Crank, no start, oil lamp - multiple repairs fixes deep, not sure what's next

[autoteleology]

2010 MKS EcoBoost, about 85K miles. Started having a lean condition with misfires, eventually died while at a self-service car wash.

Here's what I've done so far to fix:

- Replaced all spark plugs, ignition coils.
- Replaced oil pressure sensor (got from Amazon, questionable if it was the correct part? It was in a bag labelled the right name, but the housing was light blue instead of white, and the socket size was different)
- Changed oil to 5W-30, changed oil filter
- Had PCM shipped off to Circuit Board Medics after faulty PCM diagnosis from independent and also a Ford dealership. Company said PCM was fine, refunded my money, returned. Turns out there was a blown fuse in engine bay (Fuse 47, PCM Vehicle Power 1). Great diagnosis, clearly.
- Replaced old battery with new AGM.
- Had LPFP and HPFP tested by shop, allegedly making good pressure
- Replaced all six injectors (VERY clogged with carbon) - some progress, now fires occasionally while cranking.
- 10/20: Replaced fuel module with Dorman OEM Fix unit, still no progress.

What is my next step? I'm honestly baffled as to what could possibly be the problem at this point. Maybe the cam phasers are failed / stuck open / screwing up due to the heavier oil weight? Maybe I fixed the real issue but got sent a mislabelled oil sensor? I don't think I have any timing codes, but maybe a misfire made me jump a tooth on my timing chain or something? Any opinions?

 

[SHOdded]

can you post video of what it sounds like while cranking, hood propped open? that can sometimes help a lot with diagnostics.

did you reset the BMS after installing the new battery? may have to update battery type as well if oem battery was SLA.

if you suspect fuel related issues, have you tried starting fluid?

wouldn't rule out the throttle body or MAP sensors since you did have that issue with all the crud in the intercooler. the manifold and intake valves could be caked as well, a borescope can figure that out.

have you pulled codes from the pcm? a properly working pcm will display any setcodes, or in-progress issues under mode 6 data. nowadays codes can prevent starting.

 

[Texas Marauder]

5w30 oil is fine. Ford quickly figured out that 5w20 was insufficient for this engine.

No BMS on a 2010.

Forscan for Android or iOS can be set up with gauges that can monitor fuel pressures desired and actual and many other parameters.

I'd check that first.

 

[BradM]

Shoot some starting fluid into the intake while cranking. If it runs on starting fluid, then issue is fuel. Easy and quick test to narrow the scope.

 

[autoteleology]

Hello, thanks to all for your time and advice. I appreciate it, this has been a real head scratcher so far. Don't want to keep throwing hundreds and hundreds of dollars at mechanics for diagnoses and even more for parts, and still not having a car that even starts.

can you post video of what it sounds like while cranking, hood propped open? that can sometimes help a lot with diagnostics.

Just replaced the fuel control module with the Dorman OEM Fix version off of RockAuto. Still no start.

Here is video of the car trying and failing to start. It's like it almost fires up at at the very beginning, but then just cranks and cranks afterwards, accomplishing nothing.

have you pulled codes from the pcm?
a properly working pcm will display any setcodes, or in-progress issues under mode 6 data.
nowadays codes can prevent starting.

I don't think I have any codes other than they typical P1000 after a KAM reset, but I also don't have a real scan tool, just an SCT X4.

I do, however, still have the oil lamp:

if you suspect fuel related issues, have you tried starting fluid? / Shoot some starting fluid into the intake while cranking

wouldn't rule out the throttle body or MAP sensors since you did have that issue with all the crud in the intercooler. the manifold and intake valves could be caked as well, a borescope can figure that out.

I'm gonna be honest, I'm not a mechanic, or really even mechanically inclined, I'm just a dummy who can follow instructions if they're written in specific enough detail. I would appreciate if you could write a tutorial on how to do this stuff, but I'll need to take some time to figure that stuff out on my own otherwise.

Forscan for Android or iOS can be set up with gauges that can monitor fuel pressures desired and actual and many other parameters.

Will do. Seems simple enough.

 

[Texas Marauder]

Buy FORScan Lite for your cell phone. 7 bucks. Buy the proper bluetooth adapter. I use vLlinker FD for Android. 35 dollars on Amazon. In the dashboard you can monitor hundreds of PIDS on all modules. I still think you need to verify, in the PCM, low and high pressure fuel, actual and desired. There is a learning curve with FORScan Lite but, you can't screw up anything.

Download FORScan

 

[BradM]

For the starting fluid, disconnect the intake tube from the throttle body. In your video, that's the ********* tube coming in on the left side of the engine. It's held on by a hose clamp (8mm). Loosen the clamp and pull the tube away from the throttle body. Then squirt starting fluid into the intake while someone cranks the engine. If it runs on starting fluid, you have a problem with fuel. If it doesn't start then you have an ignition issue.

 

[IamNine]

Hey all, I am a friend of Auto and have turned some wrenches on this car. I was wondering if anyone might be able to contribute some specific information in terms of the oil pressure light. After I replaced the coil packs and plugs a couple months ago, the car started up and ran like a champ. I drove it just 10mins across town and as I was headed back to home with it, it just sputtered out and threw the oil pressure light. There were no new codes that I could read with the handheld tuner that Auto has at that moment, literally just the oil pressure light. So I am wondering what exactly that light means and what it is trying to tell us. When I changed the injectors, there was fresh fuel in both rails, the old ones were just clogged up with carbon. I am at least 95% sure this car no longer has a fuel problem, the only 5% of uncertainty comes from not having tried to start it with starting fluid. Any input about the oil pressure light would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

 

[Texas Marauder]

The PCM does not monitor oil pressure. The sensor is only for the light on the dash.



Have you checked for spark? Pull a coil, put a plug in it, ground the plug, crank the engine.

If the PCM is powering on, the problem is either fuel or spark.

 

[IamNine]

The PCM does not monitor oil pressure. The sensor is only for the light on the dash.

View attachment 88761

Have you checked for spark? Pull a coil, put a plug in it, ground the plug, crank the engine.

If the PCM is powering on, the problem is either fuel or spark.

Is the oil pressure sensor capable of preventing the car from running?

 

[Texas Marauder]

No, not as far as I know. Every other Ford i've dealt with, the light was just that. Nothing to do with the engine running, starting or not.

 

[IamNine]

No

Okay, that certainly helps quite a bit. If that is the case, I just need to check for spark again, huh?

 

[Texas Marauder]

Even the oil pressure gauges are fake. Since about 1990, the same switch is used for a light or a gauge. The gauge will only read 0 psi or a predetermined psi.

I assume you've checked all the fuses.

 

[IamNine]

Even the oil pressure gauges are fake. Since about 1990, the same switch is used for a light or a gauge. The gauge will only read 0 psi or a predetermined psi.

I assume you've checked all the fuses.

I did when reinstalling the computer and new battery at that time, but have not since. Will have to look again and see if any have been blown since.

 

[Texas Marauder]

I'd try swapping the run/start relay and the fuel pump relay with the reversing lamp relay and A/C clutch relay. Not exactly sure what the run/start relay does.

When you first turn the key on, do you hear the in-tank fuel pump run for @1 second?

 

[IamNine]

How can I get it to prime the pump without immediately trying to start? Just press button with ni foot on brake? I know it's a noob question, but I've only had two cars with push to start and never had no start problems, so I don't exactly know how to trigger that.

 

[Texas Marauder]

Not exactly sure on push to start. Keyed ignition runs the fuel pump for 1 second when the key is turned to run. Have someone listen by the tank and push the start button twice with your foot off the brake pedal.

Or monitor the fuel pressure PIDS.

 

[IamNine]

Not exactly sure on push to start. Keyed ignition runs the fuel pump for 1 second when the key is turned to run. Have someone listen by the tank and push the start button twice with your foot off the brake pedal.

Okay, thanks for the advice. I'll certainly give that a try. I really want this car to come to life, so the more thorough I can be, the better!

 

[Texas Marauder]

An example of what you can monitor with FORScan Lite.

This is key on, engine off. FLP_DSD is what the PCM is looking for, FLP is actual low pressure fuel. FRP_DSD high pressure desired, FRP is actual rail pressure.

 

[kryptto]

Or monitor the fuel pressure PIDS

This is critical to see what is happening.