Fixable?

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shoon

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Just picked up a spare motor and a pile of parts. Started to tear the motor down and found its got a bad case of crank cancer:
DSCN0228

I can spin the sprocket by hand back and fourth, but I can't get it to line up with the keyway so I can pull it off, I am thinking the woodruff key is all bent / burred. Any ideas how to pull it off without breaking anything?




Apparently victim to crank cancer and fire!
DSCN0229

DSCN0230

DSCN0231
 

jon93

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You need a new key and sprocket. You should be fine as long as the key-way went undamaged.
 

shoon

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Thanks for the input.
As I tried to mention (text got cutoff with the pics) I'm having trouble getting the sprocket off, because I can't spin it backwards enough to line up with the keyway to pull it off. Any tips on pulling the sprocket without damaging the crank?
 

lowc

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you are trying to move it with the belt off right? (dumb question but had to ask) i would try a pair of waterpump pliers (big channel locks) or if you have an extra sprocket you could always cut it off
 

shoon

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you are trying to move it with the belt off right? (dumb question but had to ask) i would try a pair of waterpump pliers (big channel locks) or if you have an extra sprocket you could always cut it off

Thanks,
Yea, the belt is off I had snapped a pic before I had made an attempt to get it off. I'll give it a try, safe to say the sprocket is garbage now anyway.
 

jon93

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I have a spare sprocket and key. PM me.

As for getting that sprocket off, I would soak it in some penetrating **** (pb blaster) and let it sit for a couple minutes. Line it up and use a pulley puller in the same method as removing the crankshaft dampener.
 
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St Louis SHO

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If its spun that far, it isnt fixable. The crank is ground down where the sprocket sits, and is boogered up on the CKP side, so the reluctor will hit the crank sensor.

Needs new crank...
 

SHODWN

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Depends of the skill level of the owner. What James said is right, but if this person can weld and take his time he can.

You will need to take all of the gear off and get to the key way, then get a new key and put it in the slot. you will see that you have worn down a part of the crank, you can fill it with weld(the bad area) grind and keep installing the key way until it looks like it did when it is stock.
 

shoon

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crank appears to be unscathed. I had to drive the key out with a punch, and it was a tight fit the whole way out.

DSCN0235

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St Louis SHO

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I'm talking about the OD of the crank back there. You can see a lip. The pulley should fit tight all the way down the crank... Also, look at where it seats on the back side, I'll bet its all boogered up.
 

SHODWN

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Can you drive the key the rest of the way out of the key way? its very hard to see with all the rust and melted sprocket still in the key way.. after you do that go to your local store and get a scotch brite pad (a dish sink with the hard green stuff on the back will work. and clean the crank and resend pics.

James, im thinking that we are seeing melted metal in the key way and that ridge might also pop off.. wont tell until its clean..

if you wanted to drive from BC to MASS Ill give you a 3.0l..
 

AREA 91

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Ouch. Threads like this make me wish I hadn't thrown out perfectly running 3.0 engines!

:theyareontome:
 

whiteguy3

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Mine looked much better than that because I caught it super early but it looks like the crank can be saved. Get a new key-way with sprocket and loctite everything down there on reassembly. You should be fine if the new key seats fine in the key-way. Also tighten down the crank pulley real tight and do not over-tighten your timing belt.
 

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