few questions on 1991 sho

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SHObill

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the heads are prolly fine! its the rust on the cylinder walls I would be concerned with!! Too bad I just scrapped a 3.0 you could of had! LOL Drop in a new/used motor!
& those frt seats are out of an 89=the only year that had the wide headrests!
 

sholover719

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could you explain to me how you think the heads are fine? i thought that when the motor overheated and the head gaskets blew the heads warped because of the difference in the medal
 

Rubix

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I was thinking the same thing when I saw this last night, those cylinder walls are not looking good. Time to keep an eye out for a block.
 

SHOlover1

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the heads are prolly fine! its the rust on the cylinder walls I would be concerned with!! Too bad I just scrapped a 3.0 you could of had! LOL Drop in a new/used motor!
& those frt seats are out of an 89=the only year that had the wide headrests!


would it be possible to do a honing in stead? maybe?
 

Rubix

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So what's the deal? Any progress anywhere? Sorry I missed your call the other day Matt. I was unable to answer and was pretty busy all day, I assume yall were down in the area?
 

sholover719

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yea we were down we were woundering if you knew of any other junkyards in richmmond other then cap and circle auto cuz neither of them had any sho at all, we finally found a set of heads for 200, they asked if we wanted them pressure tested and i was like ok thats fine by me, but it turns out they were cracked, or they cracked during the pressure test, but either way i got my money back, so im thinking that me and chris are going to go ahead and just do a motor swap, he wants to try and get some kinda meet together but idk how whats going to work.. but ill keep you updated on everything that happens.
 
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Do yourself a favor, and listen to the people that have been doing this way longer than you. Stop tearing that engine down and wasting your time, and swap the engine. $200 for heads, $200 or so for gaskets and bolts, add in another $300 or so for miscellaneous stuff that you find wrong along the way, and you're kicking your own ass by repairing that engine. Not to mention those rusty cylinders...

You can get a decent 3.2 for $300 or so, 60k it, and put a new clutch in at the same time for what you're going to spend getting this 3.0 running again.
 

SHOlover1

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i wouldnt mind doing the 3.2 swap but can u tell me where i can can find a dencent 3.2 for bout 300? i can find a 3.0 for 350 without driving 500 miles to get it but the cheapest i can find a 3.2 in reasonable distance is 600....so do you no where i could find this 300 dollar 3.2.... junk yards dont have any sho's at the moment at least we may just do the 3.0 swap who really needs the extra what 15 hp difference between them?
 

sholover719

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i know there is a write up about how to do it but exactly how hard is it to do? is the 3.2 a plug and play with the 3.0 wiring harness? what about the belt, the mtx has 2 the atx only has one?
 

sholover719

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big update... need some help

well, its running again.... it took us about 3 days of trying to get it to start having to take out the bad gas put fresh gas in it, but its finally running again runs a little rough, but it runs good.. only one problem there is now antifreeze in the oil and it smokes like a fog machine.. so i have a feeling that i might have torqued the head bolts in the wrong sequence sence now theres antifreeze in the oil and not going through the exhaust. i know they are at least torqued down tight enough, but this is the order i did them in.
4 6 2 8
5 3 7 1

would anybody know the correct order they should be torqued down?
i found this on a website but idk if its right or if someone might have something different.

Torque sequence:
------------
6 4 2 8

5 1 3 7
------------
Step 1: Torque from 47-53 Nm (35 to 39 Ft/Lbs)
Step 2: Back off all bolts 360
Step 3: Torque from 27 -33NM (20 to 24 Ft/Lbs)
Step 4: Torque rotate 85-95
Step 5: Torque rotate additional 85-95

any input is great.
thanks to all that have helped.
 

SHOlover1

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does anybody know if this sequence is right or is it wrong. i know were not the only ones who have ever replaced a head gasket. lol
 

jmpSHO

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well, its running again.... it took us about 3 days of trying to get it to start having to take out the bad gas put fresh gas in it, but its finally running again runs a little rough, but it runs good.. only one problem there is now antifreeze in the oil and it smokes like a fog machine.. so i have a feeling that i might have torqued the head bolts in the wrong sequence sence now theres antifreeze in the oil and not going through the exhaust. i know they are at least torqued down tight enough, but this is the order i did them in.
4 6 2 8
5 3 7 1

would anybody know the correct order they should be torqued down?
i found this on a website but idk if its right or if someone might have something different.

Torque sequence:
------------
6 4 2 8

5 1 3 7
------------
Step 1: Torque from 47-53 Nm (35 to 39 Ft/Lbs)
Step 2: Back off all bolts 360
Step 3: Torque from 27 -33NM (20 to 24 Ft/Lbs)
Step 4: Torque rotate 85-95
Step 5: Torque rotate additional 85-95

any input is great.
thanks to all that have helped.

Did you really put that motor back together and expect it to not have a headgasket leak?
 

sperold

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I don't know if your torquing sequence has anything to do with this problem.
Look for a way to determine if both headgaskets are leaking. Do a compression test, and do a pressure test on your cooling system. Does the coolant behave the way it did before you took the heads off, when you did your first test where you determined the gaskets were pooched.
When everything was apart, did you put a steel straight edge across the block and head surfaces?
Is there anything particular about the gaskets, can they be upside down or backwards somehow?
If it is not freezing where you are, put pure water in it while you are experimenting.
Try a few things like above. If only one side is leaking, you may be able to tidy it up. If both are leaking, then it may be something that you did in the assembly stage (for example mix up the gaskets).
A last resort might be to isolate the coolant from the heater core (changing the heater core is probably harder than changing your motor) and try some stop leak additives. That way you can get the consumption down to a point you can drive it somewhere to get further diagnosed or do a 3.0 swap (98 to 92 were all 3.0, so keep it simple).
 

sholover719

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thank you for the positive reinforcement sperold.. i was really beginning to wounder if i was going to get anything really helpful from this thread about the car, i think it had somethen to do with the torque sequence that we did, but after we put it back together and had it running for allittle bit and figured out that the oil was going to the antifreeze (before all the compression was going to the cooling system) we shut it down put it back in the garage and started to tear it back down to do it again, the cylinder walls after it had been running for about 3 to 5 min had cleaned up really nicely and the cylinder walls look nothing like the pics now which is good, im going tomorrow to get new gaskets and hopefully put it back together and maybe try to get it running again by the end of the weekend but i have to see how everything goes.. and ill post back in the up comming days to let you know how its going.
 

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