EEC ???

[stevemel]

Need some help with this one...
My car will start and be running, then it will just shut off. More recently it will crank over and start and shut right off, need to give it gas to keep it running, but even that does not help. Can put it in N or P and it will crank right over and start again. Mostly shuts off when slowing to an idle at stop light. Had the 'pros' at ford tell me it was MAF and O2 sensor. Replaced the stock with a performance MAF, and the car ran great for a 2 months. Then out of the blue is started happening again, thought it was a fuel probelm but the pump and filter are ok, took to my mechanic he hooked to diagonstics and it gave 7 codes, turns off key and turns back on, none of the previous codes return when hooked back to diag. equipment. Any help please!!!!

 

[luigisho]

I don't suppose you saw what they were the first time? You need to check the codes yourself or have them written down if someone else checks them. The car should throw at least 1 code if it stalls. It sounds like the IAB/IAC but that is a first impression. There are a few things that will cause this symptom. Check the faq at http://www.shotimes.com for a procedure to try to clean the unit. It's cheap and easy to start.

 

[sdpatt]

Or a more descriptive site: http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html

You have got to get those codes.

 

[stevemel]

Got those codes that I needed, and none of them make sense for what is happening to the car. With the engine off got these codes: 10, 176, 212, 215, 216,217, 332, 556, 624. None of these wouls seems to shut the engine off while driving. With the engine on these were the codes: 332, 225, 536, 521, 632. Anyone that can shed light, PLEASE DO SO...

 

[luigisho]

I'm gonna defer to Scott on this one. Some of these codes are from not running part of the test. Mainly pushing the brake and turning steering wheel part. And the 556 is thrown when the car stalls. That doesn't automatically mean the fuel pump is OK, just a common observation. The 212 looks interesting and the 215,216,and 217 failure of all three coils. The 600's are auto tranny codes. Is there a solenoid in the transmission that will **** the motor if it's on the fritz?

<small>[ September 13, 2002, 07:03 PM: Message edited by: luigisho ]</small>

 

[luigisho]

bump

 

[projectSHO89]

I would start by "refreshing" your ground cable's connections at the battery terminal and at the starter/engine block. Then, redo the ground connection from the engine to the firewall, then the ground connection from the battery to the PCM and to the fenderwell. Then clean and redo the ground for the DIS module on the intake crossover pipe. Make sure the intake crossover pipe has a clean ground to the intake manifold. Maybe there's a ground under the coil pack. Remove the pack, check for one, and clean it if there is one. You have to have good, clean, secure grounds, first off.

Disregard the 225, 332, and 176 errors (knock sensor, egr system, and an 02 Sensor) for now. They will not cause problems with stalling.

The 521, 536, and 632 errors are most likely do to an improperly executed KOER test. Disregard them at this time. At the moment, ignore the tranny codes, they shouldn't affect engine running.

That leaves the codes for the ignition (212, 215, 216,217) and for the fuel pump power system (556). The 3 for the coils could be due to a bad ground for the DIS, the intake, the coil pack, etc. Same for the 212.

Again, go through and make sure that EVERYTHING has a good, clean ground. Then, reset the codes, and start over. Run the tests again, fix one thing at a time. until you can get the diagnostics to pass. The try driving and see what happens.

As soon as you get a CEL, pull the codes and solve each problem as it surfaces.

I would plan on a set of O2 sensors at a minimum. The 332 might be due to clogged intake 'nostrils' or a problem in the sensor circuit. Do a search on my user # and "332" for a diagnostic procedure. Once you know what's wrong with the EGR system, the repair is easy.

Clean and check the positive battery cable, too, while you're at it. Can't hurt.

Steve
89

<small>[ September 14, 2002, 03:30 PM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>

 

[stevemel]

Talked to Rickety and they suggested that I check all the above gounds you mentioned, and I cleaned and reconnected them before I even did the test, hoping that would be the case, but of course it was not. Road test failed misserably, like I knew it would. Need to setup up appt. with Rickety and have them look at it, they think possible cam sensor problem, I have no idea, the RPM needle bounces right before the engine shuts off, but the engine does not rev???

 

[luigisho]

That is a symptom of crank sensor failure. Maybe the DIS or EEC too as they all process the function. Is the dis grounded correctly? If it is the dis or eec the easiest thing to do would be to swap out parts with another SHO owner with known good parts. I included the dis and eec because of the coil 1,2,&3 failure codes which aren't usually found with typical crank sensor failure. At least in my limited experience.