First problem.

[FrankenSho]

The car has excessive creep in drive and reverse and is usually at 15 hundred rpms and i have to firmly hold the brakes to keep the car from rolling forward. Got the ecu scanned at the local advance and it through some egr codes and a tps code, just wondering what is causing this excessive creep. i want my idle back damnit.

 

[Markus]

First we need to know exactly which codes you got. Your problem MAY be the idle air control valve but without codes I can't say for sure.

 

[FrankenSho]

How many things can cause excessive creep? lol. ill get the codes for ya.

 

[FrankenSho]

the codes im throwing

EGR Below Minimum Voltage
Inlet Air Control Circuit Malfunction
TPS Higher Than Expected
IDM To PCM SPOUT Signal Loss CKT Grounded
Cylinder ID Circuit Malfunction
EGR Flow Insufficient
EGR PFE/DPFE Volts Out of Range Higher Than expected
EGR Sensor Above Max Voltage

 

[FrankenSho]

bump for you guys not having a clue lol.

 

[FrankenSho]

noone has a clue yet?

 

[NiNeTy Fo SHO]

If the car was cold, they usually idle higher than when warmed up.

Other wise, one or more of the codes you posted is making it idle high.

By the looks of the codes, I would say this is your first noticed problem. It looks like there are a few other things not working quite right.

 

[SeanMc]

Did someone play with the screw on the tb?

 

[stick]

The car has excessive creep in drive and reverse and is usually at 15 hundred rpms and i have to firmly hold the brakes to keep the car from rolling forward. Got the ecu scanned at the local advance and it through some egr codes and a tps code, just wondering what is causing this excessive creep. i want my idle back damnit.

I had a simular problem today on my 93 ATX. My wife and I took it on a 5 hour round trip, and on the way back we were stuck in traffic for about 90 mins. We sat still long enough that I cut the car off. When I started it back it didnt want to idle. Then when it did it idles below 1k rpm and was slightly sluggish. By the time I got it home about an hour later, it was idleing at about 1500. I pulled into the driveway, put it in park and it died. I restarted it and it idled high again. I dont get it. It drove flawlessly all the way down and back, until I cut it off while stuck in traffic.

Any ideas?

 

[JTSHO]

Throttle position sensor sounds like a good place to start since its cheap and easy to replace and maybe clean the egr valve and iac valve.

 

[SHOtimer]

the codes im throwing

EGR Below Minimum Voltage
Inlet Air Control Circuit Malfunction
TPS Higher Than Expected
IDM To PCM SPOUT Signal Loss CKT Grounded
Cylinder ID Circuit Malfunction
EGR Flow Insufficient
EGR PFE/DPFE Volts Out of Range Higher Than expected
EGR Sensor Above Max Voltage

Well, you have a TPS code. That should be replaced and is not very expensive. You need to make sure you place the replacement sensor exactly how the old one came off. Do not touch the positioning screw on the other side of the throttle body, it is not for adjustment.

You might want to consider replacing your IAB valve, as you are getting a code for it.

You are getting both iginition codes for the CID sensor and the CKP sensor (the cam and crank sensors). You should try taking off the DIS and putting new heat sink behind it and reattaching it to the intake (heat sink for computers, found at Radio Shack). Also, make sure the intake bolts are firmly inplace and the ground strap at the rear of the intake is connected and solid. After that I would disconnect the battery and reset the idle.

If you are still getting codes after that I would explore replacing those sensors.

Instructions to reset the idle, which you need to do after replacing the TPS and IAB...can be found by using the search feature at the top of the page.

Doug

 

[FrankenSho]

thank you, that was very inciteful and will help greatly.

 

[FrankenSho]

i diagnosed the problem yesterday and its the iacv and the egr.