Electrical Gremlins

[auto.guru]

So what else is new in the world of SHO and electrical issues???

Heres the current situation:
Complete engine rebuild. Engine bay area got painted.

Engine turns over quite well. Starter works and engages. But i have no power to my windows, fuel pump, or other accessories like my climate control or blower. Ive checked all the fueses and they appear to be good. I have checked the fuel pump shut off switch as well. I do have dash lights. there are no headlights in it atm, but when my friend pressed on the brake pedal i noticed my LEDs would flicker, but would not stay on. 02 sensors are not hooked up but i doubt that has anything to do with it.

Every electrical connector is secured and every one of them has dielectric gease in it to prevent corrosion and climate wear.

Ive searched previous threads and found that the giant relay behind the air box mounted to the strut tower is one possible culprit. The other may be the ground behind the passenger strut tower. If someone has a picture of the 2nd ground, it would help alot. I do not know how many grounds there are on this engine....

any questions just ask. ive got about 10 days to get this car running and im 98% of the way there

 

[kevinspann]

You have both + wires hooked up at the starter, correct?

 

[auto.guru]

Correct.

 

[whiteman_01]

Check for B+ at the main fuse box behind the drivers strut tower.

 

[kevinspann]

You have the both hooked up correctly, correct?

As Joe said check for power at the main fuse box. It sounds like it's not getting there from the starter.

 

[RedDemonSHO]

yes what joe says and make sure there is power to the CCRM. there is 3 power wires that come it to it if ALL dont have power then everything dont work right. or there is a fuseable link right by the + battery terminal if not conected then you will not have power at CCRM too

 

[auto.guru]

Ahh we figured it out. No engine to body ground. Duhhhhhhh Omg sleep deprivation really makes you overlook the obvious lol

 

[auto.guru]

ok so finally have this rebuilt engine in the car, and i hook everything up...

and the CCRM just goes into hyperdrive, clicking violently like a computer when its trying to think really hard. I have not touched the CCRM since my last engine, and the main wire harness running above the radiator fans has stayed in place the whole time.

now i did paint the engine bay, so first thing everyone says - GROUNDS. so ive gone overboard on grounds. and ive scraped the paint away and redid the connections on the following:

the 2 grounds right to the chassis in front of the pcm.
the ground loops on the driver fender well behind the airbox
the ground loop near the power steering pump
i have an additional ground strap from the ^^^ to the chassis near the battery hold down box
i have grounded the battery to the chassis using a 0g battery wire.


I have spark, and my friend said she could smell fuel on the spark plug when i took it out.
i cant smell a damn thing because of my allergies, but i do hear the fuel pump kick in when i turn the key. The PCM will not give me any codes. The CEL seems to flash violently just like the CCRM, buts its very hard to notice all the flashes - its almost more of a constant light because the clicking is so fast. I have disconnected the CCRM and turned the key foreward and there is no CEL present then.

I have removed the front wheel speed sensors because there were mutilated... although that shouldnt have a problem i dont believe.

i do not know what the proper compression should be for a rebuilt engine that HAS NOT seated the rings yet. I got 30psi on #6 cylinder. ive seen a honda run on 22psi for compression because of bad rings... so i dont think thats a problem

my next plan of action is a timing light... although ill have to take the harmonic off to clean the paint off so i may see the marks.

oh and yes, ive checked all the fueses in and out of the car.

 

[Ex3Cutioner8]

now you said you scraped the paint off all the grounds, i do believe the CCRM is grounded by it's screws, try cleaning them up. Good Luck

 

[auto.guru]

cleaned those up too.

I went to the junk and got a J code CCRM - in hopes it would stop clicking and i could rule out a bad ccrm or not. Didnt help at all. The module still goes haywire... so now im stumped as to what it is. I keep looking for grounds but i dont see any. Ive tried to smack it with a screwdriver and wiggle the connector. Ive tried to add a secondary ground to it and still no luck.

I have no flipping idea whats causing this.

 

[auto.guru]

So I did a compression test wet and dry on cyl 4,5 &6.
0, 0, & 30 psi. Something isn't right. And I can actually smell today. I didn't smell fuel on the plugs at all. I gotta go rent a harmonic pulled, clean it up and highlight my marks. Then I can check my timing. If the timing is dead on ill have to pull the valve covers and check my chain timing.

 

[Ex3Cutioner8]

i would make sure there is not to much dielectric grease on your plugs,, i put to much on my plug wires and it acted like oil or water in the plug wells. good luck

 

[auto.guru]

So I did a timing check today. And its wayyyyy off. So I followed directions step by step and retimed my belts. Hooked the plug wires up to the correct diagram. And #1 is still not lining up. If I put the timing light on #4 ill see the "yellow" mark on 10degrees. Otherwise #1 is 90 degrees advanced. All the marks, lines, and. Tabs lined up. I'm still really confused.

As far as the ccrm, we think its the fuel pump during seeing as how that's the only thing I removed and put back in within the time period. Now its energize time is constant, as its high pitched and then will dip in frequency. The check engine light brightness also correlates with the fuel pump.

 

[SHO1]

Cams/rear chains need to be timed to each other properly on each head also, did you check that? doesn't matter where belts line up if cams aren't right.

 

[auto.guru]

i made sure i did the cam chains correctly, but i am going to have to check again... no choice about it.

although i did print out a CCRM pinpoint test book off ALLDATA. 173 different pinpoint tests. so far im on #8 and it says i have an open in pin #13 to the ignition switch... beats the **** out of me.. but im still at it