I think if you get hit that hard you've got other things to worry about. There was a big argument about it on thirdgen.org iirc and I decided against it on my f body.

 

[go-to]

Interesting^.

I want to see a write up on how to fix the ccrm, so you should tackle it.

One thing you're supposed to use brass to remove that retaining ring, but I never do.


I used to think it was ******** to cut a hole in your floor because it's easy to drop the tank on these cars. I thought it was a safety issue, but I think if you get hit that hard you've got other things to worry about. There was a big argument about it on thirdgen.org iirc and I decided against it on my f body.

I'll get to the CCRM as time permits...the end of the year is hectic at work for me. If I had a known good replacement, I'd install it and work on mine that is possibly suspect.

My brother and I have never used a brass piece when knocking that gas tank ring loose...I understand the reason why, but never have.

 

[K-Dawg]

Maybe try messing with all of the wiring connections. Jiggle them around (with the car running and someone watching the CEL) and clean the connectors.

 

[go-to]

I have been doing that.

Maybe try messing with all of the wiring connections. Jiggle them around (with the car running and someone watching the CEL) and clean the connectors.

 

[rubydist]

I have some J code ccrms in my for-sale thread. they eventually fail so its a good idea to have a spare anyway...

 

[go-to]

I have some J code ccrms in my for-sale thread. they eventually fail so its a good idea to have a spare anyway...

I'll take one, PM coming your way.

 

[go-to]

I still need assistance with wiring diagrams, specifically for the cam sensor to ECU wiring. Anybody?

 

[rubydist]

I just posted that in another thread within the last couple of months - do a little searching 'cause I have forgotten which thread it was in...

 

[go-to]

Found it thanks.

 

[go-to]

Ok, so went pulling on wires and ohming out connections. I put a new cam sensor in this past July (not even 3 months) and the tach has started to drop off and the car left me in the middle of rush-hour traffic yesterday. Unplugged the sensor, started the car, and drove home. Leaving it unplugged lets me drive around without the car dying, plug it back in and shortly the tach will drop out and the car will shut down.

The connections all seems OK and I will keep tracking it down as time permits.

For the time being I'll buy and install a new Delphi cam sensor.

 

[go-to]

I put the new Delphi cam sensor in and all is good with the world again...the cam sensor I bought from Advance sure didn't last long!

Also, the new Bosch 02 sensors may not be kosher with the SHO either.

One thing is for sure, this car is *super* picky about the sensors. I'm ordering a Ford 02 sensor and we will see what that does with the code on that one.

Also, now that I'm back home after being out for work for nearly a month, I can focus some on this.

I'll get a spare relay module from Fred and open it up and begin the reverse engineering process. Just for my own sake. I'll likely upgrade/update all the relays and components inside just because I can and want to.

I haven't reset my codes since replacing the cam sensor, but I'll get to that tonight.

 

[SHOdded]

I'll get a spare relay module from Fred and open it up and begin the reverse engineering process. Just for my own sake. I'll likely upgrade/update all the relays and components inside just because I can and want to.

And it is a fair expectation that you will make copious journal entries on this forum during this process :woo-hoo:

Aftermarket (mass market) parts for the SHO don't generally hold up as well as OEM, sometimes they improve upon OEM, but not a frequent occurrence. Hope your cam sensor lives long and prospers!

 

[sperold]

I too would like that relay issue explored. The days of just getting another one are nearing an end, and it would be nice to have an alternative.
TIA.