Compition clutches?

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oneqwicksho

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Looking on getting a new clutch for my Sho and was wondering if anyone has used a compition clutch and if so are the worth the money? I'm planing on doing with the CC clutch or one from shosource. Before clutch I am going to replace the crankshaft due to timing gear wore the crank shaft down from crank cancer and can't get gear tight with all new parts. Thanks in advance
 

Phoenix

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If you are stock or near stock (or even "medium" modded) , go OEM. You will save money alot.

If you are seriously modded or plan to be , really soon , then maybe a clutchmasters CM1 (or 3) should be in order.

Note that the CM1 is almost twice the price. Plus it uses the same pressure plate as the OEM ones but reinforced.
 

oneqwicksho

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I'm planning on slow upgrades and I figure while I'm there mite as well spend the money and do it. Right and strong. I like the cm1 and also like the compition clutch and the CC clutch is less money wise, but at the same time want quality. Hey Phoenix my crank is wore down where the timing gear hoes, do you think there is a way to shim that or just replace the crank?
 

zach44102

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Southbend Stage II over here, Great clutch! I love it. But ill be switching to a stage 3 whevever i swap it out.
 

zach44102

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What's the key benefits of the 3.2 stronger internals?

3.2 = more displacement = moar TQ
As far as strength 3.2 rods are stronger then 3.0 (not by much IIRC)
everything els is the same, same stoke, just bigger bore.
 

jedhead

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Stock clutch or CM1 would be fine. Competition clutches are stiff and grabby and will make driving less pleasurable.

OEM pressure plate on the left. CM1 on the right.
Dsc 0008

The rivets and straps are larger and stronger on the Clutch Masters.

Bob
 

oneqwicksho

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How well will the cm1 hold up stickers only last about 3 years then go ******. Want something that will take a beating and not slip
 

AREA 91

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If I were you, I would purchase SHO NUT's HDPP, organic disc, and ceramic TOB.
 

AREA 91

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If I were you, I would purchase SHO NUT's HDPP, organic disc, and ceramic TOB.

What are we talking money wise

Use Loctite on Pressure Plate Bolts as per TSB 93-1-12
SHO NUT Heavy Duty Pressure plate and Clutchmasters custom organic disc by Clutchmasters w/CERAMIC TOB (HD straps and rivets, NO pressure plate mods) (no PP bolts, buy those below) FREE SHIPPING SNP-HDPPCKCU 490.00
 

auto.guru

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Do a search on Competition Clutches.... So many horror stories come up about the cheap quality and failure rate.

I went with a CM1, and love it. Grabs good, tight, and nearly no slippage. It was pretty expensive to order, but its survived 2 engines already :)
 

SHOisfun

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Hope you don't mind me jumping in. I'm rebuilding my 93 3.0 MTX and its time to replace the clutch. Any thoughts with a Fidanza flywheel and OEM clutch or do you need to go with a CM1. And, who has them. Thanks
 

AREA 91

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Hope you don't mind me jumping in. I'm rebuilding my 93 3.0 MTX and its time to replace the clutch. Any thoughts with a Fidanza flywheel and OEM clutch or do you need to go with a CM1. And, who has them. Thanks

You can use either a stock or stage I with the aluminum flywheel.
 

auto.guru

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if you havent drove a CM1 yet... let me say this quick....
CM1 doesnt slip. almost little to nothing. If you are a city driver then this blows because its nearly impossible to match a torque converter in gear w/o on the gas.

stock is nice to absorb that heat and slip a bit for city driving. you wont smell clutch and you dont have to hammer on the throttle at every green light just to get going.

plus, if you have a bad front motor mount - you WILL notice it with a CM1, as the motor mount will torque and give way before your clutch grabs, allowing for a CLUNK or slippage before your clutch grabs
 
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