few questions on 1991 sho

[Ashley_MTX]

I agree that putting this back together with that damage probably isn't going to get you too far in the end. It's great that it's running again but...that would terrify me to drive. I think your best option is probably still a swap, personally.

Good luck though.

 

[SHOspazz92]

what exactly are you trying to say there that were idiots and dont no what were doing?

A Little touchy aren't we? Is it because you guys completely ignored everyone's advice and just wasted a ton of money to get a toasted engine running?

Just wondering.

-Sam

 

[Bob Gervais]

A Little touchy aren't we? Is it because you guys completely ignored everyone's advice and just wasted a ton of money to get a toasted engine running?

Just wondering.

-Sam

This.

And to add to it, are about to waste money AGAIN, buying more gaskets to screw up.

You could've had the engine swap done by now, and for cheaper money than you've got into it.


See, here's the issue:

You ask advice, and the people that have been doing this for a long time gave you advice. You reply with a cocky attitude, which makes the people you're asking for advice not give a shit about what happens to your car.

Swap the engine.

 

[sperold]

As you are finding out, parts for these motors are really expensive. This isn't a small block Chevrolet when it comes to buying parts. In spite of this fact, used things are very IN-expensive (and I still can't figure that out). On this forum, go to SHO parts - Classified and the 1st entry is "lots of lightly used..... by 93SilverbuttetSHO. Scroll down the pictures and you will see a fabulous looking 3.0 for $100.00. I wish mine looked so good. Granted it is in Arizona, but you probably know a guy who knows a guy who has a transport run.... well you get the idea. If you don't want that one, eventually one will show up in your area.
If you still want a "numbers-matching" SHO, get a lot more information on the oddities of this motor. I don't really think it is the torquing sequence and 3 people will give you 3 different answers on that topic (something about starting in the middle and working outwards). I know nothing about these motors (except that parts are whoppingly high priced)
Let me give you a little story on a motor I do know - a Y-block Ford from 1956. Every motor in the universe aligns the cam using a mark on the crank gear with a mark on the cam gear..... except this one. You put the crank gear where the dot is at 9:00, take the chain and count 13 links and rotate the cam (to about 9:00) and install the the cam there. Who could figure that out if you didn't ask. There is only 1 way to do it right and lots of ways to do it wrong.
Get lots of people involved and rule out the gasket placement (on the Y-block, it says "this side up", but it doesn't tell you you have to apply sealant around the water passages.... things like that.
You might had a certain pride in getting something running that no one else could, just make sure it makes sense. And if it runs again, read the codes to figure out what may really be wrong.

 

[SHOlover1]

As you are finding out, parts for these motors are really expensive. This isn't a small block Chevrolet when it comes to buying parts. In spite of this fact, used things are very IN-expensive (and I still can't figure that out). On this forum, go to SHO parts - Classified and the 1st entry is "lots of lightly used..... by 93SilverbuttetSHO. Scroll down the pictures and you will see a fabulous looking 3.0 for $100.00. I wish mine looked so good. Granted it is in Arizona, but you probably know a guy who knows a guy who has a transport run.... well you get the idea. If you don't want that one, eventually one will show up in your area.
If you still want a "numbers-matching" SHO, get a lot more information on the oddities of this motor. I don't really think it is the torquing sequence and 3 people will give you 3 different answers on that topic (something about starting in the middle and working outwards). I know nothing about these motors (except that parts are whoppingly high priced)
Let me give you a little story on a motor I do know - a Y-block Ford from 1956. Every motor in the universe aligns the cam using a mark on the crank gear with a mark on the cam gear..... except this one. You put the crank gear where the dot is at 9:00, take the chain and count 13 links and rotate the cam (to about 9:00) and install the the cam there. Who could figure that out if you didn't ask. There is only 1 way to do it right and lots of ways to do it wrong.
Get lots of people involved and rule out the gasket placement (on the Y-block, it says "this side up", but it doesn't tell you you have to apply sealant around the water passages.... things like that.
You might had a certain pride in getting something running that no one else could, just make sure it makes sense. And if it runs again, read the codes to figure out what may really be wrong.

thanks man you make my day explaining that were not just trying to try it and if i doesnt work its the motor but we just need the fact that we didnt just f up the head gasket torque to y its not working were gonna try it if it works good for us if it doesnt to bad time for a new motor now we have a parts motor

 

[Bob Gervais]

thanks man you make my day explaining that were not just trying to try it and if i doesnt work its the motor but we just need the fact that we didnt just f up the head gasket torque to y its not working were gonna try it if it works good for us if it doesnt to bad time for a new motor now we have a parts motor

This made my head hurt.

 

[sperold]

Go to Performance Upgrades - Engine, Intake, Exhaust, Driveline - Update 1/12/2010 Progress of Project 195 (by icemaneric) on this forum. By the looks of his work, I think you could get some good advice on what may be amiss in your project. The symptom of water in both the oil and the exhaust is a good clue for a master mechanic to help his diagnosis.

 

[SHOlover1]

ok well its running and very well clutch is very sensitive slight miss to it but not bad i think it just needs a tune up i still need to save money for cooling fan battery new plugs and wires but i need to check the codes and we couldnt check the lights when we got it so... went to check the codes and no check engine light in the dash or it burned out from probly being on constantly...lol so where can i get a code scanner that will tell us the codes and one of the previous owners has retro fitted the plug so its all in the black plug is the a scanner that can just plug that in or do i have to tear it apart.....

 

[Rubix]

Glad to hear it's finally coming along. So what'd you do differently to get it running?

As someone has said in one of your threads before, please use punctuation. Your posts are almost impossible to comprehend.

 

[SHOlover1]

Sry. im bad with the periods and commas and ... but, we did not use the torque sequence for the heads the first time.
We didn't no which order they went in we just threw them on and did a crossing pattern as the sequence(didnt work we should of looked it up before hand).
Redid it with the right sequence and it burnt the oil out of the cylinders and then it was fine. It wont hold idle but thats because we've been switching 1 battery between 2 cars and so it cant hold memory....