Engine, engine, engine.....

[Tecchie]

Well, a couple of questions...

New fuel pump in and when the engine is cold I get a little hesitance at WOT when I start from a stop.... let me try to word this so you all can understand as my brain isn't working.......


I start from a dead stop and punch it to WOT and have great power until about 3,500 RPM's until the secondaries kick in and then it's on like Donkey Kong....

It does this only when cold..... then when hot or at operating temp, it gets pretty gutless down low, but everything across the band is good....


Any ideas?

I still need to do rod bearings...

On that note, does anyone know where I can find a *NEW* engine ? Are these things even made anymore???

I have 207k + on a 1995 ATX...

Trans replacement is next major thing, unless someone out there has a spare? lol

:thankyou:

 

[shobote]

Probably just running too rich; My concern is why would you even go WOT when the engine is cold to begin with ? You will be dumping unburnt gas into the cat's at WOT since the mixture is rich, bad on the catalyst and will clog them up, plus when it is cold, revving will do the most damage to your engine internals. IT is best to wait a while after the coolant comes up to temp to run high rpm, as the oil takes longer to come up to temp than the coolant.

 

[Tecchie]

Well, I know about the cold temps.... but why the operating temp issues? since I put in a new pump (high flow, stock pressure) could I have a dribbling injector or three?

and the WOT is gradual, like I don't stop it to the floor from a dead stop.. as for the catalyst, I am pretty sure those are about shot as even when it's hot my 96 Taurus G smells cleaner than the SHO does any any temp....

and the G has 197K on her clock..

BTW, I run Valvoline Dura Blend 10w-40... with a K&N oil filter (I noticed in all three of my vehicles; Taurus G '96, Taurus SHO '95, and Bronco XLT 5.8L '90) the oil stays "cleaner" longer...so I use those in everything..

 

[Mrhappytuzi]

Do you get any codes? and could possibly be clogged cats or crank cancer, and the closest thing to a new engine is a rebuild.

 

[shobote]

Sounds like the cat's could already be clogged; also, with the K&N, it is not uncommon for oil to contaminate the MAF sensor wire. This happened to mine twice even after careful oiling and drying. Engine will bog, particularly at WOT when the MAF sensor gets just a tiny bit of that oil on it. Might try removing the MAF and cleaning the sensor too.

 

[Tecchie]

no, no, no.... K&N Oil Filter... Don't have the K&N Air cleaner yet...

and I don't think I have crank cancer as the grank seal was replaced by a reputable shop (along with part of the 60K) as that was all I could afford.. and they mentioned nothing of finding anything like that...

yes I have seen pics, and the colored crap/chewed parts...and not on my engine..

Again, anyone know where to find one new anyways?



EDIT:

Also, no codes, those all went away when I replaced the O2's *shakes fist at rear one* and had a tach issue until I replaced the cam sens, now it's all good, and no codes...

 

[shobote]

There are no new engines out there; but in reality these engines are pretty much indestructable outside of Rod bearings, very unlike other engines in that regard. Many folks are racing them with much higher mileage than yours and with no rebuild. Your problems are probably nothing to do with the engine itself, rather the state of maintenance like plugs, wires, etc, clogged cats, clogged fuel filter, or something else along those lines.

 

[Tecchie]

okay, this was done...

Water pump, belt (both timing and serpentine), plugs (autolite Double Platinum XP's), wires (although only 7.5mm, would like to get some 10mm but don't know where I can get them), valve cover gaskets (and plug wells) front crank seals, cam seals, CAM sensor, Radiator, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump (WalBro 155LPH stock pressure).

and that's about it so far I think... I still need to replace the Heater Core (have the part, just don't wanna do it) replace the front motor mount, rebuild/replace trans (a little slamming between 1 & 2), thermostat and a few other odds and ends....

The work that I have had done and done myself has been done in less than a year and from when it was first worked on (since I've had it) until this posting there have been maybe 500miles put on her because of the trans.

 

[SHOspazz92]

Try cleaning your MAF. I've seen oiled K&N Filters dirty up the MAF and screw things up.

-Sam

 

[Mrhappytuzi]

Try cleaning your MAF. I've seen oiled K&N Filters dirty up the MAF and screw things up.

-Sam

I think he said that he has a K&N Oil Filter... but cleaning the MAF is a good idea any way just be gentle with the sensor inside.

 

[shobote]

You may have already identified the problem; If the cats are indeed clogged it will not run properly; sounds like you have addressed all the fuel and ignition concerns. I would still clean the MAF sensor if you have not done that before; use (radio shack) electronics cleaner or MAF cleaner, remove the MAF from the housing, and then the screen with snap ring pliers to access the filament, and be gentle on it while cleaning.

 

[Tecchie]

You may have already identified the problem; If the cats are indeed clogged it will not run properly; sounds like you have addressed all the fuel and ignition concerns. I would still clean the MAF sensor if you have not done that before; use (radio shack) electronics cleaner or MAF cleaner, remove the MAF from the housing, and then the screen with snap ring pliers to access the filament, and be gentle on it while cleaning.

I've cleaned it before, no issues with the MAF...

The weird thing is ... it's like it feels like a slight power loss right before the secondaries kick in and only when cold... and when they do kick in, there is ALOT more power, enough to break the tires loose on moist pavement..

When it's warn the secondaries kicking in is less noticeable and the power loss from before isn't there... I could set a clock to how this happens, every time no matter what I do to her..

BTW, I use only Shell brand gas 93 octane or whatever is "super unleaded" expensive shit.. she's already had a bath in SeaFoam in the crank case, intake & Tank... new cam sensor, wires, plugs (autolite Double Platinum XP), water pump, high flow fuel pump....

 

[bubba]

Replace your fuel filter, Mine did this and I racked my brain over. I changed my fuel pump and filter. Brought new life to the car, now there's nothing in it's way.

 

[Tecchie]

Replace your fuel filter, Mine did this and I racked my brain over. I changed my fuel pump and filter. Brought new life to the car, now there's nothing in it's way.

Sorry guys, forgot to mention that I had replaced the fuel filter about 100 miles before I replaced the pump... and even if the filter was clogged, wouldn't it have the power loss no matter what temp the engine was?

 

[RStalveyARFF]

You said high flow stock pressure fuel pump... What flow rate did you get?

 

[Tecchie]

It's the Walbro 155LPH from ShoSource.com

and the pump has less than 50 miles on it.

I still need to have the trans rebuilt with some HD parts, gears, bands, etc. and a shop quoted me $2,200 + fluid & tax..

still need to do my heater core, but who cares, it's not cold enough.

 

[Tecchie]

anyone?

 

[somedude_001]

what grade of gas do you run? try running a higher grade if you run low test. maybe somehow you are detonating and it is pulling timing?

 

[hawkeye18]

He mentioned that he's been running nothing but 93. I think that's plenty high enough...

A clogged exhaust system will wreak all sorts of havok on low-RPM torque. The engine really relies on proper intake pulse timing and exhaust scavenging timing (and the right amount of back pressure) at low RPMs to make good torque. If your cats are clogged up, this will mess all sorts of things up. Have you done the "whack" test on the cats?

And, on a more "ensure power is on" level, have you made sure there's nothing blocking one or more of the long runners?

 

[yamahaSHO]

Probably just running too rich; My concern is why would you even go WOT when the engine is cold to begin with ? You will be dumping unburnt gas into the cat's at WOT since the mixture is rich, bad on the catalyst and will clog them up, plus when it is cold, revving will do the most damage to your engine internals. IT is best to wait a while after the coolant comes up to temp to run high rpm, as the oil takes longer to come up to temp than the coolant.

If he's at WOT, it should be looking at load/RPM/OL and should really be ignoring temp. He shouldn't be dumping a ton of extra fuel in there. However, aside fuel, it wouldn't be wise for him to run WOT on a cold engine for other reasons.

and the WOT is gradual, like I don't stop it to the floor from a dead stop.. as for the catalyst, I am pretty sure those are about shot as even when it's hot my 96 Taurus G smells cleaner than the SHO does any any temp....

Gradual or not, WOT on a cold engine is a no-no. You might not be shocking the drivetrain, but you putting stress on cold parts, seals, gaskets, oil/bearings, etc. Someone here used to do that, but has stopped since blowing TWO head gaskets and spinning EVERY bearing that touches the crank.

You may have already identified the problem; If the cats are indeed clogged it will not run properly; sounds like you have addressed all the fuel and ignition concerns. I would still clean the MAF sensor if you have not done that before; use (radio shack) electronics cleaner or MAF cleaner, remove the MAF from the housing, and then the screen with snap ring pliers to access the filament, and be gentle on it while cleaning.

Clogged cats won't show problems based on temperature. If he thinks they're shot, he could revmove the y-pipe and check or remove the cat-back and blow the rest out (if it's not already sitting in a muffler).



My suggestion is to check codes again and look for the obvious under the hood as well as checking to see if your cats are intact or clogging up your system.

He mentioned that he's been running nothing but 93. I think that's plenty high enough...

A clogged exhaust system will wreak all sorts of havok on low-RPM torque.

If you think it does that with low-RPM torque, wait until you really start trying to move exhaust and watch what happens.