yaycandy
Aerospace Engineer
For me, I went with the EPP intake because the stock intake was leaking in many places! I’m not sure how common that is though?
A big reason why i went with this setup, those plastic collectors and couplings are terrible.
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For me, I went with the EPP intake because the stock intake was leaking in many places! I’m not sure how common that is though?
How because the intake can flow more air now? The stock airbox and y pipe is more restrictive than this setup. The heat that these dual intakes are exposed to is not going to limit the amount of air the turbos can flow and compress vs the stock air box and y pipe system. More power can be made on the increased amount of air the turbos can now flow and compress in a turbocharged setup vs potentially 15-30 degree higher intake air temps with a stock restrictive airbox and y pipe.
Its still alot cooler than my stock intercooler and sealed roush intake. I have a sealed intake for these. Installing today, a good intercooler wouldnt matter if the filters are in the engine bay. At boost. Idle its warmer.
Ive dyno tested it. It making more power than my stock setup and cooler temps than gh intercooler at full boost via my tuner guy.
Also have the v3 meth kit im adding soon anyway.
You guys are straight up winey babys, ill continue my development. Reason why i didnt share it months ago. I dont need publicity, these pictures are mostly from months ago.
Aaron, I am sorry but you are not reinventing the wheel with this. Post the data backing up your claims. Gayle Banks has way more time and way more experience with intakes then all of us. If you sent him that, he would laugh, and tell you to extend it out of the engine compartment and isolate it from engine heat. The stock air box is more than efficient for the size of the stock turbos on our cars. It flows more with a K&N drop in then the stock turbos can use, at a lower temp because it is isolated better from heat.
With that being said, if you dyno that set up and a stock air box set up (tune unchanged) on a heat soaked car it will lose power, esp on 91. I am willing to put money on it.


Aaron,
I am not going to sit here and debate your about math. I deal in real world results. Things look great on paper the majority of the time......
So tell you what.
Dyno and draggy the car with your intake set up vs a stock box K&N drop set up both heat soaked. Tell us what happens.
Bet your intake set up will be slower and make less power.
If you want data....do below.
Put a temp probe in your intake pre-turbo. Put a probe pre IC and post IC for all the data points. Run it on the dyno and a street pull using a draggy.
Do the same test the same day with a stock air box and K&N tune unchanged.
Things on paper do not always translate to actual real world results.
Stock airbox is good to like 550hp or more. **** I can't find any non manufacturer dynos that show more than 5hp at red line gain from stock box vs full Cai. Most of those also show slight loss on low end... Who knows man.
You asked for proof and calculations/data to back it up and I provided that. Everyone is free to make their own decision on what setup works best for their budget and performance goals. Math doesn't lie and the airbox cover is not the secret to untold bounds of additional hp over not using a cover.Aaron,
I am not going to sit here and debate your about math. I deal in real world results. Things look great on paper the majority of the time......
So tell you what.
Dyno and draggy the car with your intake set up vs a stock box K&N drop set up both heat soaked. Tell us what happens.
Bet your intake set up will be slower and make less power.
If you want data....do below.
Put a temp probe in your intake pre-turbo. Put a probe pre IC and post IC for all the data points. Run it on the dyno and a street pull using a draggy.
Do the same test the same day with a stock air box and K&N tune unchanged.
Things on paper do not always translate to actual real world results.

EPP is purely for sound and looks

Math doesn't lie

Looks likes a change at redline to me.
Go at it arm chair warriors.
My dyno run as stated had my version 1 sealed box. Up to version 3 now. Needs a few more tweaks.
Remember the picture of my intake up above is months old, i sent Easton the pic 2 months ago.
Love ya Easton, just trying to show whats possible if its a gain or not.
I gotta get back to the grind on my 90 sho, 2 months to go on this full restoration
View attachment 18113
Maybe I'm high, maybe I'm high or you that read wrong. Either way, I didn't know that you had a 2011 SHO with a K&n intake!!
I thought we discussed what you were slackjaw-engineerin!
Thats from K&Ns website, they dyno all their intake products. My roush intake had a dyno sheet with it saying 16hp gain, K&N says 12hp gain. Airaid showed similar to roush as its the same other than a non carb approved filter material.
Just showed how there is a gain from a cold air intake on a dyno. Probably higher gain actually driving with "cold" air.
My performance shop who installed my engine has a few dyno rooms and told me the fans they use are for the radiators, not to simulate cold air for the intake. Told me all cold air intake dyno testing is lower than what it would be actually driving.
Im high on something, wait till you eventually see what parts i got in today for my more current development. Blow some brains but itll get feedback of all kinds lol.
I just do it to do it, lots of people view the forum daily who aint members and im just trying to again...sho what is possible, hp gain or not.
Well manufacturer dyno their own products....it's kinda like they can make up the numbers lol to sell products
Nobody believes them except for the people that want to feeeel justified for spending 100$ per hp gained.
Most of the effective cold air gains driving are ram air effects being that ambient is ambient without meth.
I deffienitly dint get no faster with meth, hard to thinker
I don't see what that formula describing flow through a positive displacement compressor has to do with flow through a centrifugal turbocharger, but that's besides the point. These engines are very heavily knock limited, and air charge temp is a critical component to that (hence why intercoolers exist). A 30 degree increase in compressor intake = a compressor discharge increase of 40 degrees or more. Spark efficiency is huge. So the simple concern about temperatures is a very valid one. But if your intercooler is up to the task then I imagine intake temperature might not matter too muchEaston,
Please see below for those calculations which do back up my claims.
View attachment 18110
View attachment 18111
I don't see what that formula describing flow through a positive displacement compressor has to do with flow through a centrifugal turbocharger, but that's besides the point. These engines are very heavily knock limited, and air charge temp is a critical component to that (hence why intercoolers exist). A 30 degree increase in compressor intake = a compressor discharge increase of 40 degrees or more. Spark efficiency is huge. So the simple concern about temperatures is a very valid one. But if your intercooler is up to the task then I imagine intake temperature might not matter too much
Thats what i was always told, it dosnt matter the pre turbo temps if the intercooler can still cool it to your needs. I see tons of cars at the track with a huge turbo just sitting there next to the exhaust manifold. When i ask about intake temps they tell me it dosnt affect it because post turbo setup is expecting the heat.
Water meth also helps alot
Like I said earlier. Fuel is the work around for hot intake temps. On pump it is a different story.
Understood. The car loses power around 100 degrees iat2 from my understanding with Brad. Im seeing 60 degrees iat2 at near full boost...
Maybe more in summer when i check next, but its a fully heatshielded setup now anyway.
Thanks for the criticism guys, i needed it to get me through the last days of development correctly. I can always count on it here.
I just wanna have something different!