Confused

[lcasada]

2012 SHO 133,*** Miles.

It was running poorly so I changed all 6 injector as well as the waterpump due to a leak. I also changed all the coil packs and spark plugs. I marked the timing chain and used locks on the camshafts while replacing the waterpump. I put the car back together and now it won't start. It has fuel pressure at the rail. It will crank and not start. I tested all the harnesses to the injectors as well as the injectors themselves and they are good. I can't tell if it has spark.

The tachometer doesn't seem move while the car is cranking. I'm absolutely lost. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[yaycandy]

The dum free way. Pull a coil off, and use a spare spark plug and plug it into the coil and ground the spark plug to something metal while trying to start it. And see if it sparks.
Or the not free probably safer way. Buy a spark plug tester that goes between the spark plug and wire/coil and see if it makes spark through the thing.
Either way you will probably need someone else.

Make sure everything is plugged in down the sides of the engine. Should probably check that first.
Remove a vacuum line from the intake manifold and spray something flame able into it and see if it will try to start on it. Then it tells you the spark is there but jecters aint spraying.

 

[lcasada]

I appreciate it. Do you know if the tachometer should bounce when the car is cranking to prove there is RPM signal?

 

[kryptto]

Could always put back, the older but known good coil packs. Also get yourself a OBDLink EX, and download Forscan get a free license - worse comes to worse pay the $12, start going through the dtc's.

Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk

 

[SHOdded]

read codes. these are complex machines tho some things remain simple. maybe the pcm can help decipher the problem.

check all electrical connections.

 

[lcasada]

The codes are just for misfires before I replaced all the injectors and coil packs. I have a really basic scanner. Also, it does have rpm while cranking. Are the coul packs grounded by the screw that attaches them? Should the spark plugs be wet if the car is getting fuel?

 

[Marty]

The coil packs are not grounded by the screws as those inserts to which they are screwed into are potted into a plastic valve cover. Is your check engine light flashing? I just did the water pump replacement and I can guarantee you those cam lock tools have enough play in them to be one tooth off on the camshaft if you changed the secondary chains. Additionally go back over all of your harness connections and squeeze them together so you actually hear or feel the click. Mine fired up but ran rough and quit immediately with the check engine light flashing. "Misfire 4,5,6" Knew it had to be a connection issue, started confirming connections on the harness and low and behold I heard a "click" on the connector that is between the aft valve cover and the intake manifold that has what I think is a check valve with an electrical connection, jumped in, started it and never looked back. Back to the camshafts, even with one tooth off it should still start but will absolutely throw a code. My WAG is a connector for the fuel rail.

 

[lcasada]

The coil packs are not grounded by the screws as those inserts to which they are screwed into are potted into a plastic valve cover. Is your check engine light flashing? I just did the water pump replacement and I can guarantee you those cam lock tools have enough play in them to be one tooth off on the camshaft if you changed the secondary chains. Additionally go back over all of your harness connections and squeeze them together so you actually hear or feel the click. Mine fired up but ran rough and quit immediately with the check engine light flashing. "Misfire 4,5,6" Knew it had to be a connection issue, started confirming connections on the harness and low and behold I heard a "click" on the connector that is anchored to the intake manifold, jumped in, started it and never looked back. Back to the camshafts, even with one tooth off it should still start but will absolutely throw a code. My WAG is a connector for the fuel rail.

I really appreciate it. Should the spark plugs be wet when cranking? Or, because its direction injection, do the plugs stay dry? I don't know If it's a fuel or spark issue.

 

[Marty]

I can't honestly say if the plugs would be wet. I would think unless the pcm sensed ignition that it wouldnt give it fuel. Just a guess tho'
If it ran before you worked on it,even if it was rough and now it don't, it isn't the coil packs or plugs, its a connection.

 

[lcasada]

I think I checked all the connections. I'll go through all of them tomorrow. There really aren't that many. I appreciate all the advice.

 

[kryptto]

I really appreciate it. Should the spark plugs be wet when cranking? Or, because its direction injection, do the plugs stay dry? I don't know If

I think I checked all the connections. I'll go through all of them tomorrow. There really aren't that many. I appreciate all the advice.

Look closely for any damaged wires carefully.

 

[lcasada]

I put the car to top dead center and reset the timing today. I'll reassemble it all tomorrow and let you guys know what happens.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

I really appreciate it. Should the spark plugs be wet when cranking? Or, because its direction injection, do the plugs stay dry? I don't know If it's a fuel or spark issue.

Direct injection won't keep them dry. Spark and fuel are injected into the same hole (the cylinder). With port injection, it injects into the manifold. The fuel is still swirled around/atomized in the cylinder in both cases allowing it to get the plug wet.

 

[lcasada]

Thank you! The plugs have been bone dry. The rails, however, were full of fuel. I honestly think I had all the connections correct. Is it possible the timing was off, and preventing the injectors from spraying?

 

[Marty]

Have a look at this thread, he was off by one tooth and the car still started, ran like crap and threw codes but nevertheless, it "started" As far as your connections being "correct" as you say, they have to be, as the connectors are unique in that you can't normally connect it to the wrong connector and the harness is cut to length for that specific connector. If they are not completely squeezed together and locked you can have problems like I had.

Post Timing Chain issue

I recently replaced my timing chain and water pump on my 2012 SHO PP and now I have a really rough idle as well as a loud ticking from the back valve cover closest to the firewall. I did take it out for a spin and above 1000 RPM the car seems to run fine and then code p030 pop, which it misfire...

shoforum.com

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Thank you! The plugs have been bone dry. The rails, however, were full of fuel. I honestly think I had all the connections correct. Is it possible the timing was off, and preventing the injectors from spraying?

Timing should not control spray or no spray. It should control when. Provided you are getting a timing signal, you should get spark and fuel if everything is hooked up correctly. With no tach action, I would be looking at are the cams and crank rotating, are the sensors hooked up, are you getting a signal to the ECU. I would start with hooking up a good scan tool like ForScan and checking for codes and watching PIDS to see if you are getting RPM.

 

[lcasada]

I have a low end scanner and I'm able to see 200+ rpms while I'm trying to start the car. Is that sufficient?

 

[Ta2dResqr]

I have a low end scanner and I'm able to see 200+ rpms while I'm trying to start the car. Is that sufficient?

Any trouble codes?

 

[lcasada]

I finally got it put back together and now it has 3 open circuit fuel injector errors from 2,5, and 6. It runs, kinda, but barely.

 

[Marty]

What are the codes? And pull the plugs for 2,5 and 6 and see if they are wet with fuel.