Failed state IM

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badcamelot

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Nowadays seems as though every and any mechanic are programmed to say "change your plugs and wires" so my question is are they that much of a wink link? Granted I purchased bosch wires through checker auto and plugs, but that was only a year ago. I have not replaced the valve covers gaskets and I know that oil leaks into the spark plugs wells. Can this cause the plugs to get too hot or something. The car failed because the hydrocarbons were way too high. Was told change your plugs and wires and bring it back. Does this sound right?
Car is a 93 atx with 146K
Scott.
 

projectSHO89

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Elevated HC readings are usually due to incomplete combustion.

Guess what causes that?

If your plug wells are full of oil, you probably have weak spark. Guess what that causes....
 

sperold

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I did two emission tests in a row, 3 days apart. I failed both. The second test was done with new plugs and wires and the valve cover gaskets changed. It failed worse than the first one. The advice you got stinks.
Tidy up your plug oil situation by changing the gaskets and the little pucks at the bottom of the tube. But to get through the test (if you have a time limit), clean and dry them out now. Put in new plugs if they are older. Check those new wires at night. The little wires with the spiral wrapping on them are problem prone and may give you a light show. If they don't, they are OK.
Get new 02 sensors and make sure they are Motorcraft, and don't gripe about the price, because they are the only ones that get me through the test.
Put a few miles on it and make sure it is good and hot when you do the test.
Run an injector cleaner through it as a regular care item .
Take it back for the test. It should pass.
If it fails......... Plan B.
Find the spout connector over your power steering pump on the passenger side at the firewall. Pull the spout and remember which way it was situated before you touched it.
Your car will pass with the spout removed. Don't expect any performance while you have it out.
 

projectSHO89

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sperold,

You're welcome to critique previous responses, but I'd strongly advise you to do it in a more temperate manner lest you find yourself in the penalty box. I trust you will heed this.

Scott,

If you have a known condition (oil in the plug wells) that can specifically cause your IM failure, it would make the most sense to repair that first. Anything else is just a band-aid while ignoring the obvious problem. While there are more things that can cause an elevated HC value, a poor spark is near the top of the list. Fix that first.

If that condition has been in place for too long, your cats may be fuel-soaked and inefficient. Another reason to fix the obvious first. In any event, make certain the cats are HOT prior to your retest.

Fuel trims may be askew from poor spark. Reset the PCM to reset the trim tables after making your repairs, then drive normally for several days so the PCM's adaptive strategies can do their job.

Good luck.
 
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expy916

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Replace the seals, new plugs, clean the EGR passages in the intake, clean off MAF sensor and intake temp sensor wash or replace air filter, and beat on it before testing, and LEAVE IT ON when you get there.

Did that, minus the seals and plugs, and my 90 that burns a quart every 100 miles passed here in California.
 

jedhead

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Removing the spout will increase HC and lower NOX emissions. I always have problems getting under the NOX so I remove the spout. My HC rises slightly, but stays within specs and my NOX drops.

Bob
 

sperold

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I was not criticizing a previous response, I was criticizing the advice he received from the state emission test personnel. The advice he got from them would only work if he missed his numbers by a few, but when he mentioned "way to high", plugs and wires are not the answer.
The 02 sensors only throw a code when they are 25% out of range, and if it is on the rich side, that is where all your unburnt hydrocarbons are created. Great plugs and wires wont help you with that situation, no matter how much you pay for them.
I am sorry for any misinterpretation of my remarks.
 

badcamelot

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Thank you for your responses. i am going to use CRC brand fuel treatment and am following their instructions. Im a bit concerned about disconnecting things etc etc. Id prefere the car pass as it should. My concerns were that the advice of "change plugs and wires" has been suggested (as near as I can recall) ever time I've ever had a 'mechanic' work on or look at any vehicle I have, the lone exception would be the F250 diesel I have. Im quite sure the car isnt in need of major repair to get the HC's in line. I forgot last year that I ran a bottle of techron through the car before the test and it was fine after (it had initialy failed due to check engine light and the co2 sensors needed replaced) so I should have ran that through again before the test, but with no check engine light I went with the assumption all was well.
As far as taking care of the problem, you advice is sage and viewpoint correct. I should take the time to replace gaskets, perform a valve lash/shim etc etc, but this is my dd and I work two unglamorous jobs to make ends meet. The several hours and cost for parts just dont fit into capabilities right now. Are these things important and will they make life easier? Yes, but at the moment complying with the law with the least impact to my wallet and time is what Im after. I just bristled with the natural ignorant default assumption that spending $100-150 would correct the problem.

Thank you for your suggestions and help.
Scott.
 

sperold

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We have been strugging with the dreaded e-test for a generation now, and we have learned alot.
In my jurisdiction, the place that does the test is authorized to do the repairs as well..... which really stinks!
Depending on what they have a surplus of, that is their recommendation. I used to follow their instructions to a tee.....only to find that none of their recommendations solved the problem. I even fell for the old...you need new catalytic converters... line.

I bought a SHO parts car that couldnot pass the etest (so no ownership transfer), and proceeded to finally solve the problem. After doing the steps one by one and having retests at 1/2 price each time, the numbers jumped with correct 02 sensors. Other solutions actually made the numbers worse in some cases.
I paid a ton of money and spent a ton of time... and 02 sensors have to be working for-you, if you want to pass an etest.
Where I am, they actually tighned the performance criteria of the etest, so now your car has to exceed the requirements that it met when it was new.
Now that stinks.
 

shoon

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Bosch wires are really crappy IMO.

Would only use motorcraft or autolite plugs too, other brands don't seem to work as well.

With brand new motorcraft plugs, wires, t-stat, and O2 sensors I failed a few times.

I also agree with pulling the SPOUT. I ran my car probably 2 or 3 times before finally getting it to pass. first 2 times it failed on NOx and everything else was really low, hydrocarbons were almost 0. Pulled the SPOUT, and the NOx dropped a bit and hydrocarbons went up a little, but it was just enough to pass.

Old cat's probably don't help much either, especially if the car has been running rich for a while.
 
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