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zach44102

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HEY!!!!!!!! My motor ran just fine! In fact it ran perfect! untill the set nut on the tensioner back off and it blew the side of the engine up.
 

SHOmethewayhome

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whoa whoa whoa?

did the tensioner launch out through the timing cover and hit the ground after sheering the stud it rides on flush with the block?

if so i can impart some wisdom for removal as I've had to do it twice from being stubborn.

take all the accessories off and the covers remove the passenger side wheel and the inner fender well plastic, then get a welder and a nut with a smaller ID than the OD of the stud and weld the nut very carefully to the stud. it's gonna be frustrating as **** because you're going to break the weld once or twice till you can get the thing just right.

once you do very gently back it out of the block, clean out the bore, and then properly install the tensioner.

and never EVER EVER I MEAN EFFING EVER ask me how or why I know this.
 

zach44102

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whoa whoa whoa?

did the tensioner launch out through the timing cover and hit the ground after sheering the stud it rides on flush with the block?

if so i can impart some wisdom for removal as I've had to do it twice from being stubborn.

take all the accessories off and the covers remove the passenger side wheel and the inner fender well plastic, then get a welder and a nut with a smaller ID than the OD of the stud and weld the nut very carefully to the stud. it's gonna be frustrating as **** because you're going to break the weld once or twice till you can get the thing just right.

once you do very gently back it out of the block, clean out the bore, and then properly install the tensioner.

and never EVER EVER I MEAN EFFING EVER ask me how or why I know this.

Yes that is what happen, currently i have brocken a easy out inside of it and gone through 3 cobolt bits trying to drill out the hardened steel easy out. Now i cut a slit in it with a dremel ad im going to attempt to back it out with a pair of vise grips and a flathead screwdriver, if that does not work i laned on trying that.
 

zach44102

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So your lack of spark, fuel and a fvcked crank sensor last month were just BS threads? :nut:

nope. they were legit. I had a ****** up crank sensor, and i also had a split wire at the coil pack which ended up being the 12v wire. The fuel was just simply a battery that is POS.
 

SHOhopefull

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You all can try and tape him up... He's too damn wiry for my fat ass LOL... I don't feel like getting knees and elbows...
 

jayro

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and never EVER EVER I MEAN EFFING EVER ask me how or why I know this.

this cracks me up, only cause I have so many of those stories. I'm one of those that fixes one thing and breaks two others in the process. :laugh_ti:

And the fact that this thread is still alive and kicking is even better.:)
 

shoon

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Or not annoyed me so much and I would have answered the phone.

demotivational-posters-and-suddenly.jpg


kidding :p
 

NovaSS

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Your all wrong.

You have two forces in the intake runner while running... one is the air molecule flow it self and another is a pressure wave front that travels at the speed of sound. If you notice the horns are set at right angles to the plenum wall with little clearance. The bell mouth allows for smooth air flow during the intake stroke but during overlap the air flow is reversed. The pressure wave travels back up the port faster then the air flow, smacks the wall and reverberates back into the port, prevent air flow from reintering the plenum. It acts as a check valve.
 

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