EEC scanner checks out "111" - does this mean my wiring is okay??

[92ShoOff]

I have a number of threads going here for those of you that haven't seen. I'm trying to determine why my new motor won't fire up and we're looking at a number of possibilities-- bad fuel (10 months old), bad fuel pressure and/or pump (fairly new Walbro 190 lb/hr pump), inproper timing, spark plug wires wired incorrectly, bad coil pack, etc.

Now I DID snag the smaller group of wires that ties in with the huge group of wires that are part of the main harness. When lowering the motor back in a few weeks ago the smaller group of wires became snagged onto the motor mount on the firewall side, and it wasn't until my opposite motor mount bottomed out and the firewall side mount was still up in the air that I notcied something was wrong. Lifted the motor back up and found the wires caught around the bolt of the motor mount and they probably stretched all they could until they had no more slack. I'm not sure if any wires were ripped/damaged because it seems like the wiring was still intact after a quick inspection of what I could see.

So now I'm wondering if my motor may not be starting because of some damage that I may have done to this wiring. The smaller group of wires coming off the main harness that I'm talking about go to the conenctions for the EEC tester, a ground on the passenger side fender, and I think something else. I plugged my EEC tester in and it worked fine, and came up with code 111. Can I trust that to mean that all of my wiring off that main harness is fine?? Or would the sensor still give me a code 111 and not know if any of my wiring is ripped?

If the EEC tester tests ALL sensors and EVERYTHING attached to the engine one way or another then I guess I'm safe to say that my wiring is okay. Otherwise if it doesn't test my fuel injectors and/or any other sensor then I may not be in the clear yet, huh? Thanks in advance for your help if you can give me some on this!

-Andrew

 

[egroce11]

111 means system passed. (Sorry I haven't read your other posts, so if I'm repeating what youv'e been told sorry about it.) That means the sensers that are check with the koeo check are working. Check the fuel rail schradier valve to see if you have fuel in the rails. Pull the upper timing belt cover off and line up the cam gear marks with the marks on the gear backing, then check the balancer (the lower pulley) and make sure you are on the 10 degree mark. Check and make sure that the cam position senser is put together right. Another couple of plugs to check that can be swapped and the engine will not start are the maf senser plug and the coil plug. make sure they are plugged into the right unit. (don't ask me how I know because it would really embarass me to tell you). Pull one of your o2's and make sure it hasn't turned black from flooding and bad fuel. I hope one of these or somebody elses suggestions help.

 

[92ShoOff]

Hey those are some good suggestions, thanks! I do know that I have fuel in the rails because I did already open the schrader valve. I think that's my next thing to do is pull off the upper timing cover and line those marks on the cam pulleys up. I'm using an under-drive pulley from ASP and it has no index marks on the pulley, so I'll probably just end up pulling the spark plug out of the #1 cylinder and looking down that little hole to see if the piston is at TDC. I know I lined the index marks on the crank sprocket up when I put the belt on, but if I recall correctly I think you can get two different results lining up the crank sprocket dot with the mark on the oil pump-- one being the #1 piston at TDC, the other NOT being at TDC (I forget what position). I may have accidentally set the marks up with the #1 piston NOT at TDC because I think I rotated the crank after I put the heads on and may have gotten things out of sync.

I know that the CID is facing the right direction, and the little metal piece attached to the end of the rear exhaust cam that the sensor runs off of is installed correctly because the holes on the metal piece are off-center and you can only put it on one way. I don't think I crossed the MAF and coil pack plugs because the coil pack plug won't reach the MAF in my case. The one I connected to the MAF is the same group of wires that has the ACT sensor on it so I should be good there I but I will double check because obviously someone else made this mistake

I'll check the O2's also and see what they look like. If I recall correctly before cranking her up for the first time I pulled the front O2 sensor and it looked pretty black. The car was burning oil for the longest time out the valve stem seals, so that may be why it was black. But if it's black and there's no fuel on it should I still be in good shape?? Thanks again for you reply.. I appreciate it a bunch man!