Fuel supply issues / Electrical issue - Mystery

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Rubix

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Lord I hate posting threads asking for help, I hate asking for help. I'm getting tired of this car's stupid problems so I guess this is me being whiny and at the moment out of patience and self thought. Thank you in advance to anyone willing to throw ideas around with me.

Anyway, since this is an ongoing issue over the last couple months, bare with the novel you're about to (hopefully) read.

'93 atx, 3.2, no engine mods, just replaced about everything possible over the years with oem parts.

Fuel pump replaced well it's hard to say when but it was earlier this summer. I've put some big long distance miles on since the replacement; let's say about 3k miles ago since I'm about to do an oil change and I did the last one when I put the pump in. Ever since replacement, every once in awhile I get in the car turn the key and the fuel pump isn't priming or running. It had done this some before and eventually sat in the driveway for a week and wouldn't prime at all, which is why I replaced it. Now stilSo now being superstitious as I am when I get in the car and it won't run I'll sometimes let teh car roll back a few feet, hit the brakes, hear gas slosh around in the tank, and then the pump comes on when I turn the key again. Other times I'll pop the trunk, bang on the inertia switch reset it and it fires right up. I'm sure these are all random pointless things I do and aren't related to the fuel pump working or not. Bottom line, this car has occaisional no starts seemingly because no fuel pump power.

About two months ago I got fed up with this crap I mean i rplaced the fuel pump i shouldn't be having problems (it was a brand new bosch pump). So I pulled the pump out, checked electricals out and it's getting low power, about 8v. Battery and alternator are giving off proper readings both running and key off. I test power at the inertia switch, same readings as at the fuel pump. So there's a problem between the battery/alternator and the inertia switch. So ccrm? pcm? where would the next source be?. After a lot of research I find myself reading about ccrm stuffs. Researching all fo that made my head spin, pinouts, amps volts ohms omg lol so after awhile didn't have time or patience (or understanding quite honestly) to check the amps/volts/etc of each pinout from the ccrm. When the car was running which was most of the time, it ran like a top I mean damn this car had never run or pulled this strong. I did take off and clean and retighten all grounds under the hood and decided screw it i'll deal with occaisional no starts and see what happens. After ground cleanings I'm reading 9-10v at the fuel pump but it barely would hit 10, which is what I think the fuel pump truly needs after all the research i did. Since cleaning grounds, car has still ran great and the fuel pump issues have been much less frequent. Even noticed improvements in windows going up and down, radio power, headlight power, etc; I mean duh I cleaned all the grounds.

Today i drive the car to a sports event and parked in the shade. After an hour of playing football I start it up to go to the bar and the car is shaky, sounds like crap ( like a hole in the exhaust or something), low on power doesn't wanna go when I push the pedal. I mean it goes down the road but it's sloowwww, I put the pedal to the floor and it downshifts and gets loud but even when teh secondaries kick open it still doesn't pull like it should. It's like it's out of timing or the combustion is bad (like when I blew head gasket). I'm wondering if it's the fuel pump not getting enough power and not pushing enough gas. I'm wondering this bc of past troubles with pump getting enough power and bc of the codes it's got, listed below. I am noticing smoke coming up between the engine and the firewall, smells like exhaust, slight bluish color. Car sounds terrible, power and response is terrible. Now that I think about it maybe it's time to replace the cats. And writing that made me realize I should mention I replaced the o2 sensors when I did the head gasket job, that was less than 8k miles ago, probably way less maybe even 4-5k miles ago.

This car ALWAYS has the CEL on, and this car has ALWAYS given me code for DPFE, even after replacement.

Ran codes again briefly (again, lacking patience right now), just did a quick KOEO:

Go figure, 111

Stored codes though, 332 (DPFE iirc?) ,542, 543 (these are fuel pump codes right? I don't have a book or code list handy at the moment). I have a feeling this is something electrical. I'm wondering again like I was a few months ago if I should slap another ccrm or pcm or whatever in there just for laughs to see if thats the problem.

Bah, I'm so sick of these cars. v8 sho is down with a blown PS rack, regular taurus is just a piece of junk that's not currently road legal, and this one now giving me more problems (it literally has a problem every month). I swear every passing day is another day closer to me ditching these cars.
 
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Rubix

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Ah I should have mentioned I did replace the IAC a few days ago to clear up a bouncey idle, I need to go unplug that and unplug the maf and few things to see what happens. Honestly though, I don't think those are related to this issue. Go figure as soon as I wash the car (yesterday) and give it some love and get it looking great it decides to be a *****.
 

Shovert

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I am no expert on these cars by no means. This is where I would start. Take a voltmeter and check voltage at the battery post. Then leave one on the post, then check to the clamp on the battery. Checking for voltage drop. Then move to the other end of the cable. Still looking for voltage drop, Then the bolt. Then do the other side of battery.
Reason I mention this. I had a cable on my Jeep do low voltage and replacing the cable solved it. Face it, it is free checking just taking time.
Something else I read on here is the cable from engine to body make sure ok, and I think cable intake to body??
The ccrm is the where power for pump comes from.
Sorry not much help, when figure it out please leave us know so all can learn. Maurice
 

rubydist

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332 = egr valve opening not detected
542 & 543 = fuel pump secondary circuit failure

the 332 is usually due to plugged sensor ports - either in the intake or the little lines to the dpfe sensor.

the 542/543 can almost always be ignored, as they are set if the engine stalls.

so those codes are not real helpful. I would probe the input and output of the ccrm to be sure that the voltage is right into and out of the ccrm. I have seen a couple of SHO in the past year where the voltage at one end of the wire was fine, and at the other end it was not - the only thing that I can think of is that some factory crimp connection was bad and the resistance was so high that all the voltage was lost. In those cases I just ran a second wire, jumpering it in at each end and viola! things worked again. Based on all your description, I would look for either a wire issue like that or the ccrm being sick.
 

Rubix

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yes i was hoping you'd chime in rubydist, you solve most of my gen 2 problems without knowing it lol. as far as 332 i get that crap even after just cleaning the nostrils, dpfe and such codes never go away on this car. in the back of my head i keep thinking its the ccrm, some wire related to it, or some fusable link somewhere. i have had electrical issues in the past with funky alternators, corroding cables, weak batteries. this isn't anything to do with those issues anymore, its gotta be ccrm or a continuity thing, new territory for me.
shovert, i've checked my voltages at battery, alternator, starter, everything before the ccrm seems fine. ill run a koer and do some multimeter checking later and report back. i've also been tossing around bad cat and failing crank sensor thoughts but i don't know.
the car has been acting strange still all morning and day, after sitting about 30 minutes it was fine again and drove great got me home after work just fine again, who knows.

sorry for writing this from my phone
 

Off Road SHO

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The fact that you "tapped" on something and then it worked, has me puzzled. Normally I would suggest like the other poster of working your way back with a VOM to check out the voltage readings. If thumping on anything near the tank gets you a different reading, it might be the wiring connector on top of the fuel tank is either loose or corroded. If the pins and their respective sockets are worn out, that little bit of dielectric grease they put on it to keep out water could be giving it intermittent opens or just high resistance.

Tom
 

Rubix

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Thanks for chiming in Tom. It does still have that dielectric grease on those pins that was probably applied at the factory. My voltage readings at that harness and before it at the inertia switch are low though. Either way, you are right I should clean everything there and reapply new grease. Thank you.


The fact that you "tapped" on something and then it worked, has me puzzled. Normally I would suggest like the other poster of working your way back with a VOM to check out the voltage readings. If thumping on anything near the tank gets you a different reading, it might be the wiring connector on top of the fuel tank is either loose or corroded. If the pins and their respective sockets are worn out, that little bit of dielectric grease they put on it to keep out water could be giving it intermittent opens or just high resistance.

Tom
 

shoaddict

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JAMIE...whats up man. Just wondering if you solved or found the problem?!
Your not along brother!!! I've had fuel pump nightmares with mine. I have to put 2 pumps on it in the past year. In the past 2 months it been acting up again! Losing power at higher rpms,occasional start & running like crap, spitting & sputtering. The past week its got more frequent. I just new it was the pump. Yesterday i was in G-boro & i started it & it spit & sputtered & started SMOKING "out the exhaust" smelt rich!! Never done that before! WTH!!! So i limped it home & checked the fuel pressure & it was 28psi at idle & 36 when i hit the gas. NO SURPRISE THERE!!! To make it worse It's still smoking!! I think i have a combo problem:rainshit:
 

Dirk37

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Have you tried replacing the fuel pump relay? If you banged on something and then it worked that sounds like a relay going bad.
 

shoaddict

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Yo Jamie,
Solved my combo problem! Replaced the fuel pump ...restored pressure & it ran alot better but still wasn't 100%. After checkin, cleaning & putting dielectric grease on everything. I had a ground issue at the battery. It's back & running STRONG!!!:cool:
 

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