Completed full 60k - remaining problems

[eminem3150]

I completed a full 60k - a water pump. (I believe it was replaced not very long ago)

I had put about 140 miles on the car so far and everything was running great. I decided to try mid-grade gasoline and after I left the gas station trouble started. I went home and shut off the car. The next time I go to start the car, it would start up and just die. So I start it and put my foot on the gas pedal lightly for 20 seconds and gradually release it and the car runs ok afterwards. It has been doing this frequently now. Is this just a coincidence or bad gas?

I flushed my radiator and a ton of rusty metal pieces came out. The car's temperature gauge runs in the middle now on average. I know its still in the normal range, however, it used to stay in the bottom 1/3rd. I thought this would improve the cooling of the system???

I am also concerned about the steam that blows out my exhaust pipe. What amount it considered normal? When I got the car, the old mufflers were rusted out and now I think I know why.

 

[eminem3150]

The only code is for the egr valve too. Its 332.

 

[itwonder]

Try doing the idle reset procedure, search old threads.

Check for a slightly loose hose clamp causing a minor pressure leak. Or perhaps flushing caused some junk to stick in the thermostat, or the cap is tired. Replace thermostat with AZ AZ Duralast 15878 – 180 degree or AZ Duralast 15879 – 192 degree and Felpro 35278 – Seal. Cheap enough and good thermostats. Replace cap with Motorcraft.

 

[eminem3150]

The car idled fine after the 60k. I will try the reset procedure, however.

I replaced the thermostat and cap during the 60k. Are you suggesting I do it again?

I pressure tested the system and it loses maybe a 1/4th of a psi over 5 minutes.

The car is starting and idling fine right now but I would like to know what the problem is. I hooked up a snap on scanner and the only value out of range was the IAC %. It was at 60% at startup and would creep down to 50% after the car reached normal operating temp. The scanner indicates it should be less than 40%.

 

[Brett]

CPS replaced in 60k?

 

[eminem3150]

Replaced and gapped CPS along with CID

 

[rubydist]

Steam normally comes out the tailpipe as a combustion byproduct. If you are not losing any coolant, then you have normal combustion steam exiting the tailpipe.

Your stalling problem could be caused by any number of issues: clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump, bad pressure regulator, dirty/bad injector(s), bad plug(s), bad wire(s), bad coil, bad DIS - you get the picture. many of these issue commonly will not set codes. :-( However, the symptoms you describe are more likely fuel related than ignition related, in my experience, which narrows that list down quite a bit.

When you say "full 60k" - did you do the valve cover gaskets, plugs, wires, etc. along with the front 60k work?

Did you do the koer test? If not, do that - it provides additional diagnostic information that may be helpful here.

 

[eminem3150]

Steam normally comes out the tailpipe as a combustion byproduct. If you are not losing any coolant, then you have normal combustion steam exiting the tailpipe.

Your stalling problem could be caused by any number of issues: clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump, bad pressure regulator, dirty/bad injector(s), bad plug(s), bad wire(s), bad coil, bad DIS - you get the picture. many of these issue commonly will not set codes. :-( However, the symptoms you describe are more likely fuel related than ignition related, in my experience, which narrows that list down quite a bit.

When you say "full 60k" - did you do the valve cover gaskets, plugs, wires, etc. along with the front 60k work?

Did you do the koer test? If not, do that - it provides additional diagnostic information that may be helpful here.

I replaced with a motorcraft fuel filter, autolite copper plugs, taylor 8.2mm wires, felpro valve cover gaskets, 2 timkin and the rear felpro cam seals, duralast cam sensor, duralast crank sensor, dayco timing belt, dayco serpentine belt, sho source intake vacuum lines, a working used IAC, timkin front main seal, duralast 180 degree thermostat, felpro intake manifold gaskets, and did a valve lash adjustment.

I skipped on the water pump. The O2 sensors have not been replaced either.

I checked fuel pressure with a gauge at the rail a couple weeks ago all the tests came out perfect. I also ran a KOER test and that was fine too. I checked my catalytic converters with a temp gun and one is around 400 degrees and the other (closest to the passenger side) about 300 degrees.

 

[sdpatt]

Copper plug? Autolite APP3924 double platinums would be a superior choice.

 

[rubydist]

I would swap the iac next. And, I'd use injector cleaner or some acetone (around 5 oz) in the gas for the next 3 tanks.

Have you checked the fuel pressure after you've had the problem, or was that before?

 

[jmpSHO]

I bet one of those duralast parts are your problem.

 

[eminem3150]

Copper plug? Autolite APP3924 double platinums would be a superior choice.

I took out a couple of my front plugs and they covered with carbon buildup. Does this indicate a rich condition?

 

[rubydist]

After only a few hundred miles, they should look like new.

The fact that they are carboned up suggests rich mixture, oil consumption problem, poor spark, or similar problems. I would look at all 6.

Are you having poor gas mileage? or significant oil consumption? If not, the new wires would be suspect to me. (fwiw, I have had better quality/durability from 'standard' wires than I have from 'performance' wires in the past 5 years...)

 

[eminem3150]

After only a few hundred miles, they should look like new.

The fact that they are carboned up suggests rich mixture, oil consumption problem, poor spark, or similar problems. I would look at all 6.

Are you having poor gas mileage? or significant oil consumption? If not, the new wires would be suspect to me. (fwiw, I have had better quality/durability from 'standard' wires than I have from 'performance' wires in the past 5 years...)

They fronts don't look like new. I will pull the back ones when I get a chance. I purchased the taylor 8.2s because shotimes recommended them.

If I replace the o2's, would it be a big mistake to go with 30$ densos?

 

[sdpatt]

Use a $3 double platinum as the engine was designed for.

 

[Bob Gervais]

Double plats are recommended due to the waste spark design of the DIS on our cars. I'd very highly doubt that the OP's issues are due to copper plugs. I've had copper plugs in my 92 for well over a year and probably 20k miles now with no issues.

 

[eminem3150]

Use a $3 double platinum as the engine was designed for.

I don't care about the cost of plugs. Are copper plugs not compatible with the engine?

 

[rubydist]

Copper plugs are fine, you just need to change them 4x as often as double platinums.

If you want help, you will need to answer our questions:

The fact that they are carboned up suggests rich mixture, oil consumption problem, poor spark, or similar problems. I would look at all 6 - what do each of them look like?

Are you having poor gas mileage? or significant oil consumption? If not, the new wires would be suspect to me.

 

[jmpSHO]

Probably a stupid question but did you check the gap on the plugs? I am pretty sure platimum comes pre gapped but copper you have to gap yourself.

 

[elarm1]

I bought an AZ cps and it lasted 3 months, got another AZ cps and no problems thus far...