Getting really hot

[COliveira95]

Hey all, I've had a problem with my car ever since I did the 3.2 swap. I installed a dual core radiator, new motorcraft t-stat, new coolant temp sensor, and fairly new water pump. The car gets really hot, almost up to the H before the fan kicks on. The car always stays up there as well unless I'm on the highway. I'm going to be installing an aftermarket water temp gauge soon, I should have accurate numbers that way. Any ideas why the car gets so hot?

 

[yamahaSHO]

Almost sounds like you got a faulty ECT... May want to try another one.

 

[COliveira95]

Almost sounds like you got a faulty ECT... May want to try another one.

Jason, took your word for it and replaced the ECT. The car still runs hot and the fans only come on up near the H on the temp gauge. I've taken a few pics and will post them later on tonight when I get home to upload them. Any other ideas? Possible CCRM failure? The car has a brand new dual core radiator, brand new motorcraft t-stat and sending unit, brand new ECT, topped with 50/50 Zerex orange coolant, brand new water pump and upper and lower hoses.

 

[sdpatt]

You may want to try replacing the temperature sender for the gauge. If the gauge is up to the "H" before the fans are activating, the gauge is probably reading too high.

I just replaced the $3 temperature sender on my SHO for the first time in its 13 years and 289,000 miles. The original sender was not letting the gauge read in the NORMAL range during steady state operation. I know the coolant temperature was at the 180F thermostat setpoint because I recently repalced the t'stat and I measured the temperature with an RTD.

After installing the new sender. I am having to recalibrate my own perceptions since the needle now points to the low side of the M at the same 180F level. I think I will try another of these very inexpensive senders to get the needle a bit lower on the gauge at the 180F temperature.

The replacement of this sender is very simple and requires only the loosening of the 8mm hose clamp on the throttle body and unclipping the two clips on the air filter lid, unclipping the MAF connector and throttle position sensor connector, removing the air filter lid and connecting hose, moving the hose clamp and the 3/4" coolant hose under the throttle body (that routes to the oil cooler) and unplugging the single wire connector on the sender. You do not need to remove the thermostat outlet tube and upper radiator hose.

The sender can be unscrewed with an 18mm socket (deep preferred), U-joint and about 6" of extensions on the socket wrench. Add some teflon tape to the threads of the new sender and twist 'er in. I checked for a good ground to the sender body with the teflon tape and found it to be a good electrical connection. FOr the tiny cost of this sender and the ease of its installation, try replacing it and see what happens.

 

[COliveira95]

Scott, I have already replaced the sending unit, as well as the ECT. I will try swapping it out with the chance that I may have gotten a faulty one.

 

[AutoSHO]

Its probably worth replacing the $3 gauge temp sender again, but until you get a real gauge its impossible to know how hot the car is truly running.

 

[COliveira95]

i will try replacing the $3.00 sensor, here are a couple of pics:
This is when the fan comes on:

Here is the car's normal temp:

 

[projectSHO89]

Looks pretty normal to me.

Without the use of an accurate, external measuring device to verify that a problem actually exists, you're likely worrying about nothing.

Steve

 

[yamahaSHO]

Mine very rarely gets that warm... I also have control over my fans. Currently, my fans are set to turn on at 208 degrees and off at 192.(Before adding any type of "chip", that was pretty normal for my gauge to show like yours) I normally sit at the bottom of the "M" up to the top of the "M". The top of the "M" has proven to be about 208-210 degrees on not only my SHO, but Chris'(AutoSHO) as well.

Do you have an LPM, TwEECer, or SC Tuner? If not, I really suggest a TwEECer... Especially with all you have put into the car. Not only will you be able to control this, but you can get much better driveability and more power out of it.

 

[COliveira95]

Mine very rarely gets that warm... I also have control over my fans. Currently, my fans are set to turn on at 208 degrees and off at 192.(Before adding any type of "chip", that was pretty normal for my gauge to show like yours) I normally sit at the bottom of the "M" up to the top of the "M". The top of the "M" has proven to be about 208-210 degrees on not only my SHO, but Chris'(AutoSHO) as well.

Do you have an LPM, TwEECer, or SC Tuner? If not, I really suggest a TwEECer... Especially with all you have put into the car. Not only will you be able to control this, but you can get much better driveability and more power out of it.

I have been eying the twEECer for a long time. Money is an issue at this point, but I do plan to get one for sure. Thanks for the help everyone! I will probably also trya cooler T-stat in there for the time being.

 

[masho95]

Looks pretty normal to me.

Without the use of an accurate, external measuring device to verify that a problem actually exists, you're likely worrying about nothing.

Steve

I tried comparing the needle position to that of my car and it looks like it may be running slightly hot when the fan kicks in. But that's just eyeballing it. Like Steve said Chris, I'd definitely get an accurate aftermarket temp gauge if you really want to know how hot it's getting.

 

[luigisho]

That's not alot of gauge movement from where you indicate normal op temp. to be. Echo the others advice--get an accurate gauge on there before you get too worried. Soon-- in case your fears are correct.

 

[Bizzy]

Chris after looking at your pics thats exactly how my 94 acts when the fans kick on and off. Mine usually kick on at the O in normal and go off just before hitting the M.

Done that since day one, cept for when I was running an LPM, then the fan kicked in a little sooner and ran a little longer.

 

[Rob94]

Looks totally normal. Get a laser gun and check it at the thermostat housing if it makes you feel better.

 

[Vitamin G]

Not to thread-jack, but where would one find replacement ECTs and temp senders? And what would one be looking for specifically (brands, model numbers, etc.)?

 

[Yamaha V6]

Chris:

1) Gauge faces... did you pull the needle off to put the face on? (Correct position)
2) On your 3.2L swap... did you bore out a block, or use a 3.2L block? (94/95 cooling passages are better designed from what I remember than earlier 3.0/3.2 blocks)
3) did you reinstall the lower air deflector? Kirk didn't, and ran into some in-traffic issues.
4) UDP's on the waterpump? Try going back to a stock pulley.

 

[jelloslug]

I just got done with my 3.2 swap (a '93 3.2 84k miles) and have noticed that it seems to be running a little hotter also. I may still have air in the lines since I only have around 75 miles on the swap but if it keeps up I may put the automatics duel fan setup in it. I have a gauge in mine and it will range from ~190° F to 228° F when I'm getting on it. Some time back I put a replacement (non Ford) ECT sensor in it and the cooling fan would never come on. I swapped the old one back in and it worked better (the fan would come on).

 

[Rob94]

Not to thread-jack, but where would one find replacement ECTs and temp senders? And what would one be looking for specifically (brands, model numbers, etc.)?

Any auto parts store will have them. Autozone had a run of the ECT sensors with a plastic probe. Stay away from that one. I had 3 go bad within a few months time. Make sure it is the brass probe.

 

[COliveira95]

Chris:

1) Gauge faces... did you pull the needle off to put the face on? (Correct position)
2) On your 3.2L swap... did you bore out a block, or use a 3.2L block? (94/95 cooling passages are better designed from what I remember than earlier 3.0/3.2 blocks)
3) did you reinstall the lower air deflector? Kirk didn't, and ran into some in-traffic issues.
4) UDP's on the waterpump? Try going back to a stock pulley.

Fred, it's a honed 3.2, I believe came out of a 93ATX. I'm using the 3.0 95 heads and i DO have udp's. Not sure what you mean about the air deflector. The car seems to be running cooler now.

 

[Rob94]

The air deflector is that black plastic piece that screws in under the radiator and sort of hangs down. It's purpose is to "scoop" and direct air up to the front of the radiator.