Dynamat, how much ?

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crazy_canadian

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I currently have the interior of my car completly appart (exept for the dash)
Since I'll be repainting the floor, I though about installing dynamat (or another brand) before putting the carpet back in.

I will also do the doors, and the trunk lid.

I though about the roof. Is it a good idea ? Will it stick, and will the gain will be noticeable ?
I only run 500watts RMS of bass. But the car's body is noisy and rattling as ****.
 

lowc

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its pretty pricey my old man picked up 2 i want to say 10 ft rolls (not to sure on the size)and he paid $350
 

hawkeye18

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I wouldn't recommend it for the roof - it's heavy, and it stinks when it gets hot (it's tar-based). And on the roof, it will get hot. I'd recommend it for the trunk and doors. It weighs a ton, so I wouldn't just slather it everywhere.

If the trunk is rattling, the two suspects are usually the lid itself, and the license plate. The way to solve the license plate is to use screws with rubber grommets behind the plate to isolate it from the trunk... and make sure they're tight.

The fix for the lid is those two little rubber feet thingies that contact the lid when closed. Unscrew those a little more to create a sort of interference fit when it's closed. This will put pressure on the lid and keep it from vibrating freely. It will also make it pop open more when you release the trunk.

If you're missing them, you can find them on any taurus.
 

Jh8990

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http://www.secondskinaudio.com/

^ buy that instead. actually is better than dynamat and not a cheap alternative like fat mat or rammat which are asphalt based. this product is butyl based and is pretty thick and does its job well.

I also know the owner. His name is Ant, he's a nice guy and sometimes gives you deals just for the **** of it, like 15% off of stuff.

if you are planning on doing the floors and the trunk then I would recommend you buy some Luxury Liner Pro, that is the product that actually kills the road noise and everything that you hear. and on top of that you can put some damplifier pro and on the doors as well.

Although I don't recommend it, i think if you get A-stock damp pro then it is guaranteed not to fall off of the roof. B-stock is not guaranteed on inverse placing.

I have damp pro throughout out my SHO and it very well serves its purpose. the difference it made on the doors was unbelievable.
 

sandrew

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+1

The Damplifier Pro (Dynamat style stuff) requires only 25-30% coverage on most panels to stop vibration. You put the Luxury Liner Pro on top of that (full coverage) to block unwanted noise. Luxury Liner Pro is mass vinyl + closed cell foam fused together.

Closing off the access holes in the door panel will also help keep out noise and your front speakers will sound better. Just cover them with something removable like aluminum flashing, plexiglass or fiberglass & self-tapping screws.
 

sandrew

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Heck yeah, Ant answered all questions personally and was extremely helpful.

AND gives discounts quite regularly. :)
 

Toul

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Id recommend the similar products from Elemental Designs, top quality stuff, much much cheaper than dynomat. And put the stuff everywhere you can quite honestly. Your main goals should be sealing the baffel between the front of your speaker and the airspace within the doors. Honestly though, put it everywhere you can. Worry less about the roof rough and focus on doors, doors, firewall floorpanels, wheel wells, all over trunk. You're sealing sound in, and sealing sound out. If you want to go all out and do a superb job, you buy the paint on stuff, put the butle/mylar stuff on top of that, and then the foam backed stuff on top of that. Wouldn't be a bad idea and taking a detailed look at the condition of your weather seals on your doors.

Proper deadening is IMO the MOST important part of building a decent audiophile environment inside a car.
 
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hawkeye18

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Id recommend the similar products from Elemental Designs, top quality stuff, much much cheaper than dynomat. And put the stuff everywhere you can quite honestly. Your main goals should be sealing the baffel between the front of your speaker and the airspace within the doors. Honestly though, put it everywhere you can. Worry less about the roof rough and focus on doors, doors, firewall floorpanels, wheel wells, all over trunk. You're sealing sound in, and sealing sound out. If you want to go all out and do a superb job, you buy the paint on stuff, put the butle/mylar stuff on top of that, and then the foam backed stuff on top of that. Wouldn't be a bad idea and taking a detailed look at the condition of your weather seals on your doors.

Proper deadening is IMO the MOST important part of building a decent audiophile environment inside a car.

Yes, and while you are enjoying your concert-quality sound, you can also wonder why it's slower in every direction and gets worse gas mileage... Oh wait, it's because you put 400lbs of sound deadening in your car! Sure, it makes it quiet, but there are consequences (which are pretty much the same). The secret is to strike a balance.
 

jonheese

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Yes, and while you are enjoying your concert-quality sound, you can also wonder why it's slower in every direction and gets worse gas mileage... Oh wait, it's because you put 400lbs of sound deadening in your car! Sure, it makes it quiet, but there are consequences (which are pretty much the same). The secret is to strike a balance.
Actually, it's a little faster in the forward direction... when braking. :biggrin:
 

Phoenix

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You might wanna look at Eastwoods too , they sell a private named Dynamat.

Cheaper.
 

crazy_canadian

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I used some stuff made here locally (actually, in my town) It looks like the other products, does not smell anything and works well.
So far the stuff is installed and the interior is back in place.
I'll post pictures soon in a new thread.
 

DJSHO91

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I've heard alot of good things about LizardSkin. Several friends have used it on their street rods and sing it's praise. It also offers the ability to apply it whereever you wish.
 
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