Electrical problems?

[Kuldar]

Lately I've had another issue. When I accelerate(just normally in traffic, not racing) first front speakers go quiet and then rear ones(not always) and engine/gearbox makes bit of like whistling noise and gear changes are even worst than usual. Same time electric windows don't work either. As soon I lift off, everything goes back to normal and (abs) light comes on for a moment. And most times when headlights are on the brightness goes up and down. Any ideas? Could it be bad earth.

 

[ThatSHO]

sounds like your alternator is on its way out. My friends car made a whine sound from the speakers when his alternator was dying. You should check how many volts the alt is putting out.

 

[Kuldar]

I checked and it's giving out 14.4x when engine is running, so I guess that alternator is ok. Any other ideas?

 

[xmanglc]

Clean your battery terminals and check the ground right next to the battery, my ground had a large nick in it when I bought er from the po and she did all sorts of wierd shit.One example was when I pressed the lock button the temp gauge would max out and the car was'nt even running...

 

[My_Silver_SHO]

Check the fusible link on the fuse box. Make sure this connections are clean and tight.

 

[Liquid_force]

Did you take voltage readings with the engine at 2 or 3k to simulate acceleration?

When mine went it seemed normal at idle, but it would jump way up at higher rpms.

Edit: I just noticed this is a few weeks old. I'm guessing this problem has been solved.
It would be nice to know the outcome.

 

[Kuldar]

Problem still not solved as it doesn't bother me that much and I've been using it less lately.
It might end up in destruction derby soon.

 

[SHOZ123]

The transmission range sensor has caused goofy things to happen electrically. Also make sure the transmission connector is not corroded or full of water. it's the one that sticks straight up on top of the trans.

 

[Kuldar]

The transmission range sensor has caused goofy things to happen electrically. Also make sure the transmission connector is not corroded or full of water. it's the one that sticks straight up on top of the trans.

Thanks for idea , do I have to take it off to check or is there easier way to do it. Access seems to be reasonably good there. Or should I leave it unplugged for some time or it doesn't work like so.

 

[SHOZ123]

Best way to check it is with an ohm meter. Each pin puts out a different resistance value. This is how the car knows what gear you have the shifter in.

Transmission Range Selector Lever
Position Resistance (Ohms) Range Volts Min Max
P 3770 4607 3.97-4.85
R 1304 1593 3.24-3.96
N 660 807 2.55-3.11
(D) 361 442 1.88-2.30
D/2 190 232 1.23-1.51
1 78 95 0.61-0.75

 

[Kuldar]

I haven't had chance to check that sensor, but I did find out that either battery or alternator is fooked, after I charged the battery up, it's fine so could be the alternator. Anyway, I've sold the car in ebay for £500(same as I paid in January) and now just have to hope that buyers shows up for collection and it will be someone else's problem. In case it will go for racing/parts, is there anyone who's interested in some parts from that car?
ps. I've bought and sold few e38 bmw-s since summer and have to say that taurus is much more fun to drive, it might not be as fast as facelift 740 or 750, but it's more of a drivers car!? Seats are good, engine is good only the gearbox seems to be crap. Will be sad to see it go but I'm not going to spend grands to fix £500 car.

 

[alecracing]

check your grounds.

alternator could be putting out 14 volts and still be bad (putting out ac current instead of dc, bad diodes)

battery could have an internal short causing all kinds of weird problems also.

you can start car up and disconnect battery while its running (this is risky though, voltage spike could damage computers in car, although I've never seen it happen personally) and drive car and see if problem is still there.

 

[Kuldar]

check your grounds.

alternator could be putting out 14 volts and still be bad (putting out ac current instead of dc, bad diodes)

battery could have an internal short causing all kinds of weird problems also.

you can start car up and disconnect battery while its running (this is risky though, voltage spike could damage computers in car, although I've never seen it happen personally) and drive car and see if problem is still there.

Thanks.
I did found out that battery was bad, had gone dry. Did put new battery on but no change. And as I have now more problems I'm not gone look into it further.