Defective Pressure Plate?

[javve]

I got a Sachs clutch off of ebay over a year ago, put it in and ended up with the clutch not wanting to fully engage or disengage. It sat so long just because I didn't look forward to dropping the transmission again. I thought it was an issue with the throwout bearing, but it appears the pressure plate may be defective. The clutch disk was installed correctly, and verified when the tranny was dropped. One picture shows the splines all sitting flat. This happens when the bolts are hand tightened with a ratchet (using just one hand), and I had them torqued to factory specs (approx. 20 ft. pounds). The second picture shows what the splines do when the bolts are barely tight (the splines are out). The splines stick out like they are supposed to do. Do I need to replace the new pressure plate? Wish I had done things right away, would have been covered for a return.

Edit: I found out that the splines do flatten out. I think the problem may be with the way I was holding the throwout bearing in place. I was in a hurry because the car needed to get moved, and the bolt was too long not letting the throwout bearing go all the way back. :\

Splines Flat


Splines Out

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Friction disk in backwards??

 

[javve]

As I had put in the post, it is no in backward. It has been double and triple checked.

 

[shomethe$$$]

The pressure plate could be over compressed. Buts its hard to tell without better pictures. Doesn't mean its a defective disk, something could of fell or broke off in it. Doesn't look too different than this one.

I don't know what you mean by throw bearing bolt, only bolt in that area is the throw out bearing shaft bolt. If you didn't put the original back in and the new one is too long it may hit the case then the shaft wouldn't rotate like its suppose to.

Get better pictures.

 

[javve]

Will do what I can. I know the angle was a bit off and may be a problem. The throwout bearing has a bolt that goes into the fork. The original wasn't there. We found a better bolt that doesn't hit anything.

 

[itwonder]

Will do what I can. I know the angle was a bit off and may be a problem. The throwout bearing has a bolt that goes into the fork. The original wasn't there. We found a better bolt that doesn't hit anything.

It's a little plastic pin, not a bolt, that hooks the TOB to the fork. If you buy a Ceramic TOB from SHONUT, a new plastic pin comes with it. They don't come in the clutch kits I've seen. I imagine there is some good reason Ford used the plastic pin instead of a bolt.

 

[javve]

It's a little plastic pin, not a bolt, that hooks the TOB to the fork. If you buy a Ceramic TOB from SHONUT, a new plastic pin comes with it. They don't come in the clutch kits I've seen. I imagine there is some good reason Ford used the plastic pin instead of a bolt.

Thanks for that. I read into the torque settings wrong and thought I seen something for the fork. I already have a new throwout bearing so I'm wondering if the plastic pins that are designed to keep the carpet in place in spots would work. My guess is Ford did that in case it ever came out, it wouldn't chew things up.

(The thanks option seems to be gone with updated forum)

 

[javve]

I got some different angles for pictures. This is at 20 Ft Lbs of torque.

 

[kevinspann]

It looks kind of strange to me too. I was never happy with my Sachs clutch, but I don't recall looking at how it was when bolted down. Mine does work very close to the bottom of the pedal, which makes sense if the fingers are flattened out.

 

[shomethe$$$]

I don't see any issue, the pressure plate fingers don't usually stick out with a brand new clutch disk. Yours looks no different than the other one's. Never seen a defective pressure plate only broken ones when the disk breaks. Put the trans on with a few bolts, put the clutch cable and shifter, and see if it goes in out of gear. Turn the engine or drive shaft to verify its completely disengaging. 20 ft-lbs is kind of low, mine tighten down more than the specs, probably 25 ft-lbs could just be error in the torque wrench since I did use a 1/2".

 

[AREA 91]

Pressure plate bolts are torqued in 2 steps. 12 ft lbs, then 24 ft lbs. Use loc time on the bolts.

 

[itwonder]

Now here's a defective PP and TOB! Remarkably, the car could still be driven, sort of, if you put it in first gear before starting the engine.

 

[javve]

Thanks everyone. I went to change the bushings for the fork rod since I didn't get a chance the first time the transmission was down, and ended up with a broken piece on the tranny since the fork was pretty much seized to the rod. Now to fix this... then I can what was suggested (On top of computer crash and loss of years worth of files)

 

[TimboSHO]

The best fix for that is a new transmission case. Unless you know a really good aluminum welder that you trust, and the holes can be lined up perfectly.....

 

[javve]

I hope to find a transmission and transfer the bell housing over. I know the transmission is good so would like to go with a known good rather than one from a junk yard. Having another transmission around that could be rebuilt wouldn't be bad in case this one were to go bad. Transmission is $55 at the JY if I can find one.

 

[AREA 91]

I would have that welded.
It's getting harder to find a good tranny.
If you did find another case half, you will need to measure the bearing pre load for the diff. You won be able to just swap the case half.

 

[kevinspann]

I'd also have it welded. Line it up with a bushing in it, clamp it down with a pair of vice grips or something on one side to hold it in place, then weld it.

 

[itwonder]

When I first looked at it, I thought time for new case. But on reflection, I concur with the other guys; find somebody who is talented with a TIG, and weld it.