Crank but wont start

[SHOWYA]

Had to replace plug well seals. Replace at the same time MAP sensor and Knock sensor. After assembling engine back together it will not start. Fuel pump was becoming louder so i replaced with 190lph pump. Still nothing. Replaced relay because of no fuel pressure! STILL NO START, IT WILL ONLY CRANK. Went even to the extent to replace the CPS sensor. Checked for codes and all i get is a Code #10 and 111.
It has been a month and no luck. PLEASE HELP!!!

 

[projectSHO89]

So..

Do you have fuel pressure?

Do you have spark (at the proper time)?

Do you have airflow (press the throttle 1/4 way)?

Troubleshooting is a bit more exact than guessing, which from your post, sounds like what you've been doing.

Steve

 

[SHOWYA]

Steve thanks for the info.

I got a hold of a fuel pressure teting kit and i have no pressure at all. Gauge needle wont even move.

also ... how can i check the proper timing on the spark?

Thanks!

 

[projectSHO89]

If you have no fuel pressure, then the fuel pump either is not running or there is a complete blockage of the line somewhere. Turn the key to RUN and listen carefully. You should hear the pump run for 1-2 seconds.

If the pump does not activate, troubleshoot the electrical supply by following the steps here: http://www.shoforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=17;t=003274#000010

Use a timing light connected to either the #1 or #5 plug wire to see if you're getting spark at 10 DBTDC. Since you have no fuel pressure, you need to concentrate on THAT fault at this time.

Steve

 

[SHOWYA]

I do hear the fuel pump 'whine' for about 2 sec when i open the ignition switch. Is trouble shooting on the electrical necessary to double check??

 

[projectSHO89]

That "whine" means the pump is getting power.

When the pump runs, your fuel pressure guage should be showing pressure at the test valve on the rail.

No pressure at the rail means either improper usage of the fuel guage, a clog (fuel filter), restriction in line, or mis-installation of the fuel pump.

Steve

 

[SHOWYA]

Well i checked the fuel pump and filter buy diconnecting the end of the filter and then opening the ignition switch and fuel went through with no problem. I removed the intake,fuel regulator and damper and tried the same thing, fuel comes rushing out, so i know to that point there is nothing thats cloging the line.

Now i did notice that the damper has holes above the thread(i think i dont remeber correctly). Do these have do be alingned to the rail in anyway?

Also, is the damper the one that goes on the first rail(facing the front of the car not firewall)?

With the damper back on and the regulator out i opened the ignition again and i found out that the second fuel rail(rear towards firewall) slowly fills up, i checked the connecting line between the rails and no clogs.

So i can only think that the damper has gone bad or is not bolted on correctly.

Is there anything else i can do?

Thanks!

 

[projectSHO89]

Interesting... a possible dampener problem. Haven't heard of one of those before.

There should be no requirement that the holes in the dampener be aligned in any direction to the rail. The Helms makes no mention of it.

The dampener is on the rail that is towards the radiator and is the inlet to the front rail. The regulator is on the output of the back rail and is closest to the firewall. It also has the vacuum line connector.

It sounds like you have sucessfully isolated the problem to either a restriction/clog in the front rail or to a defective dampener.

When installing the dampener, the Helms says to use new crush washers on both sides of the "banjo" connection and to torque the dampener to 18-25 lb-ft. The seals are listed on AutoZones website as GP-Sorenson # 800-9401 for $1.99. It appears that the dampener is E9DZ-9F775-A for around $59. Good luck finding it though as PartsVoice could not locate one in their system. It is also available from NAPA (Echlin -$70) or O'Reilly's (Borg Warner - $58).

Steve

 

[SHOWYA]

Well thanks alot for the info. I will replace it and hopefully that will be the end of the problem. I will keep posting.

 

[SHOWYA]

Ok i put everything back together. Made many calls and no body can find a dampener. So the original is back on. When trying to turn un the car if will some times but it will die right away. And it dies even faster when i try to keep it alive by pressing the gas pedal.

HELP!!!

 

[SHOWYA]

Sorry about the miss-spelling here it is again...

Ok i put everything back together. Made many calls and no body can find a dampener. So the original is back on. When trying to turn on the car, it will some times, but it will die right away. And it dies even faster when i try to keep it alive by pressing the gas pedal.

I have also tried gas pedal all the way down and that will just crank.

 

[projectSHO89]

Did you try NAPA or O'Reilly's? It is definately available aftermarket.

How about a junkyard or someone parting out an old car?

Until the part is replaced, further messing around with it is likely a waste of time.

You can probably install a generic "banjo" bolt with new crush washers for troubleshooting. Just match the thread pitch and diameter if possible to get a supply line attached to the rail.

Steve

 

[SHOWYA]

I took manifold apart again to show them the dampener and the washers. I went to autozone with the part number you gave me Steve, and it was not the crush washers in the package with that number, the ones there were some small rubber washers. Tried other auto stores in my area and nothing. I was frustrated not able to find these crush washers i even went to a hardware store.

I used the old washers and checked the fuel rail... guess what... I GOT FUEL PRESSURE! What the **** is going on?!?!?! around 38PSI when switch is open.

So i put manifold back on.... CAR STARTED UP AFTER A FEW TRIES! RPM needle is dead straight at 900RPM when idling.30 PSI when IDLE. The car runs so smooth! cant wait to install Koni inserts and eibach springs!

Thanks for all your help Steve!