Engine quit and wont start

[masho95]

If you have access to another computer just swap them out, but in your case it doesn't sound like you do. I don't know of a way to test the computer but other posters here might. You should always get some type of response from the computer when you run the KOEO test. Whether it's 111 or any other codes.

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Yes, definetly don't worry about spark yet. Fix the computer and the rest will fall into place. If the computer is not operating properly, the crank sensor is just feeding a signal to the wind anyhow.

There are two places I would look for trouble here:

1. There is a grounc coming off of the battery specifically for the computer IIRC. Verify that this wire has continuity. To do this, you get a volt meter, set it on the continuity setting (there might be a more technical name for this setting. ) , and then touch a led to each end of the wire. If the meter beeps, the wire is carrying voltage. You can also use this setting to check for cross shorts.

2. This is the more common scenario. Remove the emissions panel directly above the fan and look to the driver's side middle of the radiator support. There is going to be a little black box about 4 inches square there. This box is grounded through the two 10mm bolts that hold it to the radiator support. If you have a poor chassis ground or a poor mating surface at those bolts, the PCM and the IRCM (Integrated Relay Control Module) will not get power. The IRCM (that little box) controls your cooling fans, fuel pump, and Power to the PCM. It is possible that a relay is bad.

 

[skipper]

Mike, Thanks for the info, I will check it out on Thursday and report the reults. I do not want to buy a new computer if it isn't really bad. I do not have access to one.
Mike

 

[masho95]

The IRCM (that little box) controls your cooling fans, fuel pump, and Power to the PCM. It is possible that a relay is bad.

The IRCM powers the computer?

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Erik,

It controls the power flow to the computer. If you look at a wiring diagram for the vehicle you will notice that PCM power is routed through the IRCM.

 

[masho95]

Erik,

It controls the power flow to the computer. If you look at a wiring diagram for the vehicle you will notice that PCM power is routed through the IRCM.

Gotcha, so if the IRCM is unplugged you're not going to have any power to the computer? Very interesting, see you learn something new everyday.

 

[Neighbors]

Hello all! I'm new to the SHO forum, and have followed this thread for some time now. Unfortunately I have not had a successful diagnosis of what ails my '93 ATX beauty, affectionately known as 'my albatross'...

From a post on my local (Houston) Mustang board:

My albatross, er '93 SHO, died on me (well, on a friend who I had loaned it to's wife) about five months ago. It supposedly tried to start by turning over several, did not, then flat died. I replaced the igniton switch; nothing. Replaced starter; it at least turned over, but the battery croaked (dry cells). Replaced battery, and no fuel or tach signal (it spins over though, LOL!).

I check the inertia switch, and was not getting power there; cleaned the IRCM ground, nothing. When I try to jumper the fuel pump, nothing. When I turn the key on, none of the cluster lights (CE, etc) come on.

Is there any way to check the funtionality of an EEC (PCM)? I wonder aloud if the IRCM (integrated realy control module) might be bad?

Any thoughts? Takers? (Any input appreciated!)

Do any of you guys have a spare H3Z PCM (EEC to the Mustang boys, LOL!) or an IRCM that you might sell, lease, loan, or trade for something of like value? I'd like to get this puppy up and running to keep miles off of my F250...

Please help a destitute old man out!

Chris Neighbors
...wondering why, oh why, did he ever buy an SHO...

 

[SonicRiot]

check the DIS

You obviously have no spark.

Also, just because a fuel pump primes or spins and gas shoots out of the shrader valve at the fuel does NOT mean there is adequate fuel pressure from the pump. It just tells you there is fuel. But if you have fuel, it should catch, it would just run lean and miss like a bastrd.
Take out the plugs and look for oil fouled plugs and raw gas dripping from them after you try to start it. Check the resistance of your wires and the gap of your plugs. Make sure all sensors ar eplugged in. Sometimes the ECU wont throw a code for a bad or missing sensor until the car has run for a while.

If you really can't get it running, you can flat-bed it up to CT and I'll help you out (though I'm sure there are many closer and more knowledgeable mechanics/techs to you in NJ)

EDIT: Oops, I'm an idiot and didn't realize there was a second page. I can be slow like that...