Excessive KR

[mattr66]

Whatever man. I'm simply reiterating what's been stated within this thread as well as others. Have you bothered to read it? Nobody's talking about 91 octane as far as I can tell.

Marathon, Shell, Mobil, Valero, Speedway, BP, Citgo... all top tier fuels. I went through 93 octane from all these and others over the course of months and keeping the OAR below -.74 was a major chore with them all. And even then I had repeatable, predictable timing being pulled. Anyone that wants to say it's because of bad gas is welcome believe whatever they want, but that's absolutely not the case in my situation. I could count on +6 KR at 2000-2500 rpm and WOT like clockwork. +4 KR after each shift was commonplace, which I'm sure is at least partially due to the large 5 psi boost swings. Knock activity at mid RPMs became hyperactive in cold weather. Notice that I'm not the only one to call out the correlation between cold weather and heavy KR and OAR shift . Hmmm maybe there's something to that...

Others reported seeing as much as +7.5 KR, which is the max limit of the knock system and absolutely dangerous IMO, because at that point you've ran out of detonation protection. So I advise others not to chase their tail they way I did, to just let the OAR fall where it may and live with it. Hopefully that way at least they can keep the knock control system from losing control.

It’s not the gas, it’s the tune. If you really want to sell it as a feature rather than acknowledge and investigate a deficiency then that's fine, it's not my problem anymore so I really don't care either way.

And having worse issues when cold points even more to an issue like engine mount when the rubber is even harder than normal.

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[76FoMoCo]

No you have something else going on.... Period you would be running no timing if the base tune needed 7.5 degrees pulled.

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I have the same thing to a tee as listed above. It's almost like he was in my car. on 93 or e30 and I know it's not the fuel. so the question is what else is it? I have check for any and everything that can case false kr (pipes touching ect) now I'm going to look at motor mounts.
I have another tune I run and max kr is 0.79

 

[mattr66]

I have the same thing to a tee as listed above. It's almost like he was in my car. on 93 or e30 and I know it's not the fuel. so the question is what else is it? I have check for any and everything that can case false kr (pipes touching ect) now I'm going to look at motor mounts.
I have another tune I run and max kr is 0.79

Here's the crazy thing.... I just had 2 customers with the issue. One found metal to metal contact in his engine mounts and the other one had his exhaust pipes touching in the middle causing the issue. OAR on anyone else's calibration other than GH doesn't mean anything. The GH cal is much more reactive. At 0 OAR it runs stock boost, at -.8 it runs full boost. At -.96 it runs same boost as -.8 but has about 2 degrees more timing added to the base. The goal with the GH AOL was to make sure the cats can't get hot from too much boost and not enough timing. GH does not make the knock sensors more sensitive like alleged. We do not alter the knock sensor calibration, only the reaction time to modify OAR and the speed at which the knock sensors can add timing.

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[stripSHO]

And having worse issues when cold points even more to an issue like engine mount when the rubber is even harder than normal.

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And yet that 2000-2500 problem area I listed was occurring as late as April. Same for the shift knock that I routinely observed regardless of the weather; I'm sure that was the mounts as well, and had absolutely nothing to do with the unstable boost. Funny how every issue or exception I had with the GH AO, whether valid or not, was bad enough to catch with just casual observation of my livewire screen but all of them miraculously disappeared for good when I removed your tune and began religiously datalogging every single drive intently looking for issues to pop up. And that's true despite progressing to now running higher loads, significantly hotter IAT's, and ultimately more aggressive final net timing. My KR remains pretty well anchored between -0.5 and +0.5 in WOT and between -4.0 and 0 at part throttle. My knock sensors are still active, I just don't need them. If any of that changes for me this winter I'll be sure to let everyone know, but I highly doubt it.

 

[High on Ethanol]

Disable knock sensors! Make Blocks Windowed Again!

The GH tune seemed way more responsive than others when it came to adjusting on the fly. I know it took over 50miles of driving to change KR on another famous tune. I actually had to learn to trick the OAR because of the way most tunes adjusted so slowly.

If I had issues, I'd discuss it with tuner and take their advice. If I didn't like that advice, I'd change tuners. But to each their own.

 

[mattr66]

And yet that 2000-2500 problem area I listed was occurring as late as April. Same for the shift knock that I routinely observed regardless of the weather; I'm sure that was the mounts as well, and had absolutely nothing to do with the unstable boost. Funny how every issue or exception I had with the GH AO, whether valid or not, was bad enough to catch with just casual observation of my livewire screen but all of them miraculously disappeared for good when I removed your tune and began religiously datalogging every single drive intently looking for issues to pop up. And that's true despite progressing to now running higher loads, significantly hotter IAT's, and ultimately more aggressive final net timing. My KR remains pretty well anchored between -0.5 and +0.5 in WOT and between -4.0 and 0 at part throttle. My knock sensors are still active, I just don't need them. If any of that changes for me this winter I'll be sure to let everyone know, but I highly doubt it.

I am happy you are tuning your own vehicle with success. The bottom line is that I have done enough high mileage or modified cars at this point to be able to say with great confidence that if the GH base tune has major issues, something is different about the car. So is the answer tuning around a mechanical or electrical issue or fixing the underlying issue?

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[stripSHO]

Here's the crazy thing....

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Careful, there. You’re revealing a lot more information about the “secret sauce” than you think you are.

 

[mattr66]

Careful, there. You’re revealing a lot more information about the “secret sauce” than you think you are.

It isn't a secret.... I could tell everyone what I do and they still couldn't implement it without copying exactly what I did or spending the time on it I have. It doesn't need to be a mystery and I will explain it to anyone who asks.

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[High on Ethanol]

It isn't a secret.... I could tell everyone what I do and they still couldn't implement it without copying exactly what I did or spending the time on it I have. It doesn't need to be a mystery and I will explain it to anyone who asks.

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This is why I respect you above the rest of the email tuners.

 

[stripSHO]

It isn't a secret.... I could tell everyone what I do and they still couldn't implement it without copying exactly what I did or spending the time on it I have. It doesn't need to be a mystery and I will explain it to anyone who asks.

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My own tune also blends between stock load at 0 and max load at -0.8 and continues to add an additional 1-2 degrees timing between -0.8 and -1.0 and has been set as such since day one. But I “copied” Ford, not you.

But I’ve never actually strayed from -1 oar so I guess I don’t actually “know” that it works that way.

 

[mattr66]

My own tune also blends between stock load at 0 and max load at -0.8 and continues to add an additional 1-2 degrees timing between -0.8 and -1.0 and has been set as such since day one. But I “copied” Ford, not you.

But I’ve never actually strayed from -1 oar so I guess I don’t actually “know” that it works that way.

I dialed in the borderline tables at each mapped point on both 87 and 93 octane and adjusted the adaptive table to properly blend between the two extremes. That was the difficult part and it took lots of dyno and road time.

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[mattr66]

My own tune also blends between stock load at 0 and max load at -0.8 and continues to add an additional 1-2 degrees timing between -0.8 and -1.0 and has been set as such since day one. But I “copied” Ford, not you.

And I don't know if it is your personality to act like a dick to everyone, but you sure come off that way. I have more hours tuning on this platform than anyone outside of Ford I'd be willing to bet....

Furthermore you can tank me for the aftermarket high pressure fuel pumps working on this platform all the way to redline. Also I have requested a bunch of needed parameters be added to the software you are using that allows us to better tune these things. I tell people what works and what doesn't and I don't blow smoke up people's *****. I also don't sugarcoat things.

I legit made something through hours of hard work that appeals to the masses for the way 99% of the people drive their cars. I also know that buying premium doesn't always mean you are getting premium. 99% of drivers need piece of mind knowing that the calibration can account for lesser quality fuel if it happens for whatever reason. It can do this without leaving power on the table when the oar is maxed because the boost is at the maximum the hpfp will support.

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[76FoMoCo]

even tho GH tune doesn't work with my set up I have IC and Turbos from GH and Matt did find the tables for the stock LPFP was missing in my strategy to help with my tuner to make the difference. I truly believe Matt it a true backbone of this platform. I do think he could take more time with the guys his tune doesn't work with but I know his time is very limited. I do commend him for engaging on this forum and FB. IMO its the load and rpm he puts in his shift points. the shift is at the 0 load when not on the gas!