Help removing oil pan....

[SHO SPD]

Ok, I have all the bolts out, I am not removing the Y-pipe, and I have all 10 12mm bolts out, an the 4 nuts on the corners,... do I need to pry it off with something? I am that close to seeing the destruction eek!

<small>[ April 09, 2002, 10:24 PM: Message edited by: SHO SPD ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

I had to remove the Y-pipe and the starter to get the oil pan clear. The procedure also identifies these as needing to come off first. Be careful, there is a 12mm bolt on the rear side of the oil pan, hiding up in the joint between the oil pan and the flywheel housing. Visit the link below and looking at the picture of the oil pan, make sure you have removed all of the bolting that has a hole in the ****** of the oil pan.

http://www.shoforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=17;t=001375

 

[SHO SPD]

Yep, I got that bolt off, had to use a small ratchet.. there is NO way to go around the y-pipe? theres room in mine to work around it, it ays t remve it, but I gotall the bolts off behind it.. Iid have to remove the starter.

Do I have to pry to get the oil pan off?

 

[sdpatt]

Yes, I did have to use a screwdriver to pry the pan off. Remember that it is held on by RTV all the way down each side. The only rubber seals are on the ends. Be careful to pry only on those areas not responsible for contributing a sealing surface. My pan was a very snug interference fit after it was loose. I had to position it in a very particular way to get it to clear the interferences. Same problem going back on. There is probably not a chance you can get it off without removing the Y-pipe, but hey, if you want to give it a try....

Scott

 

[SHO SPD]

I think my ATX has more room around the y=pipe than my MTX did, so if it doesnt work, oh well, its comming off, but after I get out of school, well see what happens.. then pry for minimal damage (which I know wont be minimal)

 

[AutoXSHO]

I have to agree with Scott 100%. It was a pain getting the pan back on, because with the axle shafts, the transmission, the flywheel inspection cover and the y-pipe the car conspires to make you put the oil pan on a specific way.

Oh, did I forget to mention the pickup tube?

You MUST remove the y-pipe to get the pan off, there is no way around it. The y-pipe is so easy to drop anyway as long as the studs aren't seized. Once you get in there take your time and remove one rod cap at a time and inspect the bearings. I suspect you will find one that is spun and it will stick out like a sore thumb.

I don't recommend using a screwdriver to get the pan off if you can avoid it. The pan is aluminum and is easily scratched and marred. I used a rubber mallet and tapped the side of the pan to persuade it loose.

John V

 

[FordLover]

SHO SPD:
Ok, I have all the bolts out, I am not removing the Y-pipe, and I have all 10 12mm bolts out, an the 4 nuts on the corners,... do I need to pry it off with something? I am that close to seeing the destruction eek!

Remove the y-pipe, you'll thank me later. The bottom end of these motors is STRONG. There is a girdle spaning the main bearing caps, and multiple windage trays, and the pickup tube goes through the lower one (at least on the 3.2 motor). I had the engine on a stand and it took me about 30 seconds to wiggle the pan just right so it would come off of the block. I think you'd be under there for quite a bit longer with the y-pipe on.
-Martin

 

[SHO SPD]

Alrighty, I got the pan off, yes I had to take the Y-pipe off, there was just no way the pan is comming out with the pipe on...but I have a question, can I see the crank when I remove the bearings? I know that I have atleast 4 bad bearings, I can wiggle them around, so will I be able to see if the crank is damged once the bearing is off?

 

[RJ-92]

SHO SPD:
Alrighty, I got the pan off, yes I had to take the Y-pipe off, there was just no way the pan is comming out with the pipe on...but I have a question, can I see the crank when I remove the bearings? I know that I have atleast 4 bad bearings, I can wiggle them around, so will I be able to see if the crank is damged once the bearing is off?

Matt,

Under most circumstances, yes, but not necessarily. If there is massave dammage it will be visually evident. But this doesn't mean that there wont be any dammage if you don't see any. I can't really go into particulars on this. Here's where I let somone with more knowledge step in...