EGR Code 332- Is this an easy self fix?

[wannabeSHOman]

ok here's the story...

1. CEL comes on...
2. check the codes....4 come up
3. clear the codes...
4. CEL comes on...
5. first code is 332...
6. i'm a little nervous about pulling intake
7. go to mechanic
8. he pulls codes... 332 first / then defrost code
9. he clears codes...
10. next day CEL on again...
11. that night, check SHOtimes find 332 code
write up and print it.
12. go back to mechanic, with print out off of
SHOtimes.
13. he "blows out" EGR vavle, totally ignoring the print out. sez he thinks that should do it.
14. that day CEL comes on again.
15. did i mention i'm nervous about pulling
intake myself.

do i have any choice here? or am i just being a chicken sh--?

please help.
thank you
tony

<small>[ March 14, 2002, 10:23 PM: Message edited by: wannabeSHOman ]</small>

 

[shotx]

When sdpatt did my 60K service last month, my powdercoated intake was delivered to be installed at that time. I got the same code (332) when everything was done and I drove off. Scott had me go back the next morning and he discovered that there was a blockage in the passage from the EGR valve. There are a couple of smaller passages that you can see if you remove the throttle body. I thought they looked like nostrils. Anyway, they run along the bottom of the intake to an outlet near the EGR valve. Scott found that it was blocked and was able to free it up with a coat hanger. Plugged up the outlet and reistalled the throttle body and haven't had the CE light come on again.

Hopefully Scott will see this post and he can tell you more detail with all the proper terms.

<small>[ March 14, 2002, 10:46 PM: Message edited by: shotx ]</small>

 

[wannabeSHOman]

thanks roy...

so he did it without takin the whole in take off right?

by the way your ride is lookin good...

thanx again

tony

 

[shotx]

That's right. He only removed the MAF and TB to get to the two openings in the intake. The other end is a larger hole with a plug on the firewall side near the EGR valve. Just remember to be careful and cleanup any gunk that falls into the intake.

Good luck and thanks for the compliment.

wannabeSHOman:
thanks roy...

so he did it without takin the whole in take off right?

by the way your ride is lookin good...

thanx again

tony

<small>[ March 14, 2002, 11:08 PM: Message edited by: shotx ]</small>

 

[projectSHO89]

There are several things that can cause the 332 error:

1) Clogged EGR passage in the intake manifold. See the SHOTimes FAQ for cleaning instructions.

2) Defective EGR valve. Might happen, but is rare.

3) Defective (clogged or broken) EGR tube

4) Defective DPFE sensor. Could also be the rubber hoses that connect the DPFE sensor to the EGR tube.

5) Bad Vacuum Control Valve or its control electronics.

Quick diagnosis: Connect a small vac line to the connector on the EGR valve. Start engine. Use a vac pump or suck (by mouth) on the line, 'goosing' the EGR valve to open. If the EGR valve AND the intake passages are good, the engine will drop rpms very noticibly.

If no drop in the rpms, proceed with the intake passage cleaning, then repeat test. It will probably work.

If the first test passed, inspect the 2 rubber hoses that connect the EGR DPFE sensor to the EGR tube. They tend to become brittle and can break or otherwise loose their integrity.

If you have a vac guage, you can measure the vac inputs that the DPFE sensor sees. Just connect the guage inline with the sensor hoses one at a time and perform the EGR 'goose' test above. A properly operating EGR valve, clear intake passages, and a clear EGR tube will result in one hose having no change in vac when the EGR is 'goosed' while the other hose will have several inches vac during the same 'goose' test.

The DPFE sensor detects this difference in vac between the 2 ports and outputs a DC voltage to the PCM that is somewhat proportional to the difference in vac between the ports. This can be measured with a voltmeter and probing the wiring connector at the sensor. One wire will be ground, one a reference voltage (probably 12 v, it's been 2 years since I researched this on my old 94), the other is the output signal of the sensor.

The last component is the Vac Control Valve. It recieves a DC voltage from the PCM that causes a proportional amount of vac to be applied to the EGR valve.

Hints: 1) The EGR valve rarely fails.
2) The 'goose' test is a quick way of isolating the problem to the intake or the valve.
3) The DPFE sensor is available from NAPA for around $50-55.
4) If you disconnect the hoses, you will probably destroy them. If you call the Ford stealership for replacements, be sure you have already called 911, because you WILL have a stroke when you hear the price. Use cheap line if you can't find anything else. Buy a couple feet and change it often because the heat of the exhaust gasses will **** it.

For a good technical explanation of the Ford EGR system, go here: http://www.smpcorp.com/download/view/tt2q00.pdf

Bookmark it and pass it around as needed.

Steve
projectSHO89

 

[luigisho]

Nice lookin' intake Roy!

 

[sdpatt]

I think it has been covered. The plugged location in Roy's intake was in the "nostrils" that are visable when the throttle body is removed. They are two holes on the back surface of the intake at the split. I bent a coat hanger to unplug the clog. I also had to vacuum out powdery debris from the EGR passage between the EGR valve connection at the driver side rear of the manifold to the vertical passage to the nostrils. This horizontal passage is accessible by removing the 8mm plug on the firewall side of the EGR passage. I used a rubber hose to blow through the passage to detect the blockage and to confirm the clearing of the blockage.