eatc code reads 02

[bushmaster]

Some demographics on 90 SHO include:
Can't seem to get any heat into cab & control unit only blows through the defrost pathway. I am getting heat to & from the heater core (both hoses are hot) & it seems to have a vacuum supply. I did the self diagnostics test and the display will read 02 ..... does anybody know what this means?
Ford Dealerships don't seem to know, Thanx!

 

[projectSHO89]

An 02 code is generally due to a faulty Blend Door Actuator or that the EATC has lost one of its fused feeds.

Check I/P fuse F17 first.

 

[goalieman59]

when mine did that the blend door was bad.

 

[bushmaster]

I checked all the see through fuses in the fuse panel and all looked good.
How would I fix the faulty Blend Door Actuator?

 

[bushmaster]

Did you have to pull the dash & heater core shroud to fix it?

 

[projectSHO89]

Just the dash.

 

[bushmaster]

You don't think the problem would be in the EATC do you?

 

[jmpSHO]

I'm with everyone else on the bad Blend Door Actuator. If you end up pulling the dash to fix it I would also replace the heater core too.

 

[sperold]

Big job but well worth it.
Many people have done it and there is a lot of info on this forum. In a nutshell, the dash has to be lifted up a bit and the whole heater box contraption has to come out from the interior.... which means you have to discharge your AC unit. And get your heater core hoses off the heater core piping without breaking the core, which is not easy either.
I would wait for a heated garage or good weather.... and lots of uninterrupted time on a weekend.
Does anyone know of a way to manually move the door to full heat in the meantime?

 

[projectSHO89]

Big job but well worth it.
Many people have done it and there is a lot of info on this forum. In a nutshell, the dash has to be lifted up a bit and the whole heater box contraption has to come out from the interior.... which means you have to discharge your AC unit. And get your heater core hoses off the heater core piping without breaking the core, which is not easy either.
I would wait for a heated garage or good weather.... and lots of uninterrupted time on a weekend.
Does anyone know of a way to manually move the door to full heat in the meantime?

There is little point in making a hard job many times harder if the heater core does not need to be replaced.

The BDA can be replaced in a couple of hours by a first-timer. Replacing the heater core is wildly more difficult for someone who has never done it before. Even someone who has done it before won't be enthusiastic about doing it again. I've done several and there's no chance in **** that I'd do one again unless it were actually needed.

To replace the BDA, just drop the steering column onto the driver's seat, then pull the dash back enough to get to the BDA. The BDA is mounted just under the base of the windshield on top of the HVAC plenum. An 8 mm racheting box wrench will make its R/R much easier.

 

[sperold]

Good advice from Projectsho89.
I was under the impression that the blend door actuator failed because the blend door fell off it's hinge and wouldnot move anymore. Then the blend door actuator killed itself trying to move a door that won't move. But if that is not the case, and the blend door actuator died of natural causes, then the job is much less work.

 

[projectSHO89]

Good point. I haven't seen a blend door fail yet on a Taurus (it isn't an F-150 or Expy, after all).

The BDA seems to be a relatively common failure on EATC-equipped bulls.

 

[SHOZ123]

CHECK ACTUATOR DRIVE


Disconnect both connectors from EATC control head and drive actuator in both directions using any 9-12 volt battery.

The following pins can be jumped to use the vehicle battery. Ensure the ignition is in the RUN position.

All pins are located on the LEFT connector (E6DB-14489-VA).

Trial 1: Pin 24 (BK, 57) to Pin 22 (DB/LG, 249)

Trial 2: Pin 24 (BK, 57) to Pin 21 (0,250)

Does actuator drive in both directions?