Heat problem PLEASE HELP!!!!!

[SHOFF]

Ok my car was stalling out when i was driving it. I did it most of the time when i would come up to a corner. THe tach would just drop before the car stalled, and the car would not start for like half an hour then it would run really bad, and usually stall out again. If i left over night it would run like a champ for about half an hour and do the same thing again. Anyways i changed the cps and it still does the same thing. Im starting to run out of ideas maybe a DIS went bad, or maybe i didnt put enough grease on it and its over heating? PLEASE HELP frown

 

[Twisted99]

Bite the bullet and pull the crank position sensor ..chanhge the belt and h2o pump along with the front oil seal while you have it apart. I just went through this NO start stuff and you will fail to start sooner than you think. No jive .

 

[CharlieSHO95]

The cam position sensor can cause stalling similar to the CPS. I've had the cam position sensor problem on two different cars. The second time it happened to me, the tach went to 200 rpm when cranking with no start and also left a code. After the engine cooled off, it started and ran fine. Your problem doesn't sound exactly like what I experienced, but it could be a possibility. Very easy to change also. Good luck.

 

[thebetterman]

It could also be the feul pump. As the pump heats up it could fail and cause the car to sputter and stall. After the pump cools off again it will start up. I've heard of this happen to several sho's and even some non-sho's.

 

[SHOFF]

its defiently an electrical issue it does not fire when this happens, i also changed the cam sensor last summer

 

[Twisted99]

Like I suggested...stop agonizing over the problem and dig in. I replaced My year old Cam Position Sensor..pulled the fuel filter and changed it..measured pressure and did a volume test on the pump. It has 162000 on it. Works fine.
I put in a new Ignition module. Ohmed out the plug wire and coil paks. I dreaded pulling the Crank Position Sensor. Guess what ?
It was of cpourse the Crank Position Sensor.
Get a remanned pump..a new front seal..a sensor..a timing belt..and figure out the rest.

<small>[ June 29, 2002, 08:35 PM: Message edited by: Twisted99 ]</small>

 

[BeatDaSHO]

dude.......i almost had the same problem as u but i didn't let it get that far. i replaced my crank position sensor and decided eh what the heck i'll replace my water pump. turns out, the water pump was leaking coolant right onto the cps and shorting it out. So if i hadn't replaced that water pump then the new cps would have failed right away also. So that is probably your problem. check your codes. The PIP sensor might have shown up.

Greg

 

[SHOFF]

i changed the cps last friday it still does the same exact thing.

 

[Slo-Sho]

What did you set the gap to?

 

[SHOFF]

i accually had a shop do it so im not sure. What is it suspose to be?

 

[Slo-Sho]

.30" is acceptable. Did you get the old part back? The CPS is a PITA to get to.

 

[projectSHO89]

.30" is acceptable.

Actually it should be .030", not 3/10th of an inch.

Steve

 

[SHOFF]

yes i got it back and im sure he changed it because the mechanic wasnt very happy

 

[KYSHO]

The post doesn't say if you pulled the codes or not. If you haven't then start there.

 

[Twisted99]

Did it crank after you had the shop change the sensor? They have to pull the timing belt to change it. If they did. Maybe they gilflirted the timing.

 

[SHOFF]

Yes it started right back up, he let it run outside and after half an hour it shuts off. After u let it set for a couple of hours it will start back up