Hard Starting, but runs No Tach

[apeterson]

First off, I want to say you guys have a God Send for me over the last 2 weeks, helping me solve my problems with my SHO. A month ago, the car stalling,but would generally restart after a few minutes. Codes were 212 and 214, I mistakely believed that it was the DIS, after $180 wasted on it. I realized that that it was the CPS due to leaking water pump, only because I found your web site. So last weekend, I tore in the front end and replaced the CPS, CID, Water Pump and Timing Belt. I verified that all three white lines on the timing belt matched the dots on the pulleys, gapped the CPS at .03 and everything went back togather and it started on the first try. Test drove and everything was fine. The next day I drove to work, everything fine till I was heading home. The car started to miss and then it died. It was hard to start but was able to get it to run and the only code that that time was 512 or 514 sometime about memory test failure. I got it off the freeway and check all the connector. At this point still hard to start, like the timing is way advanced and new codes came up the old 212 and 214. Also the Tach stopped working but the engine was running... I was able to drive it home but had to be careful to keep it from pinging. I try starting it today, same thing..hard to start, like it's advanced, but will start and run fine, but CEL comes on and stays on and no tach. Please help, can't believe that I need to replace the CPS.
Thanks in Advance
Al

 

[Yamaha V6]

I'd hazard a guess the CPS screws weren't tight, or you routed the CPS incorrectly & the timing belt is eating through it. Check the cam sensor connector first before diving in, make sure everything's connected (grounds, etc.) & then get the upper & lower timing covers off & check the routing & integrity of the CPS vs. the crank gear's vanes & routing of the CPS (routes the CPS outside of the middle cover to keep it away from the timing belt).

Good luck!

 

[sdpatt]

With both of those codes, I would look closely at the DIS, its connections and ground path. Check the two 12mm bolts that hold the intake crossover tube to the plenums and the ground strap to the upper, rear manifold bracket bolt.

 

[rendyx]

Definately check the DIS. It drives the tach, and thus you won't have a working tach if it's down. You could remove the unit and try applying conductive heat sink compound (shojuan has suggested Arctic Silver) behind it, or even lapping the unit and the manifold where they touch. Basically, place some VERY smooth sandpaper on a piece of glass, and use this to sand the two sides to perfect flatness. Be careful not to get aluminum all over your belts and such.

This, however, is only if the ground is the issue. I believe Autozone may test it for you too, you'd have to check. Good luck!

 

[projectSHO89]

Additionally,

Your symptom is of a failed CID sensor (difficulty starting and no tach).

Unplug the sensor and see what happens. If the symptom stays the same, you've found the problem.

If the input from the CPS is lost, the engine simply WILL NOT RUN. There is no failsafe mechanism for its failure.

Make sure you check what Scott mentioned.

Also, I posted a manual testing procedure for the CPS and CID sensors awile back. Maybe you can SEARCH for them and see if the procedure helps.

The DIS indeed does drive the tach, however, it requires both the CID and CPS signals as inputs in order to generate the IDM signal. IDM is used both to drive the tach and to keep the PCM apprised of DIS performance.

The application of the heat sink compund has nothing to do with the issues of proper grounding. It is used to insure proper heat transfer to the crossover tube so that the DIS does not fail due to internal heat retention.

Steve

<small>[ April 02, 2003, 03:36 PM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>

 

[DougLee25]

I agree with ProjectSHO89, check your CID sensor. I had the exact same hard start/no tach situation. The sensor corrected the problem.

Doug

 

[apeterson]

Thanks to everyone to posted a reply to my question....It help me so much, Steve was correct in guiding me to look at the CID. When I installed the new one, I remember having problems pushing the connector on. When I checked it last night, the connector was loose, and in checking the connector I realized that I failed to remove the old seal was still in the connector and the new seal has one, so there where two seals keeping the connector from staying on....Lesson learned. Now I can love my SHO again.