Fuel Pump Door

[poissonverte]

My 2nd pump is now dead.. I dropped the tank last time i changed it but want to do this door through the backseat. My only concern is how dangerous is cutting metal so close to fuel lines? Ive done alot of maintenance myself, but when it involves things that go boom i get hesitant.



PS. done the fuel filter...

 

[todras]

It's close but not THAT close. Just go slow and grow a set.

 

[ManySHOs]

Don't use power tools and go slowly as recommended.

http://www.ethzero.net/~ianf/FP/FP.html

Ian

 

[randy'sho]

i did the fuel pump through the back seat just about a month or so ago! it was easy....just be real careful (you have probably an 1.5-2 inches) but after you get the opening, it's cake!

 

[todras]

This is the one I followed.

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/fueldoor/fueldoor.htm

Used a 3" cutting wheel. I guess a chisel would be safer. Just don't go sinking it too far below the metal.

 

[poissonverte]

Kewl.. Ill give it a go then.

 

[shoebilly]

Nice example, I did this in once. I used a sawzall and it worked great. Had the pump in in 15 minutes. The lines have a somewhat thick insulation on them that would protect them from being cut if you hit then with the blade by mistake. I would'nt use a cutoff wheel. The consequenses are spontainious if you f/u. I cut three sides and bent it up and back down. I also added a piece that I cut out of another taurus cut larger and then screwed it down over the hole, it all worked great and I save $400+ dollars. Be sure you locate the place where you need to cut well.

 

[poissonverte]

This sucks...

got the hole.. the lid is stuck somehow any suggestions, or ill just keep trying to chisel it out.. sucks with gas everywhere now too.. eih.

 

[SHOtimer]

This sucks...

got the hole.. the lid is stuck somehow any suggestions, or ill just keep trying to chisel it out.. sucks with gas everywhere now too.. eih.

Why do you have gas everywhere?

Doug

 

[ManySHOs]

This sucks...

got the hole.. the lid is stuck somehow any suggestions, or ill just keep trying to chisel it out.. sucks with gas everywhere now too.. eih.

You do realize that the "lid" is held in place with a rotating locking ring that must be turned in order to remove the pump assembly? Gently tap the ring to get it to slide.

Why is gas everywhere?!?

Ian

 

[Racer X]

I'm guessing he removed the lines already?

While at this point it'd be a monumentally bad idea, when I did my door, I used my Dremel with a fiberglass wheel, and carefully cut out the door. And then I removed the lines and went about removing the pump.

 

[TYSHO]

It's close but not THAT close.

I call BS on that one! I just cut mine out tonight after reading this thread and on the passenger side the line was literally touching the sheet metal! From seeing the pictures on write-ups, I knew this side was the closest of all and I used a hack saw. For the rest, I used an air powered cut-off tool with a 3" wheel. If you do that, just make sure it's not a fat wheel. You can also go over the passenger side and weaken it, then use a flat head or something and tap it with a hammer and slide it through going sideways.

 

[shoebilly]

You guys that have never done this before, don't do this in attached garage. $400 to $500 to have this done may less than your homeowners deductable

 

[poissonverte]

Yeah, i detached the lines.. Ive rotated it a a little but the edges are now under the little tabs so not much left to hit.. Ill revisit it today under better workign conditions.

 

[ManySHOs]

You guys that have never done this before, don't do this in attached garage. $400 to $500 to have this done may less than your homeowners deductable

I did it outside with the windows down and doors and trunk open. I wanted as much airflow through the car as possible. The gas isn't as dangerous as the fumes are. I would not do it near a building/house/garage/car.

Ian

 

[CosmoSHO]

The "thinking man" would not take the lazy way out when working with the fuel tank/lines. Support the tank, loosen the straps, and LOWER the tank a couple of inches. THEN go to work with your dremel/grinder. Those lines can be right up against the floorboard. We don't need any Darwin award winners.

FYI, Jegs has a nice aluminum door that works great for this application.

 

[shoebilly]

Thats easy for a guy from Fort Worth to say. In the northern states it can be below 0. The straps can be too rusty to " just loosen " Nothing goes smoothly on your back when its ZERO. ZERO will turn you in to a "thinking man".

 

[SuperchargedSHOguy]

Thats easy for a guy from Fort Worth to say. In the northern states it can be below 0. The straps can be too rusty to " just loosen " Nothing goes smoothly on your back when its ZERO. ZERO will turn you in to a "thinking man".

Not only that but your bolts holding the tank up on the straps will be rusted and perhaps not able to get a socket on or worse...bust the head off.

 

[trueSHO]

Not only that but your bolts holding the tank up on the straps will be rusted and perhaps not able to get a socket on or worse...bust the head off.

And after the head busts off, I'll tell you it is a complete biotch to get everything out of the that hole where it bolts into.

 

[Racer X]

Thats easy for a guy from Fort Worth to say. In the northern states it can be below 0. The straps can be too rusty to " just loosen " Nothing goes smoothly on your back when its ZERO. ZERO will turn you in to a "thinking man".

Cosigned.

This is precisely the reason I did my access door. My car grew up in Massachusetts. I'm definitely not a fan of breaking bolts, or trying to pull tank straps down only to have them rip a hole in the tank because they were rusted to the tank.