Flywheel weight clutch stage?

[wasianguy05]

I have a couple of questions about the weight of a flywheel and what clutch to use with it.

I have a 94' MTX, which is my daily driver, all stock except for a bigger air intake.

1) Would it be worth it to get a 9 lb flywheel or would a 17lb be just as good/fun?

2) I was thinking of the stage 1 clutch, but would that be sufficent?

 

[shobote]

For a stock DD, why not use the stock Flywheel and stock or stage 1 clutch unless you plan to up power significantly. The heavier flywheel makes it easiest for everyday drivability, as the rev's will stay up between shifts. Buy a catted equal length high flow y-pipe for about the same price as a flywheel; best bang for buck upgrade there is for an MTX, and the stock Y-pipe has to come off to do the clutch anyway.

 

[wasianguy05]

I was only thinking about reducing the weight of the flywheel to get more power to the wheels, or is that not the right direction to take. I'm just doing some research before I start throwing money around. I was planning on chaning the y-pipe and the cats, but i was just lookin at the other components too.

 

[techi14]

search for fidanza. I got one and I am one happy sho owner!

 

[38SHO]

check out the SHO Source flywheel.......

very high quality..... I've heard from a few people who have had a few different brands and they like that one the best....

their aluminum one is also the lightest flywheel for the SHO


a stock clutch is good for bolt ons....... get a LUK or such.....

 

[shobote]

I was only thinking about reducing the weight of the flywheel to get more power to the wheels, or is that not the right direction to take. I'm just doing some research before I start throwing money around. I was planning on chaning the y-pipe and the cats, but i was just lookin at the other components too.

You will get a faster revving motor with a lighter flywheel; the Fidanza is very light for a DD SHO though. If you drive in stop and go traffic to and from work, this would be a nuisance versus a stocker. I developed a knee problem having to commute with a 5 speed in heavy rush hour traffic with constant clutching. The Shosource 17 lb billet is a nice comprimise and is on my list to buy over the winter along with Southbend clutch.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

if the SHO is a daily driver the 17lb we offer might be a better upgrade. A stage 1 clutch will be good for just about all bolt on and it will last you along time.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

baaaa you are all weak, I have a 9lb fidanza in my DD 93 mtx with a stage 2 clutch. I wouldn't change it out, the thing revs like a sport bike and makes it easier to rev match because the engine revs back up faster.

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

I've been looking at SHOsource's 17lb flywheel myself. DC traffic sux.

 

[AMDUKES]

^ you've driven my car with a 9lb fly its not the fly wheel that makes it a b to drive in traffic it's the pressure plate on the clutch

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

True, your car is very easy to drive. ****, your clutch pedal is softer than my SHO.

 

[jbserra]

I'm having a really hard time getting used to the Fidanza and CM Stage I. The combo of grippier clutch and lighter flywheel makes it hard to get the car moving in first gear. I have to rev it pretty high to keep the engine from stalling. The car feels fast as ****, but stop and go traffic sucks. I wait for the car in front of me to make it further along before I will release the clutch. I second the recommendation on the slightly heavier flywheel for a DD. I wish I would've gone with the 17lb from ShoSource at this point to improve driveability.

Fidanza/CM Stage I
PROs:
Quicker revving engine
CM Stage I is very light at the clutch pedal (surprisingly light).
Shifts between gears feel great!

CONs:
Stop and go can be difficult
Higher revs = higher clutch wear. I'm not thinking this is a 100k mile setup. I still smell clutch at least once a day. Maybe I just suck at driving this new setup...

edit: please see post #34. Setup seems to be working slightly better.

 

[AMDUKES]

^ thats very true it can be very difficult to get use to the lighter fly wheel... it really is like driving a whole different car! but thats all it takes is getting use to and once you do its amazing

 

[NCTaurusSHO]

baaaa you are all weak, I have a 9lb fidanza in my DD 93 mtx with a stage 2 clutch. I wouldn't change it out, the thing revs like a sport bike and makes it easier to rev match because the engine revs back up faster.

x 2 on that one ,its a blats to drive

 

[wasianguy05]

I'm having a really hard time getting used to the Fidanza and CM Stage I. The combo of grippier clutch and lighter flywheel makes it hard to get the car moving in first gear. I have to rev it pretty high to keep the engine from stalling. The car feels fast as ****, but stop and go traffic sucks. I wait for the car in front of me to make it further along before I will release the clutch. I second the recommendation on the slightly heavier flywheel for a DD. I wish I would've gone with the 17lb from ShoSource at this point to improve driveability.

Fidanza/CM Stage I
PROs:
Quicker revving engine
CM Stage I is very light at the clutch pedal (surprisingly light).
Shifts between gears feel great!

CONs:
Stop and go can be difficult
Higher revs = higher clutch wear. I'm not thinking this is a 100k mile setup. I still smell clutch at least once a day. Maybe I just suck at driving this new setup...

How long have you had this set up? do you think a higher stage clutch would help? Would you say the change is worth the money once u get goin?

 

[jbserra]

How long have you had this set up? do you think a higher stage clutch would help? Would you say the change is worth the money once u get goin?

I have had it since October. I would think a higher stage would make it worse if they grip harder. Starting with the Stage I, you have a grabby clutch. Combine that with a light weight flywheel. If the clutch grabs quick, and the engine has low rotational mass, then it wants to stall.

I worry when my wife needs to take the car (even though she seems to be doing ok). It would be harder for those who don't drive stick very often. Heck, I've driven stick for 14 years, and I'm having issues adjusting.

With that said, yes, it is quick, but the car as a whole is pretty quick even without the Fidanza. In this case, I should've gone with driveability. If you auto-cross or track the car, that might be a reason to go with it, but for a DD, I'm not sure I'm sold...

edit: please see post #34. Setup seems to be working slightly better.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Stock and stock is my suggestion.

 

[Pro*banshee]

What about for those NOT in boost YamahaSHO?

 

[yamahaSHO]

Um... That's what My suggestion was for. Not too many stock clutches can handle the boost.

 

[drivinhard]

My .02...for it's size, the SHO has about the heaviest pressure plate you will ever see (big cast piece, instead of most being stamped). The original 9.25" clutch was a small (lighter) stamped piece, with the same size flywheel. Ford had to beef up the clamp load of the pressure plate (which we all know), and did this, but didn't really change the flywheel, or the flywheel weight. Result? Several lbs were added to the original engine rotating assembly.

The original 9.25" clutch was also smaller, and it's moment of inertia less than the 9.75" unit, which has the bulk of it's weight at the extreme edges of the flywheel.

All that to say:

1. A steel flywheel in the 17 lb range is probably closest to the original weight of the SHO clutch (read that to be, original Ford designed rotating assembly weight)

2. Because of the extreme weight, and placement of weight on the 9.75" cast pressure plate, an alum flywheel is not a huge drivability issue IMHO. With a more aggressive friction material, it can be trickier, but with a full facing disc, it's never been an issue with me.

If you live in an urban area and are on/off the clutch all the time, starting off on hills with 1/2 dozen bags of dog food in the trunk, then maybe a steel unit would be better.

For hi-po use, either unit whizzing @ 7,500 rpm is probably better than the stock cast piece (having a stock cast PP is bad enough). There was a guy at Road Atlanta in Oct that got his leg cut off coming down turn 12 when the clutch/flywheel assembly let go. Since our's is FWD and not RWD, we don't have to worry about legs, since it's going to come right up our crotch.