Do I need to tune my SHO after an installation of K&N CAI?

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wbsho

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Do I need to tune my SHO after an installation of K&N CAI? My friend suggested that I may need to so that it doesnt run lean and mess up other components so I wanted to confirm.
 

SM105K

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No, but unfortunately you added a hot air intake your SHO. A K&N drop in into the factory air box flows more air than the stock turbos can actually use. You also retain the factory ram air cold air intake as well.
 

SM105K

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Here is what I have
Unless the filter is completely sealed (like the factory air box) you have a hot air intake. It is pulling air directly from the hot engine compartment.
 

Dhanning

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Unless the filter is completely sealed (like the factory air box) you have a hot air intake. It is pulling air directly from the hot engine compartment.
I have the K/N filter and box and a stage 3 Livernois 93 octane tune. I like the intake noise from the K/N and I have not noticed any adverse effects or performance drop. It seems like the K/N is built to try and seal with the hood but probably not air tight. I have not used it during the summer months so I may have different results when it gets hotter. I added the K/N after the box BTW. I plan on making a trip to Livernois and having them tune it on the Dyno at some point.
Unless the filter is completely sealed (like the factory air box) you have a hot air intake. It is pulling air directly from the hot engine compartment.
 

SM105K

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I have the K/N filter and box and a stage 3 Livernois 93 octane tune. I like the intake noise from the K/N and I have not noticed any adverse effects or performance drop. It seems like the K/N is built to try and seal with the hood but probably not air tight. I have not used it during the summer months so I may have different results when it gets hotter. I added the K/N after the box BTW. I plan on making a trip to Livernois and having them tune it on the Dyno at some point.
I wouldn't let Livernois tune my lawnmower. Do your research. There are better tuners out there (without special tuning devices) that will deliver more power and better reliability then LMS.
 

Dhanning

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I have the K/N filter and box and a stage 3 Livernois 93 octane tune. I like the intake noise from the K/N and I have not noticed any adverse effects or performance drop. It seems like the K/N is built to try and seal with the hood but probably not air tight. I have not used it during the summer months so I may have different results when it gets hotter. I added the K/N after the box BTW. I plan on making a trip to Livernois and having them tune it on the Dyno at some point
I wouldn't let Livernois tune my lawnmower. Do your research. There are better tuners out there (without special tuning devices) that will deliver more power and better reliability then LMS.
I have heard this after I got the tune. I personally have experienced no issues after about 10k driving. I did go to Livernois for the process so not sure if that makes any difference. After being in their shop it seems like they have a long history of tuning Fords with success. However, it seems like there are several posters who do not like the results from a Livernois tune. I have not had a bad experience thus far. However, I do not drag or track my car so maybe I do not see the downsides due to the lack of that activity. Anyway, when I get it tuned on the dyno at Livernois I will let you know if My experience changes.
 

SM105K

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May the odds be forever in your favor.
 

GotGrip?

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Just skip to 4:55 on this video and it will explain how it works. The numbers peak though negligible will vary from each intake, but they all do roughly the same thing. Intake is fine regardless of what others are saying, but drop LMS if you want more reliable tune with more power.


 

SM105K

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Just skip to 4:55 on this video and it will explain how it works. The numbers peak though negligible will vary from each intake, but they all do roughly the same thing. Intake is fine regardless of what others are saying, but drop LMS if you want more reliable tune with more power.


Those are done with the hood open in 68 degree weather. Those intake temps are no where near what the actual temps would be with the hood closed and a heat soak engine compartment. He needed to get the engine to operating temp and do the tests back to back with the hood closed on the dyno. I am willing to put money the dyno runs are lower, because the IAT's will be hotter, the stock IC wont be able cool the air efficiently, and on 93 the computer will pull timing.

I would trust Gale Banks on the science then some SHO owner with a K&N on a stick not replicating real world results.


If you look at updated intakes, performance companies have gone to a completely sealed box that draws air from outside the engine compartment.
 
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GotGrip?

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Those are done with the hood open in 68 degree weather. Those intake temps are no where near what the actual temps would be with the hood closed and a heat soak engine compartment. He needed to get the engine to operating temp and do the tests back to back with the hood closed on the dyno. I am willing to put money the dyno runs are lower, because the IAT's will be hotter, the stock IC wont be able cool the air efficiently, and on 93 the computer will pull timing.

I would trust Gale Banks on the science then some SHO owner with a K&N on a stick not replicating real world results.


If you look at updated intakes, performance companies have gone to a completely sealed box that draws air from outside the engine compartment.
I had posted a photo on this forum last summer sometime with my intake temp, iat2 and amb temp , Amb temp was about 3 degrees higher than intake temp which is negligible and it was around 80 degrees outside. If "hot air intakes" didn't help at all or were inefficient you wouldn't see guys with filters right off the turbos under the hood on 600,700,800,1000+ whp vehicles. Once the vehicle gets moving the engine area becomes a high pressure area moving hot air up and out the back of the hood area. There is also an air inlet right in front of the filter so as long as you're moving fresh ambient air should be flowing directly into the filter area. So basically, its sucking in trapped hot air while at idle but as soon as you start moving even a little it is not longer a concern. But I mean, if you want to spend like $1k on a fancy intake you certainly could too.
 

SM105K

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I had posted a photo on this forum last summer sometime with my intake temp, iat2 and amb temp , Amb temp was about 3 degrees higher than intake temp which is negligible and it was around 80 degrees outside. If "hot air intakes" didn't help at all or were inefficient you wouldn't see guys with filters right off the turbos under the hood on 600,700,800,1000+ whp vehicles. Once the vehicle gets moving the engine area becomes a high pressure area moving hot air up and out the back of the hood area. There is also an air inlet right in front of the filter so as long as you're moving fresh ambient air should be flowing directly into the filter area. So basically, its sucking in trapped hot air while at idle but as soon as you start moving even a little it is not longer a concern. But I mean, if you want to spend like $1k on a fancy intake you certainly could too.
Like I said I trust Gale Banks esp with turbo combos. His data leads to the opposite direction.

To comment on the, "If hot air intakes" didn't help at all or were inefficient you wouldn't see guys with filters right off the turbos under the hood on 600,700,800,1000+ whp vehicles." The majority of those cars either have an efficient IC set up i.e. below ambient air temp (either A2A or A2W) or they run an alcohol based fuel so it really doesn't matter what the intake temp is.

I am actually one of those guys right now with my Lexus. My turbo sits right next to the engine and exhaust manifold. I do not have any room to place a filter outside the engine compartment. However, I will when I swap out intake manifolds when the new motor goes in. I have the ability to log pre turbo temps and at the throttle body. So I will log to see what the temp difference is between the two when the times comes. I am willing to bet with a non-under the hold air source power will pick up. A colder intake temp makes an efficient IC better. A hotter intake temp makes an inefficient IC worse.

The stock SHO has a complete dog shit efficient stock IC. The majority of us know this. It is critical to keep the intake temps as low as possible, to help the stock IC not struggle, because the computer will pull timing on 91/93 octane.
 
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